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ENGINE Running LUMPY after Re-build!!! VVEL Acc


laytonanthony

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UPDATE!!

So today I stripped the top end and exposed both VVEL control shafts on bank 1 & 2. Was pretty straight forward and only took about. 1.5 hours.

Once rear plastics were removed the actuators were quite accessible which mad my life easier.

 

First thing I noticed once the actuator unit was removed was the amount of sealant the engine builder had used. one of the oil galleries were pretty much blocked which really hasn't give me much confidence in them one bit! Pic below.

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Also the central part of the sealed face should not have any sealant at all!!!!!!

My nest task was to clean up the actuator surfaces and the surfaces on the engine itself!

Now everything was clean I had to adjust the control shaft to the correct position.

looking at the engine from the front to back the low lift side is all the way to the LEFT! I turned the control shafts until they hit the stoppers. Set my magnetic angle gauge on the actuator arm and zeroed it. Them turned the control shaft RIGHT towards the large lift side until the gauge read 5.5 degree. Pic below

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I've now managed to align the actuators up manually, but before I put it all back together I'm waiting on confirmation to where the actuator shaft needs to be positioned. The internal actuator shaft comes pre-set from Nissan with a jig setting the angle and position on the shaft. ATM my actuators have moved and although lined up still maybe in the wrong place on the shaft itself. pic below

VVEL_alligned.jpg

 

Will post update once everything is set. But so far its pretty straight forward procedure! I think lol

Edited by laytonanthony
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UPDATE!

 

OK so today I managed to align the actuators manually by pulling and pushing on the shaft.

The actuator arm has 1x locator and 2x bolts which attach it to the VVEL control shaft. The easiest possible way I found to align everything was to set the actuator arm roughly in the centre of the shaft. Then set your control shaft at 5.5 degree of the small lift. Now move your angle gauge to another part of the shaft and zero it with the shaft set at 5.5degree. Any movement then you can move shaft back to zero. Offer the actuator up on the mounting plate onto the locators, then push your hands in in the back of the actuator push the actuator arm onto the control shaft. It will go on but now your working blind as you wont be able to see the 2x holes to screw alen key bolts in. Luckily bank 2 I hit first time :D . Took me 3x attempts on bank 1 though :wacko: . Once everything is aligned up remove the actuators, seal them and put then back on. I did one bank at a time, as its important to monitor the angle gauge as your tightening the 2x bolts into the control shaft. Obviously you need to hold the shaft with a spanner whilst you tighten. Any movement then its a case of turning the gauge to zero ;)

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So now everything has been put back and I am waiting on the consult cable to align the sensors to 0.500mv.

Apperntly you MUST set the sensors before any initial attemot to start the engine once shafts are set. If you attempt to start without doing this it will throw your timing all over the place on the VVEL.

Obviosuly mine was cranked alot when first put the engine back in without knowing anything about the VVEL sensors and the setting of the control shaft!. Even if the engine builder set the control shaft the engine was still cranked before we set the sensors. The sensors were set after we had cranked, which ultimatley timed the control shaft in enough to fire the engine.

Tomorrow hopefully i will have an update and the engine will be runing. If it doesnt work then it has to be an internal problem the engine builder has done! which i hope isnt the case!

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Tbh my patience is wearing very thin now lol. Tonight I've even been scouring the net for another engine. Few us companies got back to me and are able to ship so should be able to get a 30k mileage engine for 2.5k. I will pull mine and send it back to the engine builders and get them to rebuild it AGAIN! Really not confident in the builders having seen the sealant in the oil galleries, leaking sump, leaking coolant due to pinched o-ring. This time I'll be over seeing the build and checking it to the manual. Tbh I'm confident I could rebuild it myself but haven't the time. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow! ☺

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Edited by laytonanthony
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  • 6 years later...

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