laytonanthony Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Hi Guys Got engine back of engine builders and installed it back into the car today. Went in within a few hours. I have double checked every plug and every sensor on the engine 3 times over. Clutch has been bled, brakes been bled, Engine oiled, Gearbox oiled, checked all fuses, new spark plugs, new battery. EVERYTHING has been checked! Fired her up and she ran very lumpy, Idled on her own but was running on three cylinders! guessing the drivers side was running and passenger side wasn't! Read the fault codes and kept throwing up (P1090) which is RH VVEL actuator position sensor. After clearing codes and few attempts of starting threw another 2 codes up (P1092) LH VVEL actuator position sensor. (P2101) Throttle actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit range. Having scoured the internet and reading the engine manual it does STATE do not remove the actuators at any point! We did remove the RH actuator when we removed the engine but left the LH one on. It does state in the manual that the actuators need to be reset by Nissan as this will affect the timing. The link is here http://www.the370z.c...88485-vvel.html First of all does anyone have the software to do this mobile or is it main dealer. Also has anyone had similar problems. Thanks in advance. Edited June 24, 2015 by laytonanthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Ant, speak to Sly @ KaizerMotor tomorrow. If you need the Consult III, I have the cables, but you need the software installed on your laptop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Adrian Can you get me link to software and cables? thanks pal This manual tells you how to set the VVE Actuators. http://www.z-car.com/infiniti/m37x/EC.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 PM Zmanalex too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Adrian Can you get me link to software and cables? thanks pal This manual tells you how to set the VVE Actuators. http://www.z-car.com/infiniti/m37x/EC.pdf Here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xnissan+consult+3.TRS0&_nkw=nissan+consult+3&_sacat=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) UPDATE! Having rang Nissans Master technician in Cheltenham, (Steve) the guy wasn't very helpful at all and verged on the line of being quite arrogant.The guy literally did not want to help at all. His knowledge on the VQ37VHR engine seemed very limited and really couldn't answer any of my questions. So that ruled Nissan out! Having read about the VVEL Actuators and sensors, If any of these two parts are removed or disturbed they must be set to the right postion using Voltage readings from the ECM. The actuators control the shaft which then controls the eccentric cam at the back end of the engine so if these aren't set-up properly the engine will not run properly or if at al. NEVER REMOVE THESE INDIVIDUAL PARTS UNLESS ITS THE COMPLETE UNIT THEN YOUR SAFE!!! The Actuator sensor can be set using a multimeter on the ECM module (loom side in) and adjusting the sensor until the correct voltage reads in the manual. This deemed very fiddly and I lost my patience. This procedure can also be done using consult 3 software, then manually moving the sensors left and right until the correct voltage shows on the program. (500+-48) These sensors are VERY, VERY, VERY temperamental and the slightest of movement can knock the voltage out (even when tightening the 2x bolts for the sensors) Adrian has kindly offered to borrow me his consult 3 leads to perform the reset process of the VVEL actuators. He kindly posted the leads today recorded next day delivery so hopefully ill receive tomorrow to have a go at setting these up. Having spoken to quite a few Nissan 370z experts/gurus/mechanics over the last few days NOT one has ever come across this issue as they have NEVER disturbed the actuators or sensors. Ill keep logging my process as I am positive this thread will help others in the near future, Especially those who may have had a rebuilt engine for what ever reasons! Picture attached! Edited June 25, 2015 by laytonanthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 It strikes me that if its so difficult to get right you could buy a complete unit from Alex and save yourself a lot of grief? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Not really. Even if I can't program my existing actuator I would still need to program the new one. Costs nothing to try and program mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Picture of the complete actuator setup in case anybody ever needs to remove them. You can remove them but the whole unit which is pictured below. The sensor as you can see adjusts left-right to set the timing up. Leads will arrive tomorrow so fingers crossed she fires up :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) OK guys I've now managed to get consult 3 talking to my car to set the actuators. The one actuate B1 was reading 4.365V and the other B2 was reading 0.567V. Now the manual states to set the sensors at this value Voltage : 500 ± 48 mV which has stumped me. I'm no auto technician so any help I would be very grateful Ant Edited June 27, 2015 by laytonanthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 ENGINE RUNNING!!! Ok Guys after reading the VVEL sensors Voltage and scratching my head to why I couldn't get B1 VVEL sensor to 0.500v I removed it and put it the other way with the plug facing down (opposite to the other sensor). Re-ran consult 3 and was then able to set the sensor. Both sensors were set to 0.494 as I literally couldn't get any closer. Its within the 0.48mv so was fine. Fired her up a few times and with a bit of pedal She ran and idled. Problem i got now is that the throttle response takes a few seconds to respond, wont rev over 3500 RPM, the engine just drops out as if its trying to protect itself. Main thing so far is that there is no knocks or bang from the engine and sounds sweet on idle. Any advice on setting it up would be very helpful. On another note the VVEL actuators if they are removed CAN be reset!!!!!! the manual says to replace once removed!!! This isn't the case obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 info here mate in the last post that may be of use. Sorry if you have already found this just trying to offer some help http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/88485-vvel.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Bit more info here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 UPDATE!! Engine will start and seems to idle OK but accelerator response is very bad, also wont rev over 3500 RPM and that struggles with floor to the floor. Car is in limp mode. Done a code check on ECU with consult3 and threw back: P0011: INT/V TIM CONT-B1 P0021: INT/V TIM CONT-B2 I'm now investigating these codes so any advice or experience with these codes will be greatly appreciated. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 looks like I got my work cut out lol :wacko: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 UPDATE, OK I think I've found the problem. 2 gaskets which fail. Not to be reused once removed. Clearly my engine builder did. The gaskets blow cause drop in oil pressure. Common on early Zeds with high mileage. Mine were disturbed hence the problems. Post here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/256290-infiniti-consumer-affairs-poor-experience-10.html#post3773774 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 UPDATE!! So having literally stripped the car down for the 3rd time! YES 3RD TIME!! i have now managed to remove the dreaded P011 and P021 codes by replacing both oil gallery gaskets and a new Oil pump. Re-timed the engine and put her back together. Car fired fist time but again STILL in limp mode and cannot rev past 3500 rpm. Throttle very unresponsive as-well. Put my code reader back on the car and come back with no fault codes. Now this got me scratching my head. I have been in touch with a Nissan technician in the states via a forum. He read my thread from start to finish and asked if my engine builder "timed" my VVEL actuators in? I said I wasn't aware. Basically the VVEL actuator that controls the VVEL control shaft come pre-set at 5.5 degree from the small lift. new actuators have a plastic stop which is pre-set at that angle then its just a case of turning the control shaft to the small lift then back 5.5 degree to line up. EASY!! Problem is that my actuators have been removed and disturbed and put back any old how! One could be at 4 degree and an other at 7 degree (who knows). Called Nissan up for a price on the actuators to make my life a little easier and they quoted me £1,700.13p + VAT!!! I think if were there id of chinned the guy lol! so a grand total of £4,080.00!!! Looks I am manually adjusting them! So basically now I need to set the control shaft manually with a digital angle gauge, zero it and move towards the big lift side 5.5 degree. Once shaft is locked in place I now need to manually adjust the actuator the line up with the shaft, in stead of the opposite way round. Once aligned then adjust the actuator sensors closes to 0.500v on consult to fine tune them. Been told by the technician there is a certain way to do the first fire up to not disturbed the alignment. This is apparently in the manual but i am yet to find it. Just waiting on this information before I begin the procedure. I will document the entire procedure for future reference on 370's as no doubt when the high mileage zeds start coming along this with be vital information! Stay tuned! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Nightmare hope you get it sorted soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Nightmare hope you get it sorted soon Its relativity straight forward but if I could just locate those 2x plastic holding jigs and adjust the actuator to them its literally just a case of turning the shaft back from the small lift to line up and bolt it up!!!! Cant find them for sh%$!!! posted on the American forum to see if anybody has any lying around lol. I've come this far though on my own so I wont let it beat me! Another way is to pull a set of a scrap engine, remove rocker cover, set the shaft to the right position then lock of the actuator and remove it! :wacko: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) Ant, just remembered about your text message, sorry about the delay, I'll look into it tonight. Have a look here if it helps: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/88485-vvel.html http://www.370z.com/MagazineArticles/tabid/57/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/57/PageID/198/Nissans-370Z-VQ37VHR-Cylinder-Head-and-VVEL-Continually-Variable-Cam-Timing-Technology-Technological-Terror-or-Performance-Breakthrough.aspx Edited October 14, 2015 by octet@TORQEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Nightmare hope you get it sorted soon Its relativity straight forward Id hate to see what you call complicated Immense effort though, and fascinating reading, keep up the good work (that Im never even going to contemplate doing myself) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 When I first looked at the task ahead it looked very daunting I was in no rush to get the car back as I bought another (convertible). For me now the obvious choice would of been to replace the engine, but they were 5k plus at the time and so far the rebuild has been around the 3k mark. Obviously its a learning curve as well. I think after I finally get it running there will be not a part of the VQ37VHR engine I haven't covered, making me very clued up on the 370's lol. Also I have been given a contact for someone in the US about getting hold of the actuator holding jiggs. Fingers crossed i can get my hand on a pair which will make my life sooo much easier! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laytonanthony Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Link to every section of the manual if the 370z. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-370z-factory-service-manuals.html Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Nicoclub stuff is awesome but remember they are also US cars so a lot of wiring stuff is different and multi plugs are different; The Motor is the same thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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