Selah83 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hello a few months ago I posted a help thread about Cam position sensors as my 350z decided to break bank 1.. the update since then.. in a nutshell I replaced both CPS, Crank Sensor.. no luck Timing chain was VERY stretched, replaced.. no luck My Carbonetics Flywheel was damaged, missing teeth, replaced, no luck so now the car cranks, fires (as long as foot is on the gas) and if held on gas actually runs, however remove the gas.. it dies. (doesn't fire everytime) the 350 has had new sparks too.. it seems as if the spark is erratic and when shes running only one side of the exhaust gets hot. Not sure what the next step is, the ECU isn't throwing up any more codes however she has got a piggyback Haltech on board. Any ideas???? cheers folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Take the piggyback off, see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) doesn't fire at all n.b cranks still.. but definitely no spark Edited June 20, 2015 by Selah83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Well, at least we can rule out the piggyback then. Bad earth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 There's a lot of wires in their 😆 may take a while to find a bad earth 😠Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkmatt Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 it seems as if the spark is erratic and when shes running only one side of the exhaust gets hot. Have you tracked the cold exhaust side back? That should give you the bank that's not firing properly which will at least narrow it down to one half of the engine. If you're sure it's weak/intermittent spark it could be coils but that should throw up a code I'd have thought. It could be injectors too which would fit with you having to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) We think it's the passenger side (bank 1?) that's not firing, hopefully going to get in their and check all the wires and plugs make sure we didn't leave anything off when fitting the CPS back their. Any other ideas would be most helpful.. been off the road 6 months, starting to get grumpy with it! Edited June 22, 2015 by Selah83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 unlikely to be the cause but it might help to at least top it up with some fresh petrol, it degrades (octane level drops) and I have read it only really has a shelf life of 6 weeks (just a thought) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Not a bad idea, I last put petrol in it in March.. i'll do that anyway as there isn't really that much in! - Jerry Can ahoy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Looks like Keyser's old ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 There's a very good reason for that... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINKJ Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 There's a very good reason for that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Tried asking Keyser? He knows the car inside out, surely he has clues what could cause it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Yeah, a friend of mine (where my car is currently held up) has spoken to Keyser.. Problem is, the ECU is literally hardwired, so taking the ECU off would mean i'd need a new one.. What i really need to know is if the ECU is actually the issue, and how would I know if it's fried? or if most of the problem's we are having are down to electronics/sparks/coils/injectors under the hood. Annoying is a word i'm using a lot and I don't wanna give up on it just yet. This whole thing started with a CPS.. and was so easy to replace haha When bought the car, i had a full head of brown hair, I now have half a head of grey Ah well, i'm sure we'll find the issue, but any other input is most welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Hey Quick update (haven't had chance to put petrol in yet) however we've inspected the coils and sparks under start-up, and it seems as if the coils/sparks have a mind of their own, there is no sequence to spark they just go off when the feel like it :/ erratic to say the least Here's some pics of the wiring around the ECU - I'm not good with electronics so for me this is like looking into the abyss And this is what i've been reduced too - looking at it on a ram, the same place its been for the last 4 months :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkmatt Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 What do the green and blue wires connect to? Looks aftermarket and a bit haphazardly done to me. If your right hand bank is fine then you could try swapping the coils from that bank with the ones on the left. If they still work intermittently, that would rule out coils as the issue. See if you can trace the earth for that bank of coils as it may be damaged/not earthing properly. One final thing, it's a long shot, but have you checked the coil plugs are connected to the right coil? If they're connected in the wrong order, it could give those symptoms. Good luck finding the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks Shark, I'm back in garage on Saturday so going to check all the sparks and coils again, because I've been messing around with the CPS on bank one I think I may have touched or moved something important. The other thing I wanted to ask about is the Throttle body, i've had it off the car a few times, is it possible that's caputt? and the value is stuck shut?? thanks again n.b not sure what the green and blue wires connect to! however I know that Keyser installed interior green leds and and wiring for underbody lighting too, so maybe for them? Edited June 25, 2015 by Selah83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkmatt Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Thanks Shark, I'm back in garage on Saturday so going to check all the sparks and coils again, because I've been messing around with the CPS on bank one I think I may have touched or moved something important. The other thing I wanted to ask about is the Throttle body, i've had it off the car a few times, is it possible that's caputt? and the value is stuck shut?? thanks again n.b not sure what the green and blue wires connect to! however I know that Keyser installed interior green leds and and wiring for underbody lighting too, so maybe for them? Throttle body being stuck is possible but unlikely I'd have thought. Does it rev when you depress the accelerator pedal? If it does, it's not the throttle body. I'd double check all your plug connections using a diagram and pm Keyser to see if he knows what the random wires do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Doesn't Rev at all - depressing the accelerated keeps engine running at like 600 / 800 rpm.. however checked the throttle body and it is opening when pedal depressed so looking unlikey it's that causing the issue! Checked all the coil wiring and there all in the right place, also sounds as if its mis-firing when it is running.. .. no closer it seems to getting the bitch back on the road :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Aside from the electronics, you've replaced two things that could have resulted in valve and ignition timing being out - is it worth checking the valve timing? and are you sure the flywheel has been put on correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 (edited) Yeah i'm fairly certain the flywheel installation was done correctly, as i know we had to take out as wasn't aligned correctly the first time. However after spending the night in the workshop I re-checked all the sparks.. the ECU is fine, the TB opens and closes - the CEL is on but no codes.. Still backfires, pops and runs very very very rough with foot on gas still.. Definitely feels like a bank of sparks/coils/injectors isn't working... I don't think the chain has been timed up with the cam properly.. I heard highly modified engines even 2mm out will cause issues? Anyway! i'm unfortunately now looking at other options for the bitch as i'm out of time, money & patience and the wife has started with some nice ultimatums too thanks again for all the help Edited June 26, 2015 by Selah83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 (edited) Just had a brainwave... maybe someone can point me in the right direction here.... Tomei Procams + Haltech Platinum Pro... so its vari-cam?? now i've got a new chain on and it's all aligned will i need a re-tune on the haltech? hmm Edited June 26, 2015 by Selah83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 So you've put new cams on, but didn't get it remapped? Silly question, are you sure the chain is aligned correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selah83 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 No their the original cams, The chain i'm certain was aligned correctly (although i'm no pro).. , saw the marks on the chains line up the notches on the gears :/, is it possible in the map on the haltech i need to change the cam position? to be honest the only thing I haven't done since all the work has been done is plugged the laptop in, is it possible that with the battery being on and off a billion times that the haltech will need the map reloading? - Mind boggle, this is why i work in marketing rather than in a mechanics workshop, although right now I should actually be doing some work rather than googling Haltech lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Gotcha. If you've not changed the cams at all, and the chain is lined up, then there should be no need to redo the map. However, checking the map is still on there would seem a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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