Dicky Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Well got my new DAS6 Pro plus and PolishedBliss soft paint kit and had my first go. Bit disappointed as there didn't appear much differance after I'd finished. It did look a little shinyer but I supposed Gunmetal doesn't show the same level of improvement as Black. Anyway I've got a couple of questions for you seasoned guys. 1) I seasoned the Tangerine pad with polish before I started. Is this necessary or can you spray a little water on it instead ( as seen on YouTube vids) 2) having put the three spots of polish on the pad how far will that go ie should it do a full bonnet (I applied it three times and did the bonnet in three sections) 3)Can the sponge pads be washed in soapy water ie a bucket of water and a little washing up liquid) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinyflier Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 You should still get a good quality finish on your GM - here is a picture of mine after I used my DAS6 on it. I use Lake Country pads and Menzerna polishing compound and do pretty much what you describe. I initially spritz the pad with a mist of water, three large(ish) pea size drops of compound. Maybe you aren't using enough pressure or aren't polishing long enough? You wont do a bonnet on one pass though - I'd probably have mentally sectioned mine into at least 6 sections with fresh compound applied on each section and polish until you end up with an overall almost oily haze. Then a light buff off with microfibre and glaze/seal on top. David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 1. Always prep the pad with a spray or two of QD. 2. So hard to say, you basically work the polish until it breaks down. With some it takes ages (or if you put a lot on), some break down quickly if the speed is too high, but really I'd expect to use about 4-6 goes on a bonnet. You're doing it right though, it's better to use multiple passes than go all-in and wreck the paint. Not that you really can with a DAS, but you know what I mean. 3. When they're falling apart, bin them. Otherwise, don't worry too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) You should still get a good quality finish on your GM - here is a picture of mine after I used my DAS6 on it. I use Lake Country pads and Menzerna polishing compound and do pretty much what you describe. I initially spritz the pad with a mist of water, three large(ish) pea size drops of compound. Maybe you aren't using enough pressure or aren't polishing long enough? You wont do a bonnet on one pass though - I'd probably have mentally sectioned mine into at least 6 sections with fresh compound applied on each section and polish until you end up with an overall almost oily haze. Then a light buff off with microfibre and glaze/seal on top. David's Thanks David. I did get a decent shine (not quite as good as your pics) but was probably expecting a black car type result. Your right I didn't put much pressure on nor did I polish for two long (2 passes) because I wasn't taking any chances of doing damage. Next time I'll polish for longer as my confidence grows. I used the a Tangerine pad and the PF 2400 so not much Polishin power for the time I spent....you live and learn! How about cleaning the pads do you wash them in soapy water or use some special cleaning fluid? Edited June 3, 2015 by Dicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 You don't need to clean them. Put them on your DAS, run the machine at low speed, and then use a toothbrush from inside to out in one movement to remove any cloggy mess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 You don't need to clean them. Put them on your DAS, run the machine at low speed, and then use a toothbrush from inside to out in one movement to remove any cloggy mess. So that's what the little brush I got in the kit is used for. I thought the company I bought the kit from knew I was loosing my hair and put it in the box to use instead of a comb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 On my GM, I find it hard to spot finer defects (which is great in so many ways) but every time I pulled up at a petrol station at night, they popped right out of the paint under the lights. If you're not sure you're making a difference perhaps a light might be helpful? Not one of the mental £600 super lights, but I picked this up to help find them and check progress http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F9ZH4O6 I'd love to have a properly lit indoor space.. This less expensive option was recommended too, http://www.amazon.co.uk/SecurityIng®-Zoomable-Adjustable-Flashlight-Waterproof/dp/B00BJESR3S/ref=sr_1_6?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1405028064&sr=1-6&keywords=zoomable+torch but it appears to be out of stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Wash the pads out after you're finished for the day (hot, soapy water then just knead the pad with your thumb until it's clean) or when the pad gets too clogged with spent polish - simply switch pads if you're not finished, that's why the kit includes 2 of each. Ekona is referring to spurring the pad in between sections, you should do that regularly throughout the polishing process to remove spent polish from the pad and you'll get more consistent results. You say you're using the tangerine pad and 203S which is the combination with most cut. For more gloss, do a few passes on a section with 85RE on the crimson pad - less cut, more gloss - and see how that comes up. By a few passes, I mean work the polish properly until it's gone completely clear at speed 4-5, a section is about 18x18 inches. Your other question about priming the pad with water, there are many ways to prime the pad and a spritz of water or QD is one of them, but which to use is entirely your choice really, there is no one, definitive best method. Although use either water or polish to prime, no need for both. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Never knew it was called spurring, every day is a school day 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Never knew it was called spurring, every day is a school day There's probably a dozen other terms for it to be fair, but spurring was the term I've been taught. I just wanted to highlight the difference between "in use" pad cleaning and "f**k it, I'm giving up for the day" pad cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Wash the pads out after you're finished for the day (hot, soapy water then just knead the pad with your thumb until it's clean) or when the pad gets too clogged with spent polish - simply switch pads if you're not finished, that's why the kit includes 2 of each. Ekona is referring to spurring the pad in between sections, you should do that regularly throughout the polishing process to remove spent polish from the pad and you'll get more consistent results. You say you're using the tangerine pad and 203S which is the combination with most cut. For more gloss, do a few passes on a section with 85RE on the crimson pad - less cut, more gloss - and see how that comes up. By a few passes, I mean work the polish properly until it's gone completely clear at speed 4-5, a section is about 18x18 inches. Your other question about priming the pad with water, there are many ways to prime the pad and a spritz of water or QD is one of them, but which to use is entirely your choice really, there is no one, definitive best method. Although use either water or polish to prime, no need for both. It's getting a bit confusing, what with the PF 2400 also called PO203 and SF 4000 also know as PO 106. My brain hurts. Is 85RE the same as SF 4000? If so I'll try applying that tomorrow to see if the shine improves. Don't get me wrong the shine is there but when your not seeing swirls disappearing before your very eyes, your level of excitement wanes a bit The water primiming seems to be a good idea as the main reason for doing it seems to be to prevent burning, so why waste polish I tried the brush cleaning method on the pad I used and it did seem to cause a lot of dust to fly off (dusting my nice clean car I should add) also tried the towel clean but the pad had stood a while and it may be more effective during detailing. Anyway ONWARD AND DOWNWARD I always say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Yes, Menz are forever changing their numbering systems - PF2400 = 203S and SF4000 = 85RE. Sorry for the confusion. If it's the correction that you're not getting, i.e. you're left with swirls, then stick with the PF2400/203S on the tangerine pad but work it for longer - you should be spending a good two or three minutes on each section, but basically just keep at it until you start to see some correction. Also, it may seem like you're not getting anywhere if you're doing a whole panel at once rather than in sections when actually you're just getting consistent, albeit insufficient, correction across the panel so the small gains you're getting aren't as evident. Have a read through the bottom section of this, "Step by Step Guide - How To Polish Your Paint Safely And Effectively By Machine" before having another go and see if there's anything there that you're not doing/doing differently and go from there. Regarding the dust, always do it away from the car and never underestimate just how far a machine polisher will sling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks Mr ilogikal1 once again for your help, and I'll take your advice. No I haven't read the guide above Ive been reading lots of bits nd pieces about which pad does what, what the provided polishes do and polishing techniques (all of which have variations in how to approach the job). Unfortunately the link doesn't seem to work on my iPad. If you wouldn't mind having another go I'd appreciate it. One more question if you don't mind....having been over the car with say PF2400 (203s) are you supposed to then wax the car (to give it some protection)with the 85RE or do you use ordinary wax polish. I've seen a YouTube vid showing the guy spraying on what appeared to be a wax finish coat then polishing it with a microfibre cloth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Knowing Matt it'll be from PB http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/what-does-polishing-do.html# Scroll down to the bottom and it's there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Cheers young man, I'll give it a read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinyflier Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks Mr ilogikal1 once again for your help, and I'll take your advice. No I haven't read the guide above Ive been reading lots of bits nd pieces about which pad does what, what the provided polishes do and polishing techniques (all of which have variations in how to approach the job). Unfortunately the link doesn't seem to work on my iPad. If you wouldn't mind having another go I'd appreciate it. One more question if you don't mind....having been over the car with say PF2400 (203s) are you supposed to then wax the car (to give it some protection)with the 85RE or do you use ordinary wax polish. I've seen a YouTube vid showing the guy spraying on what appeared to be a wax finish coat then polishing it with a microfibre cloth? I never used wax on mine - preferring simply to use Autofinesse Tough Coat sealant as final layer. Lately I've gone over to using Fusso Soft 99 which is easy to apply, gives a lovely finish and seems pretty durable. As in all things to do with detailing we all have our individual preferences so my way is only ONE way not the ONLY way! David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Knowing Matt it'll be from PB http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/what-does-polishing-do.html# Scroll down to the bottom and it's there. That's the one. Cheers Stu Regarding waxing after polishing, in short yes. Buy as above it doesn't have to be a wax, you can use a sealant or coating. What you've seen on youtube is likely to be either a spray wax or spray sealant - spray on, wipe off. Edited June 4, 2015 by ilogikal1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Thanks again guys. I've just got in and am have started reading the info provided above. You do realise I'm soon going to be a cleaver as you lot don't you. I'll look into those products you mention Tineyflier Edit: How often do you do detailing. As I mentioned earlier gun metal doesn't seem to show swirl marks so don't have a visual indication of when it needs doing. Also there must be a point when you have to stop before you break through the clear coat (see already using the right terminology) ha ha Edited June 4, 2015 by Dicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I'll aim to polish no more than twice a year. I'm actually even trying to cut that down to once during the summer prep and using a filler glaze any other time. But if it doesn't need it, it's not worth the effort let alone the paint depth conundrum. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinyflier Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I'll aim to polish no more than twice a year. I'm actually even trying to cut that down to once during the summer prep and using a filler glaze any other time. But if it doesn't need it, it's not worth the effort let alone the paint depth conundrum. I only do mine once a year - is harder work as you get older...! David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Tell me about it David! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Looks great. Keep the good work up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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