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Bearing Grades from crankshaft HELP!!!!


laytonanthony

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Hi Guys

 

Need some help figuring out what bearing grades i need to re-build my nissan engine.

I have stripped the engine and removed the crank as its no good. I have now received my new crank.

My new Cranks markings are below and below that the diagram to get the bearing grades.

Im having trouble understanding the chart to determine which grade bearings I need. If someone could

be of any help i would be very much grateful. :teeth::)

 

New Crankshaft stamps

 

EMMKN

FEHHHH

 

K= Identification number

M=Journal diameter grade no.1

M=Journal diameter grade no.2

K=Journal diameter grade no.3

N=Journal diameter grade no.4

 

F= Pin diameter grade no. 1

E= Pin diameter grade no. 2

H= Pin diameter grade no. 3

H= Pin diameter grade no. 4

H= Pin diameter grade no. 5

H= Pin diameter grade no. 6

 

Connecting Rods stamps

 

Cylinder 1= 0E5U - G11E

Cylinder 2= 0E5U - G22E

Cylinder 3= 0E5U - H33H

Cylinder 4= 0E5U - J44E

Cylinder 5= 0E5U - L55E

Cylinder 6= 0E5U - L66E

 

 

 

 

 

 

VQHRVHRRodBearingGrades.jpg

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Ok

I was getting confused as that diagram only shows you how to find the Big end bearing grades and not the main bearing grades.

First 4 digits are for main bearing grades (MMKN) but I need to remove the head to find the other marks on top of the block too match up the main bearings.

 

This chart basically matches up the Connecting rod diameter with the crank shaft journal.

 

So with

 

Crank markings F E H H H H

rod markings G G F J L L

grades on chart 1 1 2 2 2 2

 

Just matched them up to get the grades.

 

Is that right?

Edited by laytonanthony
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Why not just measure each journal and big end then order some ACL bearings to suit the desired gap? Slight polish of the crank if needed to get them all even. Then plasti gauge to check its all good.

Edited by evilscorp
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My best advice is to hire an experienced engine builder, otherwise I guess that this may all end in tears.

 

It is not rocket science however you do require a considerable level of build experience to carry out the build properly.

 

If the crank was not bent then why did you not just get it turned at a machine shop ?

 

Alex. :)

Edited by ZMANALEX
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The Engine is at the engine builders!!! He is a friend of mine so I am helping strip it apart to save on the pennies!!! I removed the engine myself as well and plan on putting it back in as well. The crank was bent and could not be machined!

TBH I genuinely think I could re-build it myself but again not worth the risk!

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