jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 So ive got 255 on the fronts and it looks pretty close for the tyre and the upper control arm (I think that's what it is) it free wheels fine in a straight line and on full lock and also took it round the block and couldnt hear any rubbing noises and the tyres hadnt scuffed on the trip when I came back and checked. Question is under heavier loads will the tyre expand and rub it?? or is it enough to cause a problem? will going down to 245 solve the problem though will only buy me another 5mm on the inside or shall I add a shim?? Any input appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I run 245 on the front, no problem, tyres expand when there hot so it very well could rub mate it's very close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 If its not rubbing .......... Not sure i can see its going to rub?! If you're worried about it , perhaps run a 3mm spacer / shim ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Oh I run 255 tyres on the front as well ..... But it's the wheel offset that you really want to be looking at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 thanks guys its the closest ive seen maybe a shim is the way to go as the inside rim itself is pretty close so im sure just putting 245 on it will still see it fairly close, are there any branded shims or shims that are better to use than others? would 3mm be ok or shall i go 5mm just to be safe? Funny thing is I was worried about brembos rubing and there is bags of room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I think 3mm is the max you want to be going on the standard bolt length .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Why not just put up your wheel specs/details or look on rimtuck.com to compare what everyone else is running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I dont think anyone else is running my setup 19 inch GTR rear et20 275/35/19 10j 18 inch GTR fronts (which is actually the 19 inch rear GTR) 255/40/18 9.5j im not 100% sure on the offset of the new fronts I think they are et30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I dont think anyone else is running my setup 19 inch GTR rear et20 275/35/19 10j 18 inch GTR fronts (which is actually the 19 inch rear GTR) 255/40/18 9.5j im not 100% sure on the offset of the new fronts I think they are et30 The ones you have on the front (I see your typo ~ should say: "which are actually the 18" rear GTR" I'm guessing) should be ET30 from what I understand. From Tarmac Sportz... 8.5 Fronts 9.5 Rears 5 x114 Stud Pattern With 30mm Offsets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) well spotted GM thanks, yes i meant 18s, thats the one so they are ET 30 removing the spacer has brought the front back in line though so its really close either way, im going to try the 3mm shim and see if that gives better clearance, is it ok to get one from Halfords?? its that or ebay cant seem to find any branded ones Edited April 30, 2015 by jumping350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevoD Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I'm running 18x9.5 et15 255/40/18 upfront no issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Seems my ET is the problem then if your ok Stevo, at least I dont have to change the tyres now im going to stick out the arches I think with the smallest size spacer which I believe is 15mmm? so it looks like 3mm is all I can do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevoD Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I am lowered on coilovers to fyi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Word of warning about the Halfords 3mm shims, which I used (+20mm eibachs) on the 370 and due to the soft alloy they distorted and led to the front discs getting distorted buggering up smooth braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Thanks Colin, Ive seen that in a few posts now and linked to your thread, rare rims do a shim that bit more expensive but looks like will be hassle free on the distortion front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 If you just want to eye it up, just use some big washers, but obviously don't drive it like that... at least then you'll know what 1,2,3,4,5 (etc) mm spacings look like, without spending ££ in Halfrauds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 thanks commander, that is an idea, though 3mm is the most I can go I believe as any longer and there wont be enough thread left on the stud for the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 studs / bolts / spacers - all much cheaper than tyres / wheels... just do whatever you need to get the wheels / tyres in - if you need longer bolts (or whatever) then don't skimp - they're '"fairly" important in keeping you safe after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Just buy longer wheel studs and use a 5mm spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 (edited) Thanks for input guys il have a look into getting the right bolts etc to replace Edited May 1, 2015 by jumping350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Just say this. There's no problem there Darryl. You can get a 5mm hubcentric spacer if it will make you sleep well but just think about it. The wheel is attached at the lower end of that spindle which expands as the hub and the upper part of that spindle attaches to the front UCA (looks like a boomerang) 1-The UCA only moves upper and down with the spindle so the wheel can never touch it. 2-The LCAs(translink/banana) allow the wheel and there for spindle to move upper and down too and to a degree front to back to allow for bump. So ion effect the wheel and spindle are married and will always describe the same movement arc in a constant ration to each other and can never touch. The expansion is negligible as the wheel is a big heat sink to get her with the spindle itself and the other gobbins linked to them. It will never get hot enough to bridge the gap. I can work out the physic if needed. Off course the caveat to this is if you put a wheel with too much +ve ET in the first place that there is only 1-2mm between or outright interference then that would most likely be an issue. . From my experience you would need a wheel with an ET 40 and above. Looking at the pics you got at least a good cm of clearance. The clearance between by spl UCA ball joint but and tyre is about the same and never touch on road or track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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