dajw Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 I'm looking into the frozenboost. Going to see Nic's install, hopefully a peek at the White 370 at Horsham tomorrow and see if I can get a really solid fit. That's a heavy item and I'm not having it mounted with any play or vibration, as aluminium will fatigue and fail if there's wobble... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Oh no, here we go, physics degree kicking in again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Drama queens, man up! Says Mr 2000 mile then strip it over there 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Drama queens, man up! Says Mr 2000 mile then strip it over there It was bloody intense and only done to prove it can be done, the first ever 370z TT in Europe Saying that, I'm not modding the GT-R... I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 No don't I won't be doing it again love mine but I was always a leave it stock type of guy the bank ballance preferred it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Quite a line-up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Oh I miss my zed !!! Did you manage to look at johns car with regards to the frozen boost ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Oh I miss my zed !!! Did you manage to look at johns car with regards to the frozen boost ? I did indeed. That Stillen fascia is quite vicious, and not really to my taste though. Prefer my sort of sleeper look. Reggie is fine at the moment since the ECU reset, probably went into a safe map after detecting some knock in the hot weather. Booked in for Aug 3rd to move the oil cooler, and either install a second stillen cooler in serial or go bespoke and fabricate a cooler that *will* fit in the space available. Also to divide off the airflow from the oil cooler and the intakes. It looks like the pulley is shagged, so will see about a replacement under warranty or order one direct from SCOL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) D'oh. The pulley in question is a 7-rib idler which is from the motor, it is moved to this new position during the installation of the supercharger. Perhaps it doesn't like the heat up there. I wonder where to order an idler from? The supercharger installation instructions show on page 12, step 9: "Remove the 7rib idler in photo 17.Keep it as it will be installed onto the supercharger assembly later." Then on page 18, step 11: "Install the 7 rib idler removed earlier onto the blower plate using the supplied spacer and hardware. Reinstall the lower idler. (photo 38)" Edited July 15, 2015 by dajw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yes I think the 370z stillen front bumper is pretty ugly also I have a spare stillen cooler if you need it ...... Actually Nic has it at the moment but could easily be sent to you if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) Yes I think the 370z stillen front bumper is pretty ugly also I have a spare stillen cooler if you need it ...... Actually Nic has it at the moment but could easily be sent to you if needed Yep you can have a choice of 2 dom lol Sorry josh completely forgot to send this back your way budy Dom what's happend to the pully I've read about the stillen pullys failing some guy said he'd changed for all alloy ones I really thought about the two options your exploring on the cooling and think your probly best off getting something that will go in hassle free for sure Edited July 15, 2015 by nissanman312 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) I personally wouldn't wan to run 2 rads , when a good one should do to job ....... Mayb get the oil cooler moved as you say and see how that affects it all . Nic- I forgot to send you my address anyway ! No worries Edited July 15, 2015 by Bodyboarder81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I personally wouldn't wan to run 2 rads , when a good one should do to job ....... Mayb get the oil cooler moved as you say and see how that affects it all . Nic- I forgot to send you my address anyway ! No worries I don't think moving the cooler will help a lot as far as the charge temps go after running with and without the shroud it didn't make a scrap of difference Our issue in the manifold on the engine soaking all the heat of the engine and there's not a lot you can do about that All we can do is run the bigger cooler to help things the cause of the problem really is that manifold just can't get rid of the heat quick enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 I personally wouldn't wan to run 2 rads , when a good one should do to job ....... Mayb get the oil cooler moved as you say and see how that affects it all Agreed Josh — Jez said he has a contact that can fab them to order. We'll move the coolers about, free up some space, measure up and get something in that keeps the clean look of the car (whilst actually taking some heat out of the system). Nic — I hever had much in the way of problems with heat before I had the oil cooler. Before, if it was a baking hot day and I was sitting in traffic then it would ping a little at light load but as soon as I moved off this would clear, so the cooling was working fine. That oil rad is just McD's apple pie hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I personally wouldn't wan to run 2 rads , when a good one should do to job ....... Mayb get the oil cooler moved as you say and see how that affects it all Agreed Josh — Jez said he has a contact that can fab them to order. We'll move the coolers about, free up some space, measure up and get something in that keeps the clean look of the car (whilst actually taking some heat out of the system). Nic — I hever had much in the way of problems with heat before I had the oil cooler. Before, if it was a baking hot day and I was sitting in traffic then it would ping a little at light load but as soon as I moved off this would clear, so the cooling was working fine. That oil rad is just McD's apple pie hot. Yep I feel you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 …I don't think moving the cooler will help a lot as far as the charge temps go after running with and without the shroud it didn't make a scrap of difference… I don't mean the shroud, I actually mean fabricating a divider to partition the airflow into a clean, cold air side for the intake, and a radiators side for the oil, intercooler, power steering etc. I understand that the shroud you mention to address turbulence around the MAFs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Yeah but the shroud is still a phisical deflector in essence between the cooler and filters Any way look forward to seing what you come up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren-B Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Personally I reckon your heat/det issues are due to the poor design of the stillen kit, the maf's are reading intake temps before the charger & water/air intercooler, so the ecu cannot compensate for fluctuations in intake temps, I'd be spending my money having a couple of temp sensors made to thread into the intake manifold after the cooler matrix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Personally I reckon your heat/det issues are due to the poor design of the stillen kit, the maf's are reading intake temps before the charger & water/air intercooler, so the ecu cannot compensate for fluctuations in intake temps, I'd be spending my money having a couple of temp sensors made to thread into the intake manifold after the cooler matrix. This is what mine has had done at h-dev ..... Just waiting on uprev to sort the tables to be able to map it in . Major floor in the stillen design if you ask me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren-B Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Personally I reckon your heat/det issues are due to the poor design of the stillen kit, the maf's are reading intake temps before the charger & water/air intercooler, so the ecu cannot compensate for fluctuations in intake temps, I'd be spending my money having a couple of temp sensors made to thread into the intake manifold after the cooler matrix. This is what mine has had done at h-dev ..... Just waiting on uprev to sort the tables to be able to map it in . Major floor in the stillen design if you ask me Will be interested to see the results, I'm sure it will end up in a better, smoother tune. How many temp sensors do you have & where have they been positioned? are they just taken from the maf loom? Trouble is Stillen made the kit to a cent, supplying additional temp sensors would have cost them more money. It's as if they spent all their time designing the intake manifold & pipe, then just didn't bother on the rest of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) Personally I reckon your heat/det issues are due to the poor design of the stillen kit, the maf's are reading intake temps before the charger & water/air intercooler, so the ecu cannot compensate for fluctuations in intake temps, I'd be spending my money having a couple of temp sensors made to thread into the intake manifold after the cooler matrix. Exactly what Litchfield Did with mine And changed it to closed loop or open loop which ever way round it works lol Edited July 16, 2015 by nissanman312 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Personally I reckon your heat/det issues are due to the poor design of the stillen kit, the maf's are reading intake temps before the charger & water/air intercooler, so the ecu cannot compensate for fluctuations in intake temps, I'd be spending my money having a couple of temp sensors made to thread into the intake manifold after the cooler matrix. This is what mine has had done at h-dev ..... Just waiting on uprev to sort the tables to be able to map it in . Major floor in the stillen design if you ask me Will be interested to see the results, I'm sure it will end up in a better, smoother tune. How many temp sensors do you have & where have they been positioned? are they just taken from the maf loom? Trouble is Stillen made the kit to a cent, supplying additional temp sensors would have cost them more money. It's as if they spent all their time designing the intake manifold & pipe, then just didn't bother on the rest of it. Not sure where the sensor is in the manifold as im picking it up today , only one sensor I believe and yes I think it's taken from the maf loom . It's not been mapped in yet as we are waiting on uprev . Nic ( or Darren ) what does open / closed loop mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Her ya go - closed loop- ECU needs feedback from o2/ECT sensor to verify how much it has to correct fuel pulsewidth to bring the car to a stable stoichiometric value. open loop- ECU reads airflow values from a MAF/MAP sensor and dependant on that, dumps/withholds fuel to maintain a specific a/f (I didn't write it I copied it it I'm to lazy to type all that ) Another good description - When the engine is running in closed loop, it is using the A/F signal from the 02 sensor to regulate the mixture. There is a feedback "loop" between the sensor and ECU so the ECU continuously makes adjustments based on the 02 data. In open loop the 02 sensor isn't used and the ECU sets mixture based on stored maps and other sensors (coolant temp etc). Usually open loop is used on initial start and during warmup, until the 02 sensor reaches its operating temperature and produces a signal and the engine also reaches its operating temp, at which point the switch to closed loop takes place. Under heavy acceleration the system will generally go open loop (some vehicles may remain in closed loop). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren-B Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 what he said ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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