RobPhoboS Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 First visit to Kaizer, to have various bits looked at, installed and resolved. So my list was something like this: Fit bushings Fit transmission mount Bleed and inspect brakes Fit compression arms 4 wheel alignment/geo Fit toe bolts IF required Tighten belts (replace if worn) extra - check passenger window motor - reset ? After dropping the car off, and going through the work again as some parts I wanted to reuse (bushings), Sly kindly dropped me off at the station and back home 25 mins later before work. My car ended up being one of those pain in the bum ones, where bolts and bits were seized or snapped (sorry!). So it took a little longer than Sly expected but no problem, I'd rather he doesn't feel rushed, more than happy to leave it as long as it needs. So it was (nearly) all cool for Saturday morning, I say nearly as it needs to have a faulty brake hose replaced (thus the spongey feel) and perhaps have the front driver side camber difference looked at at some point. The car feels totally different in the best possible way! It's sooo tight and together now. I'll make a proper 'build' thread later to give some details. Here are the alignment settings at the moment. Many thanks again Sly! (hopefully catch you in the week to sort the brakes out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Guys, as you can see my front camber differs to each other, to get the driver side in line with the passenger side any thoughts on how to achieve this, or is it really a case of going for something like Eibach/Cusco upper control arms ? (Sly advised this, which is more than likely what I'll do as it makes sense - my wallet doesn't agree ) But just for info: I have the Superpro adjustable compression arm bushing 'SPF2849K' (seems like only caster is affected) in there but I saw they also do adjustable upper arm bushing for camber but that'll only give 0.5 deg difference. I can't work out why it's quite different Edited February 23, 2015 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Is your car stock height or lowered now? I suspect lowered seeing the increase in caster. Seconfly what bushes did you change at the front? Did you use any alignment type bush or you just have one you want to use? The disparity could be down many things and can be narrowed down depending on your answers. I suspect it's to do with unequal ride height side to side. I'm not a fan of the alignment type bushes as the a not accurate and the range us too small to be of value. I also like to find any issues rather than band aid it however the effective way to correct this is with adjustable front UCAs. The added benefit is you can dial in more camber to get that biiisssssssh to corner like on rails. SPL, Kinetix or eibach get my vote. Cusco, ichiba, D2, k sports and all the other knock off will fail. Edited February 25, 2015 by GT4 Zed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hello mate. It's now lowered, the springs have been under the car for about 3 or 4 weeks now, about 1 week on the new Bilsteins. These are the new bushings: SuperPro Compression Arm bushing - on new compression arms. (Offset Bushes For standard Caster or Increase) SPF2849K Prothane Polyurethane Front Control Arm Bushing Kit (14-210) Front Upper Control Arm Bushings Front Lower Control Arm Bushings Front Lower Control Arm Shock Links Front Lower Radius Arm Bushings (not used, Superpro used instead) Prothane Poly Steering Rack Mount Bushing Kit (14-706) Prothane Polyurethane 21MM Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit W Bracket (14-1116) Prothane Polyurethane 34MM Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit (14-1115) Totally agree on the SPL/Kinetix/Eibach products for the upper arm. And yep, I'm totally with you in identifying the root cause first, then proceed to resolve or get the arms. The frustrating thing is that if the right drivers side would come in more, I'd be happy, as I think camber of around -1.6 is fine for my use, and I wouldn't need to purchase anything else . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Nice listðŸ‘. Recheck the coilover on the drivers side. It must be sitting slightly higher. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hopefully we can just check and do that tomorrow One thing I did notice and forgot about, a few weeks ago I had a new front tyre fitted, and I didn't check the pressure afterwards. I checked this a couple of days ago (after alignment), and it was about 9PSI out ! That could be a coincidence, I'm not sure, the new tyre is only about 1mm deeper in tread depth though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 It's possible that could be the cause but I would expect that Sly would check and correct the tyre pressures of all 4 sides corners before doing full geometry alignment. I always ensure correct tyre pressures enroute to alignment. Re check the geometry when you are there after checking the coilover too👠The big question is how do you drive a car with 9psi down on 1 corner and you couldn't tell the difference🙀!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 The big question is how do you drive a car with 9psi down on 1 corner and you couldn't tell the differenceí ½í¹€!!!! /excuse mode: on It's weird, usually I do them every 2 weeks and I guess I've not done any driving at all. And since everything has been changing chassis-wise I'm not used to it yet. /excuse mode: off The funny thing is, on my old MR2, I could tell which corner was down by a tiny amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Bah, issue discovered, rear offside brake pipe: :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) So basically the previous company that installed the Hosetechniks overtightened this one, and that's the result. It split the brake pipe end which meant some fluid was leaking. Initially thought it was the Hosetechnik line at fault but it wasn't, I wish it was though as it could have been easily replaced. After looking at the ends of stock OEM line, HEL, Hosetechnik and Goodridge, the Goodridge is pretty much identical to stock which wouldn't cause an issue. Or in my case the Goodridge could be used without the leaking. It seems that the HEL and Hosetechniks are different to stock which can lead to buggering the end up if not installed correctly Luckily Sly had spare stock pipes, so a rubber one has gone back on without leaking. Edited February 26, 2015 by RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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