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Selah83

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Hey all,

 

thought i'd bring this one to the masses, as to see if i can't get few ideas about this issue I have..

 

Ok

 

Before Christmas was driving along admiring myself in windows when the car coughed, backfired and stalled.. restarted 10mins later with the CEL light on.

 

Christmas eve drove to in-laws and both traction and slip lights came on adding to the already on CEL light. Tried to start car with no joy just cranking.

 

Early new year had AA out to tell me I had code P0340 - So I replaced both CPS's tried to turn over - again just cracking, then battery died went flat.

 

Next day replaced battery tried to start car, had it running for 2 mins (rough idle) before lots of popping (presume backfire) and stalling, tried restarting a few more times then fried starter motor :/

 

replaced starter motor and now back in the same position as before - cranks but no start!

 

any ideas???

 

Cheers

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wouldn't the crank sensor also throw a code?

 

Not necessarily.

 

However if you have replaced the cam sensors properly with proper fully working sensors, then my next port of call would be to try a crank sensor.

 

Where did you buy the cam sensors and were they genuine Nissan.?

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Given one by Keyser, the other from Flea-bay - however (that one) I only replaced because I was replacing the faulty one under the intake!

 

Worth putting the old bank 1 back in? to see if that makes a difference?

Edited by Selah83
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Ok so an update!!!

 

So i have the front of the engine off and in bits :D yay

 

I have replaced crack sensor and cam sensors....

 

Now here is the fantasic bit of news.... looking at the timing belt tensioner, its at 22mm.... well surely that can't be good!!

 

Next step any advice?

 

thanks

Edited by Selah83
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Well to be honest Keyser, when I finally got it up on my mates lift there were a few things i was umming and arrring in about- the supercharger down pipe wasn't connected to the pipe that connects to the engine also the rad fans weren't connected!! :/ - anyway has been a good chance to get under there, clean and look around, try and get to know her a little!! so far her name-sakes has been true but maybe i can tame her a little :boxing:

 

There is one thing I wanted to ask about whilst on the subject - obviously she's had a new starter motor, however placement of the starter is within 3mm of the manifold (are they legal btw keyser?? :blush: lol) is there anyway to shield the starter from the manifold or any ideas about how to go about reducing the amount of heat the starter is gonna be exposed too?

Edited by Selah83
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Well to be honest Keyser, when I finally got it up on my mates lift there were a few things i was umming and arrring in about- the supercharger down pipe wasn't connected to the pipe that connects to the engine

 

Well if that blew apart it may be why she was running rough - boost gauge should have shown no pressure and I'm sure you would have felt the difference if she wasn't making boost ?? It was connected the last time I drove her - trust me I would know if she was not making boost ;)

 

also the rad fans weren't connected!! :/

 

They are on bullet connectors or were - good job you didn't over heat her - no idea when they were disconnected - I know she had some body work done between leaving me and going to you - but I see no reason to disconnect them to take the bumper off - unless they were in the way when the Z speed under tray was being removed / refitted.

 

- anyway has been a good chance to get under there, clean and look around, try and get to know her a little!! so far her name-sakes has been true but maybe i can tame her a little :boxing:

 

There is one thing I wanted to ask about whilst on the subject - obviously she's had a new starter motor, however placement of the starter is within 3mm of the manifold (are they legal btw keyser?? :blush: lol) is there anyway to shield the start from the manifold or any ideas about how to go about reducing the amount of heat the starter is gonna be exposed too?

 

 

You mean the manifolds or the decats?

 

All depends on your emissions the headers do say "for race use only" but that is because they are American, on a car that age you can remove CAT's as long as the car will pass emissions - or so I believe, check with an MOT centre - of course I used Hi Flow CATs for the road and only put on the the De-CATs for track ;)

 

Yes the headers are very close to the starter motor - always have been - never had an issue with it, never had to replace a starter motor since the rebuild, they are ceramic coated which should help keep the heat inside - if you want to go another step you could wrap them and if you are really keen you could fit a small plate between the starter and the header to reflect heat - as I say never caused me an issue though :)

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