richard.hezlett Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I'm thinking of buying a dual action polisher and wanted to get people's opinions. 3 polishers spring to mind Meguiars c220v2, das6 and das6 pro. I'm tending to be swayed towards the das6 because it's suitable for soft paint and also the cheapest. Any opinions would be appreciated. Also require advice on suitable pads. Regards Richard Hezlett. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I presume you mean the Megs G220v2? The Das6 is a perfectly good machine. The Das6 Pro/Plus is basically the same thing with a slightly more powerful motor meaning it's less prone to bogging down which the Das6 can do with soft, small spot pads in particular. The G220 is essentially the same as the Das6 Pro/Plus but with a lower slowest speed... which you're unlikely to ever use anyway. I currently use the Das6 and I'd have no issue with recommending that but if I were buying again I would be tempted by the Pro/Plus version. My decision would be based entirely on budget in that circumstance - I'm not completely convinced the Pro/Plus is "worth" £40-odd over the standard after all. Pads - the easiest option is this (almost) complete kit with or without the machine - all I'd suggest on top of that is pad with no cut (like this or this for example) for glaze/wax/sealant if you plan on using your DA for those. If you want to get pads separately, I'd still recommend the Lake Country Hydro-Tech pads as per that kit. I know you haven't asked about them, but if you're after any compounds as well, I'd recommend Scholl S30+ and S20 over the Menz in that kit; although the Menz are very good polishes themselves and quite forgiving for a newbie to machine polishing, I find the Scholl just that little bit better for me & my technique. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard.hezlett Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 I presume you mean the Megs G220v2? The Das6 is a perfectly good machine. The Das6 Pro/Plus is basically the same thing with a slightly more powerful motor meaning it's less prone to bogging down which the Das6 can do with soft, small spot pads in particular. The G220 is essentially the same as the Das6 Pro/Plus but with a lower slowest speed... which you're unlikely to ever use anyway. I currently use the Das6 and I'd have no issue with recommending that but if I were buying again I would be tempted by the Pro/Plus version. My decision would be based entirely on budget in that circumstance - I'm not completely convinced the Pro/Plus is "worth" £40-odd over the standard after all. Pads - the easiest option is this (almost) complete kit with or without the machine - all I'd suggest on top of that is pad with no cut (like this or this for example) for glaze/wax/sealant if you plan on using your DA for those. If you want to get pads separately, I'd still recommend the Lake Country Hydro-Tech pads as per that kit. I know you haven't asked about them, but if you're after any compounds as well, I'd recommend Scholl S30+ and S20 over the Menz in that kit; although the Menz are very good polishes themselves and quite forgiving for a newbie to machine polishing, I find the Scholl just that little bit better for me & my technique. Sorry. Yes meant the G220v2. Thanks for your advice. You have given me lots to think over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 No problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bems Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I use the das6 pro. Bought as it's the perfect middle ground between basic DA & orbital IMO. Worth the extra over the das6 I'd say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aminul Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I'd recommend the DAS6 PRO. I used to use to but moved on to using the bigfoot rupes 21 and 3M rotary. For pads, I'd recommend the meguairs microfiber cutting pad with meguiars ultimate compound. Followed by a chemical guy white hexlogic polishing pad with CG v36 and finally finished with a CG black hexlogic finishing pad with CG v38. if your planning on using the machine to apply a liquid wax then I'd recommend CG red hexlogic pad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Hey Richard, I have the DAS 6 and currently only used it for applying a glaze. It seems to do the job just fine and I'm pretty sure it's capabilities are much higher than mine, so I'm not likely to "outgrow" it. I got it off eBay for about £60 delivered. There are usually quite a few second hand on there in perfect condition due to people buying them and barely using them before realising they can't be arsed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delz0r Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Also consider the DAS6 PRO + from CYC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I'd recommend the meguairs microfiber cutting pad Just out of interest, how many Z's have you worked on with this? I'd say microfibre pads are way too aggressive for the terribly soft paint myself, especially for the novice machine polisher. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aminul Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I'd recommend the meguairs microfiber cutting pad Just out of interest, how many Z's have you worked on with this? I'd say microfibre pads are way too aggressive for the terribly soft paint myself, especially for the novice machine polisher. I'll be honest with you I haven't worked on any zeds. Although I have used MF cutting pads on very soft paint. As a professional, I want to minimise the time I spend on each vehicle. But that doesn't mean I'd ever compromise quality. If the paint is too thin, then I'd go on to using a foam cutting pad. But the whole point of microfibre cutting pads is to bridge the gap between rotary and DA's. The whole point of detailing is to correct the paint by taking the least amount of paint off. If I find it to be a little too aggressive, then I'd switch to foam pad. But I would usually start off with a MF cutting pad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I'll be honest with you I haven't worked on any zeds. Although I have used MF cutting pads on very soft paint. As a professional, I want to minimise the time I spend on each vehicle. But that doesn't mean I'd ever compromise quality. If the paint is too thin, then I'd go on to using a foam cutting pad. But the whole point of microfibre cutting pads is to bridge the gap between rotary and DA's. The whole point of detailing is to correct the paint by taking the least amount of paint off. If I find it to be a little too aggressive, then I'd switch to foam pad. But I would usually start off with a MF cutting pad Fair enough, if that's what works for you, I must confess time has rarely been a consideration for me. I'm somewhat surprised that, as a professional, you don't adopt the the well versed "start with the least aggressive and work your way up" mantra though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aminul Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I'll be honest with you I haven't worked on any zeds. Although I have used MF cutting pads on very soft paint. As a professional, I want to minimise the time I spend on each vehicle. But that doesn't mean I'd ever compromise quality. If the paint is too thin, then I'd go on to using a foam cutting pad. But the whole point of microfibre cutting pads is to bridge the gap between rotary and DA's. The whole point of detailing is to correct the paint by taking the least amount of paint off. If I find it to be a little too aggressive, then I'd switch to foam pad. But I would usually start off with a MF cutting pad Fair enough, if that's what works for you, I must confess time has rarely been a consideration for me. I'm somewhat surprised that, as a professional, you don't adopt the the well versed "start with the least aggressive and work your way up" mantra though. Sorry I may not have been clear in my last post so this may be a little confusing. I do use the method of using the least aggressive method to get the job done. But if I'm doing a car which has just left the show room, then i know that there is a good amount of factory clear coat on the paint for me to play around with. Although I'd still measure the paint thickness. BMW's for example have an absolute solid paint from my experience. So I wouldn't necessarily need to "work my way up" as from experience, once I know that the factory clear coat is there on a BMW, I can grab my rupes 21 and MF cutting pad and get on with it. Whereas if I'm working on a classic rare car, then I'd measure the paint before even considering compounding and polishing. And from there I'd use the least aggressive method and work my way up. So it sum it up, if I'm working on a car which has factory paint, and I've worked on the same manufacteur car, the paint strength (soft or hard) tends to be consistent through all the cars of that make. As stated above, bmw's have solid paint from my experience. Hondas and a lot of Japanese cars have soft paint. I'd adjust my methods accordingly. Although this thread is starting to go off topic so do PM me if you'd like to discuss more or let's start another thread. I love it when a good intelligent debate sparks as with everything else in life, we learn new things on a daily basis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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