BJRz Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Hello everyone. For those who had an input on my previous thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/93918-spacers/ that has been sorted! Thanks for your advice. Instead of cutting the hub bolts or knocking them out and buying new ones, which I imagined would be a bit of a nightmare! I decided to go for 25mm spacers all round and a rear arch roll and now everything fits perfectly! (if you are in the Norfolk area looking for arch rolling service, I'd strongly recommend A Reeve Performance in King's Lynn) no rubbing on the front or rear and the spacers now sit flush with the hub (as they should do!) currently ET-10 on a 10J at the rear and ET-3 on a 9J at the front. Now.... After getting this all sorted I took the Z to get aligned, as you can see from the pictures below there is a bit of an issue with the camber: Before: After: Now my dilemma is: Can I get away with the minor adjustment from a pair of Eibach adjustable toe bolts with the stock camber arms? Can I buy a pair of adjustable camber arms and use the stock toe bolts? Or am I going to need to buy both adjustable camber arms and toe bolts? Just dont want to jump in and buy the whole kit when I may not need both arms and bolts. As you can see from the last photo there isn't an awful lot of room so I'll probably have to run -2 degrees camber at the rear anyways, so its really just pulling the rear offside wheel in by +2 degrees. As always, Thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 You would be best with camber correction arms for the front and rear. You should get away with the rear toe bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 You would be best with camber correction arms for the front and rear. You should get away with the rear toe bolts. +1 However I find the alignment very odd! To start off at the front there is .5 deg difference in caster while the toe/ camber is pretty even and would suggest the front ride height is square since you cannot adjust OEM front camber and caster. The only explanation would be a worn/torn bush at the front and likely the compression bush since it can allow front to back movement if worn which in turn will increase or decrease caster. At the rear the camver disparity is even more baffling as if you could get one side to 2degs or there abouts then why the other side at 4 deg? The only things I can think about as a posible cause is a bent camber arm or failed damper, sagged spring or wrongly installed components or the alignment guys were crap! If everything is equal then that side has to be significantly lower than the other to give twice the difference. Rear bushes do wear/perish or fail but should affect static camber but handling dynamics. Is the car lowered on coilovers or springs. Has it had a bump you know off eg hard kerbing? The eibach arms will restore the difference but it's important to find why. As you rightly said you may have to run > -2.camber both sides to avoid interference but that's not too bad if under 2.5deg At the front -1deg 40-50mins camber is ok Infact the zed can do with more. You will need arms if you want to exploit this but otherwise you are ok. Hope you find the issues👠1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desey Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) I had around the same specs on the rear, used aftermarket camber arms, and eibach toe bolts, and the mechanic said there was lots of room for adjustment after that btw im around 45mm lower maybe more and about the same wheel sizes Edited January 30, 2015 by Desey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 What you need is - http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z33.html#SPLFUAZ33 and http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z33.html#SPLRMLZ33 Just so happens I know where a set is for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJRz Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 You would be best with camber correction arms for the front and rear. You should get away with the rear toe bolts. +1 However I find the alignment very odd! To start off at the front there is .5 deg difference in caster while the toe/ camber is pretty even and would suggest the front ride height is square since you cannot adjust OEM front camber and caster. The only explanation would be a worn/torn bush at the front and likely the compression bush since it can allow front to back movement if worn which in turn will increase or decrease caster. At the rear the camver disparity is even more baffling as if you could get one side to 2degs or there abouts then why the other side at 4 deg? The only things I can think about as a posible cause is a bent camber arm or failed damper, sagged spring or wrongly installed components or the alignment guys were crap! If everything is equal then that side has to be significantly lower than the other to give twice the difference. Rear bushes do wear/perish or fail but should affect static camber but handling dynamics. Is the car lowered on coilovers or springs. Has it had a bump you know off eg hard kerbing? The eibach arms will restore the difference but it's important to find why. As you rightly said you may have to run > -2.camber both sides to avoid interference but that's not too bad if under 2.5deg At the front -1deg 40-50mins camber is ok Infact the zed can do with more. You will need arms if you want to exploit this but otherwise you are ok. Hope you find the issuesí ½í± I'll have to take a look at the bushes once its up in the air, a good 10+ years with the stock bushes so this could be the issue! Yeah the rear camber baffled me slightly! No idea whats gone on there... I'll definitely get a set of adjustable arms for the rear and see how I get on. The car is lowered on Eibach springs (30mm drop) and i'm not aware of any heavy impact. I'm not looking to track it or have perfect alignment, so at the possibility of sorting out 1 degree of camber on the front i think i'll save£400 and stick with the stock arms and give the adjustables a miss! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJRz Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 What you need is - http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z33.html#SPLFUAZ33 and http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z33.html#SPLRMLZ33 Just so happens I know where a set is for sale :O thats the best part of a grand!! I'm not made of money hahahah. I know modding the zed isn't exactly wallet friendly but jeeez 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJRz Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Just a quick update if anyone has the same dilemma as me and is searching around the forums in the future for an answer! I bought a set of Eibach adjustable rear camber arms and the alignment is all sorted. Did not need adjustable toe bolts in the end, managed to get away with the stock ones and adjustable arms. Currently running -2.5 degrees of camber on the rear, just enough that the wheel sits within the arch without rubbing and i've got most of the tyre in contact with the ground! Thanks again for the input guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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