M.1 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Hi all, I have a problem with my 07 350Z, Car is just about to hit 40k miles, car has been running fine for the last year or so, I've had no major issues as of yet. Last week I parked the car up on the Friday night then on the Monday morning I started the car and it immediately went into safe mode (wouldn't rev above 1.5k) I then left the car for one hour to research what might be the problem, after the hour I restarted the car and it started fine all be it a bit rough for the first few seconds, I assumed nothing of it but thought I better get a diagnostics check to see if it's throwing any codes (I have still yet to do this but will get round to it this week) anyway all week the car started first time however I did notice it was running a little short on power and didn't want to rev as smoothly as it used to, anyway come Friday night I again left the car parked in the driveway, so today I decided to see if the car would start, it didn't and I ended up with this. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeM4iUDEcuuQZVzOmmkgX4x5nwD-RG9Ne I tried messing around for about an hour or 2 but still couldn't get it started, anyway at 4pm I decided to try one last time as to which the car started, it ran very rough for about 10 seconds almost cutting out a few times but then ran normally from then onwards, I quickly ran round the back of the car to see if there where any noticeable smells or smoke, I did note that a lot of white rich smelling smoke was coming from the exhaust but this then dissipated when the car warmed up, I took the car round the block 3-4 times for some medium/hard driving to see if I had any hesitation or problems, It still feels like the car doesn't want to rev as freely I also got a few jerky moments at 5.5k rpm for a second or two, Anyway I pulled in turned the car off and back on again and it's starting fine now, I do notice that the exhaust note sounds a little bit louder than normal (standard 07 exhaust). My initial thoughts are maybe a bad coil pack or plugs? But I wouldn't have thought the coils would have went at 40k (Plugs might be more likely) Also regards the smoke on the exhaust I'm 100% sure it's not a head gasket problem as my coolent levels etc are all normal. Any thoughts? Again I know I'm probably best getting a check on the codes done first, but I'm just checking in case any of you have had any similar problems. Edited February 8, 2015 by M.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2orry Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I would start with full service chances are it's done 40000 on the same plug's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 I would start with full service chances are it's done 40000 on the same plug's. I think your right, got the car last march just had a look through the service history and I can't see any plug changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z350convert Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I don't think it's plugs, they wouldn't behave like that suddenly. Get the code reader on it. Bet you have a dodgy sensor somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Update on this; took it to my mechanic who checked to see if the car was throwing codes, turns out no codes are logged or stored, so back to square one. They reckon there is a censor somewhere going bad but can't do much until complete failure worryingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanky Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I'd debate that, if there's none logged or live doesn't mean there's no particular electrical fault. Leaving you with "wait until complete failure" is extremely shoddy service. Smoke from the exhaust might be poor combustion, hard to tell without seeing it. Just as considerations, you can get things checked for operation without replacing:- Cam position sensor(s) Crank sensor Normally a car "can" run without cam position once it's going, but it needs to know where it's starting off from in the 4-stroke cycle hence the cam sensor to give the second input to know when to inject and spark properly. I'd say the cam sensors first thing to check. There should be an inspection sheet or checklist for voltage inputs and outputs on there you can do with a multimeter without even removing them. It could be an intermittent thing, so be sure to do some wiggle and adjustment trials on it as well if you can access them (never needed to on a Z yet). Worth seeing if that'll help without having to go buy stuff willy-nilly anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 I'd debate that, if there's none logged or live doesn't mean there's no particular electrical fault. Leaving you with "wait until complete failure" is extremely shoddy service. Smoke from the exhaust might be poor combustion, hard to tell without seeing it. Just as considerations, you can get things checked for operation without replacing:- Cam position sensor(s) Crank sensor Normally a car "can" run without cam position once it's going, but it needs to know where it's starting off from in the 4-stroke cycle hence the cam sensor to give the second input to know when to inject and spark properly. I'd say the cam sensors first thing to check. There should be an inspection sheet or checklist for voltage inputs and outputs on there you can do with a multimeter without even removing them. It could be an intermittent thing, so be sure to do some wiggle and adjustment trials on it as well if you can access them (never needed to on a Z yet). Worth seeing if that'll help without having to go buy stuff willy-nilly anyway. Very detailed reply, thanks for this mate. I've got all weekend to have a look so I'll have a look then. Funnily enough I've been searching for days for a potential problem, the only thing that's throwing me off is the fact my check engine light has yet to come on but I guess if it's intermittent then it may not come on. Cheers mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanky Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Any luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) Think I've managed to trace it down to a bad MAF censor(s). Decided to check my filters after this bad weather and noticed they were essentially full of crap, I'm going to clean the censors this weekend, however I did pull the electrical connectors that attach to the MAF off and plugged them back in again to see if the ECU noticed any changes, the engine management light is now on (which in my case is at least a clue), the car funnily enough is now running a lot smoother and isn't going intermittently into safe mode. Going to get another computer plugged in this weekend as I'm now 90% sure it will now finally throw a code. I'm also going to clean the MAF's this weekend also just in case. I've had a look online about the symptoms of a bad/dirty MAF and it all points to the same issue's I'm having. Here's hoping. I'll jump back on this thread with an update; just in case anybody else has the same issue, they can hopefully refer to my experiences. Edited January 28, 2015 by M.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Update; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg5Q5q1Bgoc&feature=youtu.be This is what it's currently doing on start up (seems to be worse when it's cold) car usually starts without too much trouble when the weather is above 0c. Done this for about 2 minutes and now wont come out of limp mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Video is private fella, couldn't view the other either, one thing to remember is that unless your using a dedicated Nissan reader, some others cannot read all the modules, so you only end up with half the picture, By what your now describing, I would say that you may have a problem with the ECU coolant temp sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) Should be it now, going into Nissan next friday, hopefully will get to the bottom of it. Edited February 7, 2015 by M.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bems Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Looks like similar to when there is a maf issue. Isnt this where people try the pedal dance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 So over the last week I've been busy trying to fix this problem as it really is a pain. Took it to Nissan to check for any codes, no codes stored car isn't throwing any either, as the car starts when it's warm they were unsure so wanted to keep it with them for a few days whilst they look into it, they did mention however they will still charge me by the day, so I was absolutely not up for that considering it would likely run into the hundreds. I brought the car back, decided to clean both MAF's car ran fine and started every morning for a week (thought I had initially solved the problem) then 2 days ago I went to over take a cyclist, slowed down to 20 went to pull away in second gear and it went into limp mode or wouldn't rev above 1.5k rpm. Had to pull into a lay by, turned the car off and back on the car then reacted normally and pulled away without any issue's, the next morning I tried to start the car and again the car wouldn't start as seen; https://fbcdn-video-f-a.akamaihd.net/hvideo-ak-xpa1/v/t43.1792-2/10565310_1040858129272256_932686218_n.mp4?rl=1500&vabr=982&oh=24077f38072a7f691f14c5d646a8f11e&oe=54D77B5B&__gda__=1423407872_62f37e6f500a5bf94d0b22c8444395f3 Now ever since the car went into limp mode that day, the car will not start when left for a period of time, the only way the car starts is if you give it some gas when turning the ignition key on even then it takes a good 4-5 times, the car also get's stuck in limp mode until it's warmed up then I need to turn it off and back on again to be able to drive away. I've also changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday, I had thought again this has solved the problem as the car felt a lot smoother to drive, but again I've went to start the car this afternoon and it's acting up again. It's like working blind on this one simply because the car isn't throwing any codes, the engine management light also isn't on. So I'm still completely baffled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 So over the last week I've been busy trying to fix this problem as it really is a pain. Took it to Nissan to check for any codes, no codes stored car isn't throwing any either, as the car starts when it's warm they were unsure so wanted to keep it with them for a few days whilst they look into it, they did mention however they will still charge me by the day, so I was absolutely not up for that considering it would likely run into the hundreds. I brought the car back, decided to clean both MAF's car ran fine and started every morning for a week (thought I had initially solved the problem) then 2 days ago I went to over take a cyclist, slowed down to 20 went to pull away in second gear and it went into limp mode or wouldn't rev above 1.5k rpm. Had to pull into a lay by, turned the car off and back on the car then reacted normally and pulled away without any issue's, the next morning I tried to start the car and again the car wouldn't start as seen; https://fbcdn-video-...d0b22c8444395f3 Now ever since the car went into limp mode that day, the car will not start when left for a period of time, the only way the car starts is if you give it some gas when turning the ignition key on even then it takes a good 4-5 times, the car also get's stuck in limp mode until it's warmed up then I need to turn it off and back on again to be able to drive away. I've also changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday, I had thought again this has solved the problem as the car felt a lot smoother to drive, but again I've went to start the car this afternoon and it's acting up again. It's like working blind on this one simply because the car isn't throwing any codes, the engine management light also isn't on. So I'm still completely baffled. video in this link doesnt work buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 So over the last week I've been busy trying to fix this problem as it really is a pain. Took it to Nissan to check for any codes, no codes stored car isn't throwing any either, as the car starts when it's warm they were unsure so wanted to keep it with them for a few days whilst they look into it, they did mention however they will still charge me by the day, so I was absolutely not up for that considering it would likely run into the hundreds. I brought the car back, decided to clean both MAF's car ran fine and started every morning for a week (thought I had initially solved the problem) then 2 days ago I went to over take a cyclist, slowed down to 20 went to pull away in second gear and it went into limp mode or wouldn't rev above 1.5k rpm. Had to pull into a lay by, turned the car off and back on the car then reacted normally and pulled away without any issue's, the next morning I tried to start the car and again the car wouldn't start as seen; https://fbcdn-video-...d0b22c8444395f3 Now ever since the car went into limp mode that day, the car will not start when left for a period of time, the only way the car starts is if you give it some gas when turning the ignition key on even then it takes a good 4-5 times, the car also get's stuck in limp mode until it's warmed up then I need to turn it off and back on again to be able to drive away. I've also changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday, I had thought again this has solved the problem as the car felt a lot smoother to drive, but again I've went to start the car this afternoon and it's acting up again. It's like working blind on this one simply because the car isn't throwing any codes, the engine management light also isn't on. So I'm still completely baffled. video in this link doesnt work buddy Stupid facebook links, I've uploaded onto youtube in a 2 video playlist of the car's problem, first video is what I get when attempting to start second video is what I get when it finally starts https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeM4iUDEcuuQZVzOmmkgX4x5nwD-RG9Ne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Have you got your own code reader? For 25 quid I would get one with live data it may come up with something, how far away are you from a zed specialist? You would think it would be throwing up some code? Edited February 8, 2015 by jollyranchers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Have you got your own code reader? For 25 quid I would get one with live data it may come up with something, how far away are you from a zed specialist? You would think it would be throwing up some code? I do indeed, nothing stored on mine, it also shows live data but nothing jumps out at me. I've had a few mechanics look the past few weeks and they all are 100% sure it's a censor, it's just finding the one that's causing the issue. For some reason I'm swaying towards replacing both MAF's to see if that works, the only reason is I'm thinking this is because when I cleaned them last week the car started fine and it was particularly cold that week, it started all week apart from the Thursday where I encountered troubles again, I have a feeling one of them is on it's way out but it's not quite failed hence the reason for the lack of codes. I've cleaned both again tonight so if all is well tomorrow morning then I'll know that it's likely a MAF problem..hopefully anyway. Edited February 8, 2015 by M.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 So. I've taken the car to Nissan who then proceeded to tell me my plugs should be changed and that they think it's a plug issue. After buying some plugs and changing them the car has run *ok* still running with a slight loss of power and running rich still. Took a drive tonight as the car hasn't been used much all weekend, get onto the road and the power dies *sigh* and won't let me rev past 1k rpm, had to turn the car on and off again a few times and the car rev's like normal, managed to get the car back to the house, they have advised taking the car back to them if the problem persists. When I mentioned to them about a failing MAF they said it would throw a code/warning light, surely if the MAF is partially failing then the car is still noticing airflow hence no warning light etc? Tomorrow I'm going to have them test both MAF's and TBPS's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimboy2 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Is there not a specialist near you that you can take it too? Nissan will keep guessing and costing you money. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanky Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Surely there's a page in the technician manual that alludes to the running measurements on the sensors? Voltages, resiistances, etc? It sounds like it's intermittent, so it could well be a contact inside anything that affects the car's base map to allow it to drive - MAF, crank, coolant sensor etc. Is there any way of getting a mate to watch the fault codes on the reader while you drive and see what it picks up when the car does eventually fail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Surely there's a page in the technician manual that alludes to the running measurements on the sensors? Voltages, resiistances, etc? It sounds like it's intermittent, so it could well be a contact inside anything that affects the car's base map to allow it to drive - MAF, crank, coolant sensor etc. Is there any way of getting a mate to watch the fault codes on the reader while you drive and see what it picks up when the car does eventually fail? I have a technician doing this tomorrow, going to take the car a run and have a look at how the car is running. After changing the plugs over the car starts as normal now. However if you drive the car from a solid cold start and instantly drive it without warming up the engine rev's die about 10 minutes into a journey and you are unable to rev above 1,000 RPM (No engine warning lights show when this happens). I've been told that if the MAF fails or fails to read an air source then the engine only lets in enough fuel for idle hence the reason why the car won't rev past 1k-1.5k . We're essentially going to work from the MAF's up then have a look at the readings from the Crank/Cam sensor and finally the coolant temp sensors (I have replaced the coolant temp sensor so this one is unlikely but still worth a try). The car at the moment is running with reduced power and there is a slight bog down at 1.5k - 2.5k revs when driving normally, almost like the engine wants to hold back within this rev range, I did unplug both MAF's and took it a small drive around the block in limp mode and noticed that the car had no power loss between 1-2.5k revs, I also noticed when I plugged the MAF's back in then reset the code for around 15 minutes the car ran with normal power however then went back to running rich and having lack of power. Edited February 25, 2015 by M.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanky Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 One of those that's gonna take painstaking lateral thinking in the way you've just described then, best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.1 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Just an update on this (Only updating just in case people come across the same issue and don't know what it is) Took the car back to the specialist as mentioned above, they tested the MAF's both read fine and are working correctly, so that rules that out. We are now thinking along the lines of a fueling issue, ie fuel pump, injectors etc. I know my Fuel pressure regulator is knackered as it's doing the infamous ticking noise and has been doing the last 6-7 months, does anybody know if this would cause a significant issue as above. The fact that it wont rev above 1k RPM on a cold start suggests maybe there is not enough pressure getting sent to the injectors and when it finally warms up perhaps it's sending too much fuel into the system causing exhaust to spill out white strong petrol smelling smoke. Next monday I'm leaving the car with them for a few days to check the fuel system when left in the cold and when left in a heated environment, the issue seems to occur the worst when it's cold, when it's warmish outside the car has minimal issue's however still over fuels slightly. Will report back next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I did reply to your facebook message on the Abbey Motorsport Facebook page. I would like to speak to you with regards this issue. ring me on 01883 732331 ext 2 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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