MCook Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I have posted before about needing a local service centre, but was recommended to go to Horsham which is about an hour and a bit away from me... Lets just say the drive would be incredibly un-comfortable and maybe dangerous...!? I have had a knocking noise, from the front I believe.. it is identical to this noise: Went to my local garage after a week of driving, came back with a £300 bill and all the noise was still there, they wanted to replace the rear shocks too, when the sound it clearly from the front. I quote, they 'had never had one of these car's in before'. Left it a little while, the noise in really annoying but does not effect handling. (that I know of) Then around a month ago I developed a vibration along with a loud whirring noise. It is especially bad once above 40mph and even worse when on a slight right hand bend. And nearly un-bearable at motorway speeds. (it is incredibly noisy!) I do have a dented alloy but again, that has been there since buying the car and never caused any vibration issues. And now, Saturday just gone, my engine light is on, constantly. I panicked when I saw my oil pressure was about 20 upon idle, so ran out and got some oil. Was not sure if it was normal or not........ I am in the Fareham / Portsmouth area, if anyone can recommend me a local garage that will actually be able to tell me what is wrong with my Zed! If it is a simple enough job I would like to tackle it myself (I need to learn). I am trying to avoid the garage I went to originally, but might have to pop down just for a diagnostic on my engine fault. I am working 6 days a week and have no access to any other vehicle so I am finding it a real struggle to get time to sort my Zed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Firstly oil ~ park the car on a flat level surface & check the level when cold. Ideally it should be at the top mark, top it up if necessary. The EML light being on will give you a code to read that should show you an error code relating to why the EML has come on. List of fault codes: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81962-350z-fault-codes-in-pdf/ Easiest way to read the codes is to buy an OBII code reader (around £20+ on eBay) or ask (pay) a garage to read the codes or do the ECU reset procedure from the service manual which can flash the codes at you via the EML blinking in sequence although this is probably the most awkward way of reading the codes especially if there are a few on there. Codes though can be stored on the ECU for awhile unless wiped clean with the an "ECU reset" so it's best to clear them first, then drive the car & when the EML comes back on you should have the correct code relating to the most recent problem & not an old code that just happens to be on there. Ecu reset guide: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/53148-how-to-ecu-accelerator-pedal-throttle-valve-resets/ As for the vibration/loud whirring imo it sounds like a wheel bearing issue if you ask me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Wheel bearings were my first thought for the vibration issue, Will purchase some front wheel bearings and attempt to fit them myself! I have tried many tests to locate the knocking noise but I cannot pin point it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHEZZA Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) Have you checked banana arms and drop links. This is what was causing my knocking noises on the front.your clip sounds like my worn drop links. Edited November 11, 2014 by SHEZZA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comrade Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) First, never go to a non-specialist garage to troubleshoot issues. A cheap local should only be used for fairly simple jobs that you can't or can't be arsed to do yourself. Knocking should be either banana arm bush/joint or droplinks. Bushes and droplinks are cheap, joint has to be replaced with the whole arm, which is £250. EML easy to check yourself as GM explained. As to the bearing - lift the wheel and try to rock it to see whether there is any play in it. If there is no play you can remove the wheel and remove pads and rotate the hub by hand. If the bearing is dodgy you should be able to tell. Pressure of 20 at idle is perfectly normal, do check the level though. Edited November 11, 2014 by comrade 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Drop links were done about 6 months ago, just before I got the car. I will look into the other possibilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harryjax Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 If it's drivable take it to the Zed Shed. They will diagnose the issue. Its not that far from you. Send Keyser or Buster a PM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 In previous threads you have mentioned the knocking and been told that the banana arm (and quite possibly the associated bushes) is more than likely the issue, a common failure on ZEDs the age of yours, and sadly one not understood by many garages who do not know ZEDs well. Moreover it is not easily detectable in situ. You have already wasted money on a W brace and I am fearful you may be doing the same with wheel bearings as they don't normally knock as you have described and what I can hear in your video. So you really need to get to a specialist, even if that means a bit of travelling. The nearest 'specialist' I can think of, given you are around the Fareham area is the ZED SHED down Bournemouth way. If your pm Keyser he might be able to assist but given he helps owners out in his spare time. http://www.350z-uk.c...r/14782-keyser/ Edit: They will also be able to check your other concerns but if you have 20psi oil pressure at idle that is good! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 The reason for new wheel bearings is to hopefully rid the vibration/humming at speed and whilst cornering. If I get that sorted I will then feel more comfortable travelling to a specialist to solve the knocking noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
370Ad Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Wheel bearing is an easy job, especially at the front. Drive down a straight road and turn the car left to right, if the car only makes a 'whiring' noise on one side then pretty much is the bearing. And stop wasting money on rubbish local garages, the wheel isn't going to fall off so if you have the cash drive to Horsham and leave it there (Probably not the cheapest option). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Wheel bearing is an easy job, especially at the front. Drive down a straight road and turn the car left to right, if the car only makes a 'whiring' noise on one side then pretty much is the bearing. And stop wasting money on rubbish local garages, the wheel isn't going to fall off so if you have the cash drive to Horsham and leave it there (Probably not the cheapest option). This is another silly question but as I am getting the vibration mainly when turning right, am I right in thinking its the left side causing the problem? (i.e weight distribution to the left is what I am thinking..........) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Firstly oil ~ park the car on a flat level surface & check the level when cold. Ideally it should be at the top mark, top it up if necessary. The EML light being on will give you a code to read that should show you an error code relating to why the EML has come on. List of fault codes: http://www.350z-uk.c...t-codes-in-pdf/ Easiest way to read the codes is to buy an OBII code reader (around £20+ on eBay) or ask (pay) a garage to read the codes or do the ECU reset procedure from the service manual which can flash the codes at you via the EML blinking in sequence although this is probably the most awkward way of reading the codes especially if there are a few on there. Codes though can be stored on the ECU for awhile unless wiped clean with the an "ECU reset" so it's best to clear them first, then drive the car & when the EML comes back on you should have the correct code relating to the most recent problem & not an old code that just happens to be on there. Ecu reset guide: http://www.350z-uk.c...e-valve-resets/ As for the vibration/loud whirring imo it sounds like a wheel bearing issue if you ask me. Just read my fault code as 1147 which is the Heated O2 Sensor 2, going to reset and see is it is completely nakered or not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCook Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Have reset and no EML has appeared yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
370Ad Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Wheel bearing is an easy job, especially at the front. Drive down a straight road and turn the car left to right, if the car only makes a 'whiring' noise on one side then pretty much is the bearing. And stop wasting money on rubbish local garages, the wheel isn't going to fall off so if you have the cash drive to Horsham and leave it there (Probably not the cheapest option). This is another silly question but as I am getting the vibration mainly when turning right, am I right in thinking its the left side causing the problem? (i.e weight distribution to the left is what I am thinking..........) You are correct sir. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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