Wasso Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I have read on a lot of threads (350/370z.com) that sound deadening the doors has the most impact on road noise and sound quality That reply is excellent, most companies would just say "look at the website" Or - "use the search button" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I have read on a lot of threads (350/370z.com) that sound deadening the doors has the most impact on road noise and sound quality That reply is excellent, most companies would just say "look at the website" Or - "use the search button" Or don't bother because it is pretty useless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitherb Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 So.... Huge improvements made. Only focused on the doors this weekend. Applied a complete covering of silent coat absorber 35 to the door cards with cut outs for the door handle mechanism and speaker area. This has massively reduced mid and bass resonance in the door and it's now almost entirely eliminated, certainly no need to anything further. If you choose to do this don't forget to make some holes for the screws holding the door card to the door, the plastic trim plugs and the cabling for window controls. I also applied a patch of Dodo Liner Closed Cell Foam 6x8 inches behind the speaker on the Dynamat coated outer door skin for good measure. I also cut 45mm holes in the door sails so I could mount the tweeter properly. Did this using a 44mm ringsaw bit and a bit of dremmel to expand the hole slightly, checking with the tweeter as I went so as to make a good fit. The tweeters just pushed into the hole with a bit of force and certainly don't need any kind of fixing to hold in place. Imaging and high frequencies now hugely improved. Very satisfying! I'm now getting the quality I had hoped for when forking out for the original installation. Finally getting to appreciate how good the Focal 165 KRs are. Only thing missing now is real bass.... Next up is the sound deadening for the boot, floor, rear wheel arches and maybe even the roof. I'm seriously considering building a sub box for the stock location as I like a relatively stealth install and appreciate the little amount of storage space in the Z's boot. I'm probably gonna go for a 10" JL and use channel 3/4 bridged from the amp. I think a proper install for a box in this location will be critical. Will update the thread after the next round of work. PS. What's the best way of posting pics on these threads? (sorry if that's a stupid question) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitherb Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Pics attached using tapatalk iPhone app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Seasider Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 (edited) Great attention to detail - I'm almost persuaded to get some of my old install hardware off the garage rafters! PS - you may have mentioned it but I didn't spot it in the posts - did you upgrade the wiring. You'd be surprised how much difference (improvement) decent speaker wire and interconnects make. Edited October 12, 2014 by The Seasider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitherb Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thanks, I always find the detail to be difference between a good and a great job! Yep new speaker cables were run from the amp in the glove box right through to the cross overs on the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Seasider Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Didn't think I'd catch you out ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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