ChrisB Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 I will make sure its properly full, don't you worry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Mcgoo Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Should have gone for the V2 that shares the engine oil via pipework. Lol None of that hassle on my vortech. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 With V3 though you get quiet (ish) running and guinea pig pictures in your thread. All this procrastination - I'm sure when we get on to actually do it, it'll be easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 With V3 though you get quiet (ish) running and guinea pig pictures in your thread. All this procrastination - I'm sure when we get on to actually do it, it'll be easy Sure sounds like it should be easy *famous last words*. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I still want to know which hole to stick it in though? Don't want to put it in the wrong hole and make a mess of things! Might need some more guys to help in here to find the correct hole I think. Simple solution; take it to a garage and get them to do it. Ask them which hole they used (although you might want to elaborate on that phrasing ). If it blows up, they buy you a whole new setup. If it doesn't then Chris knows he's okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 OK then supercharger fans, I've made a gadget. In true Blue Peter fashion, it has some red PVC tape (aka sticky-backed plastic) to pad out the pipe diameters, some off-cut vacuum pipe as a flexible coupling, a spring clip and some drip pipe (wifey is a vet, so we just so happened to have a giving set lying around). This should give me plenty of reach to get the oil into the un-contravercial dipstick hole I blew down the pipe to test it, hence it's a bit steamy. Tomorrow, I'll test out this little creation 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Getting technical now mate, ...very impressive stuff. Can't wait to see if it works ~ you just need to figure out now how to get the dipstick bung out in the first place & you're golden. Good luck with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Come on then chaps, it's not that hard. S/C oil is changed with no dramas - pretty easy really Firstly you need a 3/16" allen key There's just enough room to slide the dipstick out here. There is minor fiddlyness involved here, but only minor.. I've got a Z-speed under tray, so access is really easy without needing to remove anything other than the front nearside wheel. Use a 13mm socket for support to undo the nut - two open ended spanners flap around too much Drain... have a cup of coffee Replace and tighten up the drain nut again, just finger tight and 1/2 turn or so with the socket/spanners so as not to over do anything as it's only aluminium.. Use the gadget to fill her back up again I cut a hole in the oil bottle to allow free movement of fluid Slightly tedious, have more coffee All done, wiggle dipstick back in, screw it to tightness, unscrew it and wiggle it back out and you get.. Perfect - no adjustment necessary. Put the dipstick back in and tighten back up, wheel back on, go for a test drive, and re-check for leaks - job done 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 great job and guide for others 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmck13 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 "Necessity is the the mother of invention", There you go you have just proven it, well done Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Well you've made that look easy then Chris, ...why where you so worried?, I know I wasn't. Seriously that's made me worry about it less so I'll just follow your guide now for when it comes to doing mine soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Cheers chaps - storm in a teacup really. Little fiddly in the dipstick department, but once you've taken it out a couple of times and got the extraction knack, it's easy. I later rechecked my stick for fun as I noticed the washer wasn't in the pic above but it's there, all present and correct. I also wanted to see if the fluid settled after a test drive, but there was no difference, all good. My Blue Peter creation certainly solved the oil feed problem - the dipstick hole is quite inaccessible without some sort of flexible pipe. The only change for next time will be to make the hole lower down on the bottle so I can put my thumb over it without air leaking, to squeeze fluid through faster. Go on.. you know you want to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 It's spring! Got a couple of days off too.. time to crack on with a few remaining jobs.. so here's a micro update. My car has been running great, so obviously, I want to take it to bits again Firstly, my knob got a new bag.. I rather like alacantra / ultra suede Bought a couple of (blue alu) replacement 3/8 NPT to 5/8 hose fittings for ccv side can number deux.. original fittings (nylon) are a bit small for the Vortech breather pipe. I'm not sure it's going to fit at the moment, but hey ho, might as well pursue the enhanced PCV folly. Might as well give these a bit of attention On to the main reason for dismantling - fitting my sensors Spaghetti again Are we there yet? I hope it doesn't rain tonight - all my plastic covers are still off, ready for a proper go at it tomorrow... I can't decide - leave the old engine cover as-is, paint it some garish combination of red and silver, or bin it for an EPR carbon fibre jobby... ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 If there is nothing wrong with your standard engine cover then I'd keep it as is tbh. I mean from the picture it looks good and the "V6 3.5" still look's like new. I only changed mine in the end because it had cracked from being cut to accommodate the pulleys, the "V6 3.5" logo was worn and then to top it off I lost my "NISSAN" badge so I thought f**k this. Was lucky in the end because Chris gave me a good discount on the carbon fibre cover and my Dremel skills modified it perfectly to fit around my SC pulleys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Ah yes Dremeling - I bought one a few weeks back. I modded my cover with a hacksaw, side cutters and a file originally - after Dremeling some other things, Dremel = cool (except on alloy wheels - that didn't go so well ) I know, my cover isn't bad, but blingy carbon fibre , or pretty paint.. but then again, my with painting skills.. EPR CF looks a better bet #copygranville Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Ah yes Dremeling - I bought one a few weeks back. I modded my cover with a hacksaw, side cutters and a file originally - after Dremeling some other things, Dremel = cool (except on alloy wheels - that didn't go so well ) I know, my cover isn't bad, but blingy carbon fibre , or pretty paint.. but then again, my with painting skills.. EPR CF looks a better bet #copygranville Sounds like you know what to do, ...get the carbon fibre EPR one then by the sounds of it is the plan. When I did mine I put masking tape over the bits I was going to cut out and then drew the lines where I wanted to cut in pencil onto the masking tape. I was also able to kind of lay my old pre-cut cover on top of the carbon fibre one to give me the rough lines. I used Dremel fibreglass reinforced cutting discs as I found they worked the best for cutting the CB. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Hurrah after 1.5 days of scratching around, I'm half way to sensors completion. Red rain threatens, so I'm binning pushing on for today. First up, strip the passenger panel off. Caverns of room in there since there is no glove box.. If you find mysterious tiny weeny cross head screws on your passenger's floor mat - this is where they come from Now, all the wires have to go through this very important grommet. It is vital that this is not ruined as it is the only thing that stops rain getting into the cabin through the firewall - and it is quite exposed to the elements under the plastic cover First up - start fitting remaining sensors though - got side tracked as I noticed a very slight oil weep from one of the Mishimoto oil cooler banjo joints.. nip that up a bit.. Fitted the AFR sensors to the Fast Intentions HFCs - I had them made with the extra sensor port options - and route and tie all the plugs and cables nice and neatly Bored with banging my nose on the under side (my old jack won't lift the car past 2 axle stand notches - new one on the list), I decide to checkout the contents of my most fantastic Mishimoto PCV/plenum side catch can.. (it has been at least 2500 miles since I last looked) The bronze filter downstream is fresh as a daisy - no clogging there This is what came out of the can. Definitely a good purchase Back to wiring ...oy vey Loads more wires in the grommet now. Highly tedious threading it all through BTW - the mastic in the boot is the stickiest substance known to man it seems All wired in. Plenty of room for the battery - the bump conduits all sit in natural runs around the battery, under the battery plate and up the side of the IPDM. Yes the short loom in the middle was a mistake but it is fine where it is.. Which leaves it here for today. I am probably going to nibble the metal in the battery housing to make more room for the 5 conduits to pass under the plastic rather than vandalise the plastic. I'll run a bit of edge protector rubber round the cut edges too. A different day for that though - I need to get the right tool first. Just the spaghetti the other side.. I couldn't resist a quick play, so I connected the power and control line to the terminals of my sub-amp. Power is via a relay, fuse and diodes. I have my project display and a couple of digital AFR gauges - which can be replaced for serial logging. I will be using them initially to set my mini display device up. Boot-up = Banzi Ultimately I will put the mini display here. It is protected from sunshine, nice and clear and in line of site. It can also be put out of the way if need be. None of the values are correct yet as I have to attend to the soldering in of the spaghetti though Edited April 10, 2015 by ChrisB 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 That is very cool Chris. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 I'm quite pleased how it is coming on In addition to remaining installation jobs, I need to aluminium-weld a boss on to the intake pipe section for the supplementary intake air sensor next, and possibly get one of those in line sensor ports for the supplementary coolant sensor (probably a smaller bore one for the rising pipe just before the top rad hose). All good fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mouthwash Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Impressive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Just a quickie with my ongoing car-ar-due-ino sub-project.. My passenger footwell.. Heat shrunk fixed connector connections ..and semi-plumbed in for test. I've left it here for now for test accessibility. I've roughly stuck the twin AFR meters to the carpet and thrown a big pillow over all the looms and gadgets for now, so I can drive around in it checking functionality. The mini-display has been roughly stuck with double sided tape to the sun visor to see how we get on. Already, fuel pressure and oil temp read spot on ..although analogue wide band AFRs (cross checked against narrow band analogue AFR simulations) seen a bit low compared to the digital displays, so there is an investigation. Probably just need to tweak some software coefficients a bit. The other oddment is that the MAP (boost/vac) sensor connection might be a bit funky - I've always been suspicious of the GM plug they use as it seems not to seat that well. IAT and coolant are only dangling in the engine bay currently, until I get the new port hardware sorted. Not a very good pic, but it's car wires - hey Part of the design is that the Arduino bit is detachable. It will sit in the grey box in Nissan's perfectly designed plug holder which has a slot made for Arduinos (not really - but serendipitous all the same). I connected everything via a 25way D (silver plug/socket) which is on a spur to the fixed/soldered D and installed looms. This means I can service the Arduino and vero-shield, including reprogramming, either in car or in a comfortable indoor room (e.g. couch). I must say (even though it is blowing my own trumpet - and it's at the expense of fighter cockpit appeal), I really like having a general status bar on the mini display going green when all numbers are in acceptable range - and it's easy to see any numbers that are causing a red - because they go red (or white or blue). The idea is multi-channel monitoring instead of trying to drive and read lots of separate gauges at once. Takes the guesswork out of 'is the car warmed up yet?' too. I promise that I'll install the looms and gadgets properly at a later date - not leave it all hanging out In other news, I attempted a bare metal respray of the wiper arms. I hate painting. Did I say I hate painting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 So do you actually drive the Zed anymore Chris? Fair play cause I hate electrics, ...now the painting I could have done that for you no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Driving? God yeah. But my car is a rolling project - the down side of perpetual DIY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Such an amazing read...been highly enjoyable for the past hour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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