Jump to content

Precious got a supercharger


ChrisB

Recommended Posts

I still want to know which hole to stick it in though?

 

Don't want to put it in the wrong hole and make a mess of things! :surrender:

 

Might need some more guys to help in here to find the correct hole I think. :lol:

 

Simple solution; take it to a garage and get them to do it. Ask them which hole they used (although you might want to elaborate on that phrasing ;) ). If it blows up, they buy you a whole new setup. If it doesn't then Chris knows he's okay. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK then supercharger fans, I've made a gadget.

 

In true Blue Peter fashion, it has some red PVC tape (aka sticky-backed plastic) to pad out the pipe diameters, some off-cut vacuum pipe as a flexible coupling, a spring clip and some drip pipe (wifey is a vet, so we just so happened to have a giving set lying around). This should give me plenty of reach to get the oil into the un-contravercial dipstick hole :teeth:

 

0981D0C6-D4F1-4635-91ED-A694475269E0.jpg

 

I blew down the pipe to test it, hence it's a bit steamy. Tomorrow, I'll test out this little creation :thumbs:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Come on then chaps, it's not that hard. S/C oil is changed with no dramas - pretty easy really ;)

 

Firstly you need a 3/16" allen key

 

1ABD41BA-6DF2-4DC4-B08E-63D3EF276305.jpg

 

There's just enough room to slide the dipstick out here. There is minor fiddlyness involved here, but only minor..

 

8EF9D9D9-E66E-45C6-A5E4-C92A95CE340E.jpg

 

I've got a Z-speed under tray, so access is really easy without needing to remove anything other than the front nearside wheel. Use a 13mm socket for support to undo the nut - two open ended spanners flap around too much

 

7564146E-086A-4E11-A9A5-B5577DC5DD1F.jpg

 

Drain... have a cup of coffee

 

109FF852-EFBF-48C0-AFA5-511527450CC4.jpg

 

Replace and tighten up the drain nut again, just finger tight and 1/2 turn or so with the socket/spanners so as not to over do anything as it's only aluminium..

 

Use the gadget to fill her back up again

 

64A486C7-FC54-45DC-9613-767986DBE0B1.jpg

 

D6613C7F-716F-4E05-9364-5FDF4AAC4595.jpg

 

I cut a hole in the oil bottle to allow free movement of fluid

 

90E9B27C-35A4-4314-82C2-2749CEE8655E.jpg

 

Slightly tedious, have more coffee

 

54ACAB9D-78CD-466E-9DD3-F012E970B064.jpg

 

All done, wiggle dipstick back in, screw it to tightness, unscrew it and wiggle it back out and you get..

 

45E86F64-BC99-46CB-9362-E218B94F1B26.jpg

 

Perfect - no adjustment necessary.

 

Put the dipstick back in and tighten back up, wheel back on, go for a test drive, and re-check for leaks - job done :thumbs:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers chaps - storm in a teacup really.

 

Little fiddly in the dipstick department, but once you've taken it out a couple of times and got the extraction knack, it's easy. I later rechecked my stick for fun as I noticed the washer wasn't in the pic above :scare: but it's there, all present and correct. I also wanted to see if the fluid settled after a test drive, but there was no difference, all good.

 

My Blue Peter creation certainly solved the oil feed problem - the dipstick hole is quite inaccessible without some sort of flexible pipe. The only change for next time will be to make the hole lower down on the bottle so I can put my thumb over it without air leaking, to squeeze fluid through faster.

 

Go on.. you know you want to :lol::thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

It's spring! :flowers: Got a couple of days off too.. time to crack on with a few remaining jobs.. so here's a micro update. My car has been running great, so obviously, I want to take it to bits again :doh:

 

Firstly, my knob got a new bag.. I rather like alacantra / ultra suede

 

BE78353D-089E-43E5-8CFE-85FD4F52EF7A.jpg

 

Bought a couple of (blue alu) replacement 3/8 NPT to 5/8 hose fittings for ccv side can number deux.. original fittings (nylon) are a bit small for the Vortech breather pipe. I'm not sure it's going to fit at the moment, but hey ho, might as well pursue the enhanced PCV folly.

 

5521FF74-7238-4156-BC05-939C43917419.jpg

 

Might as well give these a bit of attention

 

BD068CBA-D3D3-437C-8830-B07A1944F23D.jpg

 

On to the main reason for dismantling - fitting my sensors

 

856BE3E5-D096-47E9-8ABB-D23BEC7823F6.jpg

 

Spaghetti again

 

D6A9A390-F282-4A16-982A-21F938B53A38.jpg

 

Are we there yet?

 

63715B74-BFBD-4FFE-8339-B47AC0298D11.jpg

 

I hope it doesn't rain tonight - all my plastic covers are still off, ready for a proper go at it tomorrow... :thumbs:

 

I can't decide - leave the old engine cover as-is, paint it some garish combination of red and silver, or bin it for an EPR carbon fibre jobby... ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there is nothing wrong with your standard engine cover then I'd keep it as is tbh. I mean from the picture it looks good and the "V6 3.5" still look's like new.

 

I only changed mine in the end because it had cracked from being cut to accommodate the pulleys, the "V6 3.5" logo was worn and then to top it off I lost my "NISSAN" badge so I thought f**k this. :surrender::lol:

 

Was lucky in the end because Chris gave me a good discount on the carbon fibre cover and my Dremel skills modified it perfectly to fit around my SC pulleys. B);)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah yes Dremeling - I bought one a few weeks back. I modded my cover with a hacksaw, side cutters and a file originally - after Dremeling some other things, Dremel = cool (except on alloy wheels - that didn't go so well :lol: )

 

I know, my cover isn't bad, but blingy carbon fibre :cloud9: , or pretty paint.. but then again, my with painting skills.. EPR CF looks a better bet ;)

 

#copygranville

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah yes Dremeling - I bought one a few weeks back. I modded my cover with a hacksaw, side cutters and a file originally - after Dremeling some other things, Dremel = cool (except on alloy wheels - that didn't go so well :lol: )

 

I know, my cover isn't bad, but blingy carbon fibre :cloud9: , or pretty paint.. but then again, my with painting skills.. EPR CF looks a better bet ;)

 

#copygranville

Sounds like you know what to do, ;) ...get the carbon fibre EPR one then by the sounds of it is the plan. B)

 

When I did mine I put masking tape over the bits I was going to cut out and then drew the lines where I wanted to cut in pencil onto the masking tape. I was also able to kind of lay my old pre-cut cover on top of the carbon fibre one to give me the rough lines.

 

I used Dremel fibreglass reinforced cutting discs as I found they worked the best for cutting the CB. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hurrah after 1.5 days of scratching around, I'm half way to sensors completion. Red rain threatens, so I'm binning pushing on for today.

 

First up, strip the passenger panel off. Caverns of room in there since there is no glove box..

 

4426C20C-76ED-4C69-B8DC-F594A1B17B52.jpg

 

If you find mysterious tiny weeny cross head screws on your passenger's floor mat - this is where they come from

 

9213840D-6325-4477-864F-7ACE6BBA4E66.jpg

 

Now, all the wires have to go through this very important grommet. It is vital that this is not ruined as it is the only thing that stops rain getting into the cabin through the firewall - and it is quite exposed to the elements under the plastic cover

 

7CC1AECF-53B4-4965-BFD2-C1CDB741A7B7.jpg

 

First up - start fitting remaining sensors though - got side tracked as I noticed a very slight oil weep from one of the Mishimoto oil cooler banjo joints.. nip that up a bit..

 

0678A07D-E85D-4479-BAB9-92C8A0E3290E.jpg

 

Fitted the AFR sensors to the Fast Intentions HFCs - I had them made with the extra sensor port options - and route and tie all the plugs and cables nice and neatly

 

AE8D35D1-85B1-424B-9BBE-9C87AD24D2A0.jpg

FFE0CA59-F22D-4245-8C0C-06D17F3A265F.jpg

 

Bored with banging my nose on the under side (my old jack won't lift the car past 2 axle stand notches - new one on the list), I decide to checkout the contents of my most fantastic Mishimoto PCV/plenum side catch can.. (it has been at least 2500 miles since I last looked)

 

4B4F2A6F-7F9F-4B6B-A988-7479B580ECA0.jpg

 

The bronze filter downstream is fresh as a daisy - no clogging there ;)

 

FBEE4AB4-53EB-4D17-9186-B5A54DF25798.jpg

 

This is what came out of the can. Definitely a good purchase :thumbs:

193A6106-964B-4384-81B5-95BD203805D4.jpg

 

Back to wiring ...oy vey

 

4C59EC13-1FDD-470D-9D7E-A488D57FBF37.jpg

 

Loads more wires in the grommet now. Highly tedious threading it all through BTW - the mastic in the boot is the stickiest substance known to man it seems :rant::lol:

 

9CB91049-6FCD-4B0F-9846-E0F7EC795F8B.jpg

 

All wired in. Plenty of room for the battery - the bump conduits all sit in natural runs around the battery, under the battery plate and up the side of the IPDM. Yes the short loom in the middle was a mistake :doh: but it is fine where it is..

 

B04655FE-EE4C-4895-8588-D4BF95F7E9DD.jpg

 

Which leaves it here for today. I am probably going to nibble the metal in the battery housing to make more room for the 5 conduits to pass under the plastic rather than vandalise the plastic. I'll run a bit of edge protector rubber round the cut edges too. A different day for that though - I need to get the right tool first.

 

9EDFE5CD-D8C9-4550-B599-C49450DC21F6.jpg

 

Just the spaghetti the other side..

 

FA39EC58-F38F-463E-9976-52D36E62FDB5.jpg

 

I couldn't resist a quick play, so I connected the power and control line to the terminals of my sub-amp. Power is via a relay, fuse and diodes. I have my project display and a couple of digital AFR gauges - which can be replaced for serial logging. I will be using them initially to set my mini display device up. Boot-up = Banzi :lol:

 

4836C74D-4ABD-4666-8F18-AD8B20619903.jpg

 

Ultimately I will put the mini display here. It is protected from sunshine, nice and clear and in line of site. It can also be put out of the way if need be. None of the values are correct yet as I have to attend to the soldering in of the spaghetti though :lol:

 

EFDD568A-89E7-4292-9B10-E5C75CAC6702.jpg

 

:thumbs:

Edited by ChrisB
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm quite pleased how it is coming on :) In addition to remaining installation jobs, I need to aluminium-weld :scare: a boss on to the intake pipe section for the supplementary intake air sensor next, and possibly get one of those in line sensor ports for the supplementary coolant sensor (probably a smaller bore one for the rising pipe just before the top rad hose). All good fun B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quickie with my ongoing car-ar-due-ino sub-project..

 

My passenger footwell.. :lol:

 

92099A3D-76D7-4DE4-89CE-3578A5B372D0.jpg

 

Heat shrunk fixed connector connections

 

6F26D409-A161-497B-827D-32CABDBCE88E.jpg

 

..and semi-plumbed in for test. I've left it here for now for test accessibility. I've roughly stuck the twin AFR meters to the carpet and thrown a big pillow over all the looms and gadgets for now, so I can drive around in it checking functionality. The mini-display has been roughly stuck with double sided tape to the sun visor to see how we get on.

 

Already, fuel pressure and oil temp read spot on :#1: ..although analogue wide band AFRs (cross checked against narrow band analogue AFR simulations) seen a bit low compared to the digital displays, so there is an investigation. Probably just need to tweak some software coefficients a bit. The other oddment is that the MAP (boost/vac) sensor connection might be a bit funky - I've always been suspicious of the GM plug they use as it seems not to seat that well. IAT and coolant are only dangling in the engine bay currently, until I get the new port hardware sorted.

 

Not a very good pic, but it's car wires - hey ;)

 

0C1A083A-1E90-46CE-8469-AE017DC4A038.jpg

 

Part of the design is that the Arduino bit is detachable. It will sit in the grey box in Nissan's perfectly designed plug holder which has a slot made for Arduinos (not really - but serendipitous all the same). I connected everything via a 25way D (silver plug/socket) which is on a spur to the fixed/soldered D and installed looms. This means I can service the Arduino and vero-shield, including reprogramming, either in car or in a comfortable indoor room (e.g. couch).

 

I must say (even though it is blowing my own trumpet - and it's at the expense of fighter cockpit appeal), I really like having a general status bar on the mini display going green when all numbers are in acceptable range - and it's easy to see any numbers that are causing a red - because they go red (or white or blue). The idea is multi-channel monitoring instead of trying to drive and read lots of separate gauges at once. Takes the guesswork out of 'is the car warmed up yet?' too.

 

I promise that I'll install the looms and gadgets properly at a later date - not leave it all hanging out :lol:

 

In other news, I attempted a bare metal respray of the wiper arms. I hate painting.

 

81B021B4-01C6-43B5-8488-ACA4EE449339.jpg

E5676972-6B40-4CF7-B241-EAD773B39CBC.jpg

343964A4-1198-414B-BB58-EBF727FEA92D.jpg

 

Did I say I hate painting?

 

:thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...