jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 All, I know another overheating thead, but please bear with me. First noticed the 350x (Fairlady) overhearting a little on the way to south-end-on sea whilst on the motorway. Hit traffic and the the heat sensor just hit MAX, at which point I could feel (i think) the fan kick in hard. So I pulled over at nearest garage, waited for her to cool, topped up some water (not a lot) and waited some more. Thought I would drive back to London, and 10 miles later the temp sensor started to shoot up high, then come back down again.... repeated this until it hit Max again at which point I stopped and called the trusted AA. They came out, did some checks. So there are no leaks, engine seems fine, but it seems there is a build up of pressure and that no water is being sent around the system as it should to cool the car down. So he said it could either be: 1) The thermostat has an issue 2) Water pump is knackered Any kind members have an idea on this...? Also just rang up a Glyn Hopkin Buckhurst Hill to take a look and at the mention of an import they did a runner. Any other garages, in the Epping Forest area... Any help is appreciated Regards Jesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Air Lock Blocked Rad. Blocked Heater Matrix. Thermostat. Waterpump. Head Gasket. etc.etc.etc. I would try bleeding the system first as that is the most common fault. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks Alex, Is there a guide on the forum you might be able to point me too. Regards Jesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks Alex, Is there a guide on the forum you might be able to point me too. Regards Jesse http://crackaddict.com/~flynn/howtos/samco.howto/samco.howto.htm Bottom of the page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks Alex, Is there a guide on the forum you might be able to point me too. Regards Jesse http://crackaddict.c...samco.howto.htm Bottom of the page 'This document is the property of 350ZMotoring.com and can not be republished without the express written permission of the owners of 350ZMotoring.com' * 100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks Alex, Is there a guide on the forum you might be able to point me too. Regards Jesse http://crackaddict.c...samco.howto.htm Bottom of the page 'This document is the property of 350ZMotoring.com and can not be republished without the express written permission of the owners of 350ZMotoring.com' * 100 The other bottom of the page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks for that, appreciated Will be trying that tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Have started the bleeding process. Taking an age too cool down the bugger. Before I did, I drove it back from where it was towed too, and whilst the car was moving there was hot air coming from the heater, but during idle/standstill the heater was pushing out cold air (was set to max heat). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 One more thing, is it possible to use the bleed valve to remove the built up air or is the link provided above a better method...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Honestly not sure, free bump in hope someone in the know sees Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yes the bleed valve should be used to get the air out. Be careful that you do not unscrew to far as you may loose the bleed valve. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 As per Alex's first reply those are the possibilities, I'm more interested in why it got hot the first time - no leaks - high pressure - in hoses - hot air when revving then I bet it goes cold and the heater gauge goes up? I have seen those symptoms 3 times now, one was a new engine install and was an airlock - one was again an air lock but no idea why it got it the bad news is the third was a blown head gasket. Check for oil in the water and water in the oil do a bleed - I use a coke bottle with some amalgamating tape and jack the front up - so similar to that link but without the fancy funnel Doubt it's water pump maybe a blocked rad so maybe a good flush through is worth a try - you can take the thermostat out completley and run like that as a test. Hope you get it sorted quick and easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejk Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks for the info guys. Just finished bleeding, so there was no air in there from what I can tell, but on idle, the temp rose to 1/3 and with heater on there was still cold air coming out from the vents. So I took it for a spin to get the temp but didn't really move until I came back. Kept it idle, and put on the AC to stress the engine. Temp started to rise to 3/4 so I'm assuming the bleeding didn't work. Both Upper and Lower rad hoses were hot. Upper more so then than lower, but then I was putting my had in via the front of the bonnet and that could be hot from residual heat of other pipes. I popped the bonnet, had a look at both of the fans. Passenger side fan was active when AC was on, but on idle the Driver side fan was not on at all, even with the temp gauge over 3/4. I can see how a dead rad fan could cause temperature increase but just to confirm would it also cause cold air to be vented out when car is at a standstill...? Again appreciate all the help Regards Jesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 I found when bleeding mine recently that it helped to have the car revving to get the pump producing some pressure and the coolant circulating faster. I had the bleed valve completely unscrewed and just waited for a decent airless flow to emerge from it - just need some rubber gloves to put the valve cap back (wish I'd thought of the coke bottle trick!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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