synolimit Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Found some pics online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 2 ways installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Very interesting read and lovely 370. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sipar69 Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Looks mean 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Im liking the progress of this keep it up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbonesmcgee Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Good build thread, different to most builds on here which are more focused on looks, but the pure performance based thing you're going for has worked really well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/84438-370z-50-100mph-tread-everyone-post.html#post2642799 So my dyno and 1/4 mile all suck but at least I have some power to prove from all this!! This tells me my dyno reads low and my tires suck for the strip. I'm getting 6.5 seconds on the vid and that's with my tires chirping in 2nd. I figure that's a good tenth or two right there if i can get them hotter. This is ZL1 and C63 AMG territory so woohoo for only 302rwhp. synolimit, 2013, Nissan, 370z, 3200*, 3.7, 6 Cyl, All Motor, NA, 93, 302, 244, 14.0, 105.5, 6.5 http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gDcVViN-n-E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) Edited June 2, 2015 by synolimit 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) update 5/13/15, 313HP/266TQ 5th gear SAE Engine---- New single 3" side exit CBE--------$ LTH---------OBX, Done CBE---------Mine/Top Speed, Done CAI---------K&N/Z1/Mine, Done AOS---------Mine, Done PnP TB, upper and lower mani-------Mine, Done Tune----------Covert, Done Engine mounts---------$ Oil cooler---------Mine, Done PS cooler---------$ Drive---- Rear diff cooler--------Mine, Done Clutch--------$ Flywheel--------$ SPL diff bushings--------Done Drop Eng. tranny mount--------Done Redline diff fluid---------Done Redline tranny fluid--------Done Clutch slave cylinder--------$ Suspension---- Stance 2 way coilovers------18k/12k, Done SPL toe links------Done SPL traction arms--------Done SPL rear hcamber arms-------Done Hotckins front sway bar------Done SPL front lower bushing-----$ SPL front impact bushing------$ SPL camber arms front-------Done SPL rear knuckle bushings------Done SPL front end links-------Done Traction and yaw kill switch------Done Brakes----- Z1 SS brake lines------Done Front brake cooling ducts------Done Rear brake cooling ducts------Done Rbf600 fluid-------Done 2 piece front rotors------$ 2 piece rear rotors-------$ Xp10-------$ Xp8-------$ Chassis Roll cage--------$ Aero Front splitter-----Mine, Done Canards------Mine, Done GT wing------APR GT-250, Done Wheels/tires RPF1's 18x10.5 +15/-5 (Z1 20mm spacer), 285/35/18------Done Safety FIA seat------Done brackets-----Planted, Done belt------$ Hans------Done Misc. 11lbs battery------Deka, Done moved washer bottle-------Done Edited October 19, 2015 by synolimit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will370z Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Looking good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Idk how many of you have GT wings or GTC wings but holy crap is our trunk weak!! If you mount the base screws through more than 1 layer of the inside re-enforcements you're going to bend the deck lid as it gets sucked down in. So I only did the outside skin. Well that's way to weak and thin of aluminium. So I beefed it up a little! Now the trunk has 3 layers. One of which in the middle is really thick metal. The other 2 are just paper thin. I didn't want to cut through all that so the new under mounts are only going to the back 2 screws because I didn't want to cut more. The old method was just aluminium blocks about 2x2. From the vid you can see major flex! Now I have a piece of steel angle iron under the lid. Welded to that is another piece about a foot long so I can unbolt from the inside and still use the trunk. Then more angle iron welded to a 5/8" thick piece of steel then bolted to the trunk floor. I'm still not done with the drivers side and I'm going to bolt both sides together for lateral support on the inside. But over all a major difference! The car now moves vs the deck lid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 looking good, the deck lid is really thin, it flexs when i wash the car ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Nice build thread, let me know if you need help sourcing parts required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Well it's finally time. I'm tired of fuel starve so the gas tanks going to get cut in half. I'm going to have a local shop do it for about $150. It's not only the fuel starve issue though. The main reason I want it cut is to 1. Install a side exit exhaust out the side skirt in front of the rear tires so 2. I now can do a flat bottom and proper rear diffuser. 1. I'm going to have to figure out if I can reinstall the fuel gauge sensor. 2. How loud is it going to be because I wanted to do a fuel cell but the cost just sucks. So I won't be doing dual side exhausts at 2.5" but doing a single drivers side exit at 3" because the drivers side tanks getting the chop and not the passenger. I guess wish me luck and comment with any concerns or ideas we might miss. Ok in less than 45min I unbolted the CBE from the X pipe, removed the W and Y braces, removed the crazy light carbon drive shaft, heat shields and disconnected the E brake. Moving nicely. Ok the tank took about an hour alone. Pretty easy as its only held in by two straps and 3 hoses but the two 17mm strap bolts have zero room to remove from below which are above the subframe. I had to take two nuts and from inside the car, lock them together around the threads sticking up from underneath and then loosen them. Then below I could remove with my fingers holding the tank up with my other arm. So much room! My heads spinning with all the activities we can do! So many activities!!!! Whole body can fit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Racing seats in, next roll cage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Deleted the side curtain air bags awhile ago and had a whole bundle of wires taped up. Decided to delete the center airbag module which made me dig into the the passenger side harness again. Before i knew it only one wire was actually needed for the windows last 1/2" up and down. Now its so clean. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Some inspiration... u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Rear brake duct cooling lines installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 All evap removed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano94 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 wow! Loving this build. Good choice of wheels too and they look better in black but i'm biased Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) Update today... Engine---- OBX LTH with DEI titanium wrap Motordyne XYZ Y pipe with DEI titanium wrap Custom single 3" side exit exhaust, 1- 18" bottle res, 1 ultra quiet res Stillen gen 3 CAI with DEI gold wrap My dual AOS setup My PnP TB, upper and lower manifolds My 48 row oil cooler CJ motorsports large baffled oil pan Venting valve vents to atmos Gas tank cut in half for fuel starve fix Gas tank vent line with Boyd rollover vent/check valve Redline 5w30 oil 3qt accusump system Tuned by Crucial Performance Drive---- My rear 25 row diff cooler/Tilton pump with temp gauge SPL solid diff bushings Drop Eng. poly tranny mount Redline diff fluid Redline tranny fluid Suspension---- Stance 2 way true type coilovers 18k/12k SPL toe links SPL traction arms SPL rear chamber arms Hotckins front sway bar Rear sway bar deleted SPL camber arms front SPL rear knuckle bushings SPL front end links My rear eccentric lock out kit Traction and yaw kill switch Brakes----- Z1 SS brake lines Front brake cooling ducts Rear brake cooling ducts Rbf600 fluid Z1 2 piece rear rotors Z1 2 piece front rotors Carbotech XP12 front pads and XP10 rear pads ABS system delete with Wilwood proportional valve Aero---- My Front splitter My Canards My complete flat bottom My rear diffuser My front vender vents APR 71" GT-250 wing chassis mounted Wheels/tires RPF-1 18x10.5 +15 square RS-3's 285/35/18 square 45mm rear spacer with 10.9 hardware 3" ARP extended rear wheel studs Safety OMP fiberglass FIA halo seat. OMP 6 point FIA belt with 2" shoulder straps for Hans device. Hans III device. OMP belt with 8.8 ring hardware 10.9 hardware holding seat to raisers and base. Planted FIA steel base Planted FIA aluminium raisers. FIA 1.75" roll cage Misc. Rear wide body fenders Deka 11lbs battery 3 quart washer bottle in trunk Full car air bag system delete All non essential wires deleted throughout Vinyl wrapped AC system deleted along with two pulleys ABS system deleted Coming soon Pneumatic air lift jack system SPL front impact bushings SPL front lower arm bushings SPL rear upper arm bushings LSD Engine mounts Slicks Edited April 20, 2016 by synolimit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Its begun. Time for a flat bottomed car and a rear diffusor. So far the car has a front splitter that goes back about 4 feet covering where the old shield used to be. Now ive got another 2 feet about to go on with this template i made (just need matterial i wanna use). The rest of the way back should be pretty simple cutting out spots like where the exhuast flanges hang a little low and going out far past the side skirts for some side splitter action. Now onto the rear diffusor. Im still not sure what to do but this is what i have so far. The diff cooler bracket i made to catch air under the car and force it up into the cooler has what seems to be a 15.2* up angle. A 458 i tested had a 17* up angle but ive also seen flat diffusors. Guess this is as good as its gonna get without a wind tunnel. Now on a rainy day on the highway a huge rooster tail can tell a lot about a diffusor. Im also not sure how many fins to use or if they should be straight or taper out like ive seen after the center 2 like this / | | \. What i did since the car was up in the air, i ran a string from the front to the back touching points of the car. This insured the flat bottom will be flat and that the fins are parallel to the ground. So far ive made 2 fins that are 10" apart. I dont know if ill have 4, 6, or 8. These 2 are straight as a arrow. Any thoughts from here???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synolimit Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Well heres 15.2* and 8 fins then! Centers 10", next 2 are like 5.375", and outer 4 a like 7 something. Just something i picked. All are 100% parallel with each other so we'll go full scale with alumilite and test with string i guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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