allaboutthepasty Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Ok, so the Zed is due it's service next month after 6 months of ownership. It's a 2003 UK GT, currently on 63K and came with full Nissan service history. I was thinking whether to just take it in to the local dealership (Barton Townley - Barrow) for a very expensive P2 stamp, or do the required work (and the rest) myself. Looking at peoples threads in similar circumstances, I've decided to purchase the parts and oils myself and go for it. I know I'm competent enough as I've always done my own work and always take my time working methodically. I paid 6K for the car so doubt it'll affect resale and I'll be keeping all receipts. I'll also know that everything has been done as it should. Been looking through the history and came up with the following shopping list, just need a few pointers from people: NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - £50 - Last receipt I could find was 2005 for plugs. Clarks Belts - £25 - Looking worn and have cracks, can't find a receipt K&N Oil Filter - £10 - I like the idea of the bolt attached to the top. (K&N Panel Air Filter went in a few months back) 2 x Crush Washers Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30 - 5litre - £25 - Seems to be a popular shout MT-XY 75W85 Gear Oil - 3litre - £40 - For Gearbox Molyslip - £10 - Is there a ratio, do I just need the one bottle? Coolant - Car currently has green stuff in there, I'm guessing it's Nissan's own concentrated. I'm planning on draining the radiator but not the block. Any advice on this? Are there suitable alternatives? Apparently I can mix blue with green? Brake Fluid - Going to get a mech I know to do this as I don't feel comfortable playing with brakes. I don't track the car and never really drive it particularly hard. Just any branded 4DOT? I think that's a fairly comprehensive service. Anything I may have missed or particular advice? Should keep me busy for an afternoon and away from the nagging missus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhackyWill Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 PM Clark Motorsport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allaboutthepasty Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Yeah was going to. They seemed to offer the cheapest Gear Oil at least. Some bargains on ebay though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I've used Horsham Developments before and they can supply you a gearbox oil (use's the correct Nissan Oil) & Moly Slip together for £54 odd: http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=25501&osCsid=rkft82ooolak8pgg3dbipide94 Also they do service packs so it might work out better getting it all from one place; http://www.h-dev.co.uk/index.php?cPath=78_169_293&osCsid=sol8i470helfnumqcla2e20vf3 Although other traders are available (CS/Tarmac Sportz/Clark Motorsport etc) so it's up to you to shop around. It is important though to use the correct coolant from what I've read so make sure it's Nissan imo & I wouldn't mix two different types/brands. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) Only use Nissan coolant. Molyslip, you need one tube If you are doing gearbox oil then I'd recommend doing the rear differential oil whilst you are there, same procedure as gearbox, very easy. The Brembos are easy to bleed if you take your time, however you may prefer taking it to a mechanic like you say. If you do end up doing it yourself, the old fashioned two person method works best and be very careful of the bleed nipples as they can be seized, soak them in a proper penetrating fluid. I'd say any good DOT 4 will be alright, as you say you aren't tracking or driving the car hard so won't really benefit from the premium fluids. Edited April 20, 2014 by Jp606 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Just a quick note, undo the filler bolts first before you drain ( gearbox, diff ) A. It will drain quicker B. you don't drain and then find you can't remove the filler bolt to refill ! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Just a quick note, undo the filler bolts first before you drain ( gearbox, diff ) A. It will drain quicker B. you don't drain and then find you can't remove the filler bolt to refill ! Now that's a good tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 here yer go mate http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150939424104?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Doing the same jobs myself at the moment. Got the parts from Clarks, can't fault them, next day delivery and a bag of sweets thrown in the box for good measure (could have been an easter egg though) ha ha Did the engine oil and belts yesterday afternoon and doing the gearbox and diff today (so long as the back of the car doesn't fall of the axel stands again that is) It's amazing the little things you learn about the poor standard of work provided by the main dealers when you do it yourself. I found most of the engine undertray held on with self tappers and one of the engine top covers (with V6 on it) had been sheared and jammed in to look as if in tact. Will have to drill that out later and replace it. Makes you wonder if the actually do much more than change the oil and filters. A tick's easy to place on a service sheet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Ok, so the Zed is due it's service next month after 6 months of ownership. It's a 2003 UK GT, currently on 63K and came with full Nissan service history. I was thinking whether to just take it in to the local dealership (Barton Townley - Barrow) for a very expensive P2 stamp, or do the required work (and the rest) myself. Looking at peoples threads in similar circumstances, I've decided to purchase the parts and oils myself and go for it. I know I'm competent enough as I've always done my own work and always take my time working methodically. I paid 6K for the car so doubt it'll affect resale and I'll be keeping all receipts. I'll also know that everything has been done as it should. Been looking through the history and came up with the following shopping list, just need a few pointers from people: NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - £50 - Last receipt I could find was 2005 for plugs. Clarks Belts - £25 - Looking worn and have cracks, can't find a receipt K&N Oil Filter - £10 - I like the idea of the bolt attached to the top. (K&N Panel Air Filter went in a few months back) 2 x Crush Washers Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30 - 5litre - £25 - Seems to be a popular shout MT-XY 75W85 Gear Oil - 3litre - £40 - For Gearbox Molyslip - £10 - Is there a ratio, do I just need the one bottle? Coolant - Car currently has green stuff in there, I'm guessing it's Nissan's own concentrated. I'm planning on draining the radiator but not the block. Any advice on this? Are there suitable alternatives? Apparently I can mix blue with green? Brake Fluid - Going to get a mech I know to do this as I don't feel comfortable playing with brakes. I don't track the car and never really drive it particularly hard. Just any branded 4DOT? I think that's a fairly comprehensive service. Anything I may have missed or particular advice? Should keep me busy for an afternoon and away from the nagging missus. By the way, why you not draining the coolant from the block? Are members getting air lock issues when doing this. Slightly worried now as I'm doing the coolant today as well as the gearbox and diff oils ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Think I know why now! Got up early (I'm retired) and had a look. Access is virtually impossible lying on your back under th car, especially the left hand side drain plug. Looked like the air intake bits would have to come off and even then it looks difficult. Couldn't even find the front of engine plug so I think this ones for a garage (when I can find one I can trust) I may be wrong but looking at the drain plugs they look as if they've never been touched, no scratches, nothing, yet my main dealer said theve changed the coolant a couple of times. Unfortunately the only sure thing is to doit yourself, then you know it's done! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 You can drain the coolant from the bottom hose and then if you have an air line turn down the compressor so its really low pressure and carefully blow air into the top bleed point. Take your time and do not over pressure it so only have the compressor on about 8PSI. I found you could get most of the coolant out this way without any hassle. Refill using a 1 litre jug so you can know exactly how much you put back in as the nissan stuff is premixed. That way your confident that its had about a 95% change and i doubt if any garage will get that much out. Vacumn or air pressure its the thinking mans way forward to fluid change... just dont over do it and cause issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Good advice thanks. Unfortunately I don't have a compressor but I think Aldi do a cheap one so I'll look in there toorrow. Great fun, who needs holiday outings when you can be lying on your back with your hands stuck up inside an engine with release oil, coolant and engine oil dripping in your face. Can't beat it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allaboutthepasty Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Cheers for the advice guys. here yer go mate http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 Haha yeah, spotted this in one of Dicky's threads, was gonna buy from them, bargain. Yeah heard it was a right pain to drain from the block and there's only about a litre in there so not too fussed. Going to shop around, come up with a total price and if a trader wants to match it I'll get it in a one from them. Just a quick one though, this is the right stuff yes? Just seems very cheap: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-876-motul-8100-eco-nergy-5w-30-fuel-economy-petrol-and-diesel-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350zedd Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Coolant is Nissan L248 Premix I believe if you just drain the rad then you'll need 5L but 9L if you drain the block as well I need to do this myself, but am a bit wary after reading all the horror stories of air locks. Will probably let my trusted indy do it. You'll need Nissan Diff Fluid 2L and I replaced my brake fluid with Motul RBF600 (DOT4) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Well got as far as I could coolant changed approx 6L with the expansion tank, sod the block for now ( going to invest in a small compressor as gsexr suggested for next time) Engine oil and filter done no probs. Front belts changed, the originals were quite cracked and must have been as bad at my last main dealer service ( another clue they don't do all check list items). Not going to risk jacking the car up onto axel stands to do the gearbox and diff oil changes due to work surface I have outside, so the garage can do that (going to wait and watch them as well). My only disasters were.... Not tightening the front idler pulley lock nut s then wondering what the strange noise was when I stated up! ..... Leaving the heater hose vent plug off and wondering what all the smoke was coming out of the engine while warming it up to circulate the coolant! .....reversing into the garden gates and wondering what the high pitched squelch noise was while driving off the ramps. No damage fortunately. Never mind ...onward and downward, I can only get better ( I hope) ha ha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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