djtimo Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 So a little more progress! Gearbox all painted up and clear coated! Looking nice and clean! So i finally had a day spare to work on the nissan. I didn't take many pics as i just wanted the job done but basically I removed the old broken box. Pulled the old clutch and flywheel. (Clutch still looked in good nick!) Old box out! Excuses the rust... that will be sorted this year! New shiny box ready to go in! New flywheel and clutch being fitted. New pressure plate going on. All good so far! Took me and a mate about 7hrs total taking our time and cleaning the trans runner etc. The new clutch bits very hard but needs bedding in badly, the clutch was also very high on engagement so i have adjusted the bite point and made this a far chunk lower now so feeling a lot better. CD009 has no grinds and feels just as it should so far (i've only driven about 15 miles so far though) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 First day of 2017 testing the car yesterday at a VERY wet anglesey! The car has been fitted with a new Rad, Fans, Gearbox, Twin plate clutch and fly wheel and some new Nankang AR1 front tires. Anglesey was run by Javelin trackdays and we used the GP circuit in the AM and moved to the shorter costal circuit in the PM. I had been looking at tire temps trying to work out the best pressure for the day and settled on 32PSI hot all round. This still gave me 3-4 C hotter on the inner edge on the fronts showing I need more camber but thats coming ASAP. Dampers I have found a decent setting for on rebound and compression for the dampers that gave me a fighting chance in the very wet conditions, Still had basically zero grip but a fun day until 4pm when I had brake failure at about 80 mph! I hit the brakes hard while having a good little battle with an MX5 racecar slowed down maybe 20mph before the pedal went fully soft and straight to the floor! I thought it was terrible brake fade and pumped the pedal like crazy! Turned of the track onto the grass with handbrake on and down the gears quickly, Lucky to no have hit the car in front or anything solid! Back into the pits checked the car over and found I had lost level from the brake fluid res, checked all callipers and nipples and no visual leaks. Jacked the car up and pulled the front wheels, the driver side brake flex had worked through the P clip and managed to touch the inside of the wheel rim! This had rubbed through the outer coating, and the SS brained flex! I have emailed HEL brake lines, and stated what had happened was not a manufacturing defect but they have said they will help me out and send me a new set of front lines free of charge! What great service! If i can get the brakes bleed and back in action Ill be out testing in the dry hopefully on the 7th March at donning ton park Another good point was the car run a good chunk cooler with the new rad, peak temps hitting 210F after an 18 minute session. This is still not perfect testing as the rain meant i was not really revving past about 5k RPM shorts shining trying to reduce wheel spin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Nice write up mate Keep us informed, hope to get my toy out for some testing in the next 2 months 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillisRR Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) Awesome stuff! Appart from the brake failure but so thankful it ended well, those situations are never nice and so lucky in many ways! Good to hear about the engine temps, I have been wondering how i will get on with oem set up that said you are running silly power haha! Edited February 27, 2017 by WillisRR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Had a few hours today to try and sort my issues. First job was to get the car up, get the wheels off and sort out this blown brake line! This was the cover up to stop me losing fluid onto the tire.. Old brake line removed! Damaged area! (excuse the mess lol) New brake line had a different end fitting on the caliper end, Old used a banjo bolt with two copper crush washers new had a male compression fitting? Quick call to HEL and they confirmed this was the new style line so all was well! New line all fitted now and on to the front upper control arms from Z1, These are the race version with rose joints on all ends ;p Old arm removed with the superpro bushes compared to the new Z1 race arms. Tires from anglesey look like the outer end has been very hot, This will be from LACK of camber causing excess heat on the outer edges. The new arms will help stop this. Z1 Arms were set to a similar length of the old arms just a small amount shorter for extra camber. I have matched both sides but the car will need to be aligned ASAP and see where i am camber and toe wise. Im hoping for at least -3 camber so this will drastically help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) Just been having a think of the action plan for the zed for 2015.... So far Im going for: 1, SuperPro full front bush kit, shot blast arms and paint + refit and align underway, nearly DONE!! 2, Fit my wheel on with a snap off boss kit DONE!! 3, FINALY get a HUGE carbon GT wing, GOT IT!! DONE!! 4, Replace driver seat with a fixed back bucket seat DONE!! 5, Rear camber /toe arms to help get some power down and sort out the huge wheel spin DONE 6, Fit C west carbon canards DONE 7, Get Kw's ride hight set up and car aligned/Corner balanced DONE 8, Flock dash and trans tunnel 9, Get out and enjoy the car more in 2015!!! DONE 10, Get new passenger seat + Fit (2016) DONE 11, Fit R888 tires (2016) DONE 12, Continue lightening the car (2016) DONE 13, Get KAZZ LSD + Fit (2016) 14, Possible new clutch/flywheel (2017) DONE 15, Forge turbo actuators (2017 possibly) 16, Remap/syvecs (2017 Been remapped for more fuel and run cooler on Osirs) 17, Rear end poly bushes + clean and paint subframe and arms (2016) 18, Build new massive front splitter or diffuser (2017) 19, Build full flat floor (2017/2018) 20, Fit new FUCA's DONE 21, Front FIA section of the weld in cage (2017/2018) 22, New CD009 Gearbox DONE 23, Big brake kit (2018) 24, New big rad and fan system DONE 24, Fit dual oil cooler system Just thought id get my goals down on here to force me to do it lol.. Edited June 17, 2017 by djtimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) Not a small list but lot of progress have been done. Massive job Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Edited March 2, 2017 by Snjur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Small update. Managed to blag a free day at anglesey to do some testing on bank holiday Monday a few weeks back. - Car has FAR FAR better turn in and mid corner grip now with the extra negative camber from the new upper control arms. - Managed a decent dry lap time of 1:40.1 with a fair bit of traffic and bag fuel starve around the back straight that cost me 13mph in top speed! Logger says my best lap of all my escort times was a 1:39.00 which is not bad. I think it has more like 1:37.XX in it when all is working well as my brakes were soft and not giving me any confidence along with the diff being on its last legs IMHO, Inside wheel spin from most low speed corners - The motor is still overheating :( I even tried running with no bonnet just to see what effect this had. My next steps are, More ducting from intercooler to rad, another 25 Row Mocal oil cooler that will run in series I think with the current system and see how this fairs... - Need to look at the fuel system too as getting big fuel starve with half a tank is not good! I'll keep going ! ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted June 17, 2017 Author Share Posted June 17, 2017 Just Ordered the bits i need to convert my single 25 row local into a dual 25 row system. Im hopping this will help reduce oil temps buy at least 10C possibly 20C which should keep me under 100C on track. Fingers crossed this helps my coolant issues. Ill update when the bits arrive an I start to plumb the extra cooler in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 What is your oil temps on track currently Tim? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 What is your oil temps on track currently Tim? Up to 120C but have to back off due to coolant temps. I have seen 133C when NA though so guess this would keep going if coolant was ok. My theory is coolant seams closely linked to oil temp, I'll see if reducing oil temps causes coolant to follow it down? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Oil cooler bits have arrived! -12AN fittings (LARGE!) 25 row cooler core. Fitting in place I have also tested the motor for head gasket issues with a basic chemical block tester. This was placed in the swirl for and sniffs coolant for hydrocarbon. Test liquid stays blue if OK. Turns green or yellow if HG has failed. I did the test twice so fingers crossed all ok. These pics are AFTER so staying blue looks to me like all is ok. Fingers crossed my over heat issues are airflow, oil temp, or tune related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Cant see the pics Tim, please edit post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) What is your oil temps on track currently Tim? Up to 120C but have to back off due to coolant temps. I have seen 133C when NA though so guess this would keep going if coolant was ok. My theory is coolant seams closely linked to oil temp, I'll see if reducing oil temps causes coolant to follow it down? I know it's a different platform and setup, but i had the same issue last month at the Nurburgring in my E46 M3. Oil temps were below 120 (the manual says 80 - 120 is normal), but coolant was hitting red. I was going to do a bleed of the coolant to a different type. Edited June 30, 2017 by wizard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 On 6/30/2017 at 10:20, wizard said: Cant see the pics Tim, please edit post. Just realised this is a massive ball ache, he's put soo many up but obviously we can't see them now unless you click on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 I know it's been a while since last post......but I've just seen and caught up with this build! I'm doing some homework on 350z weight saving and found this build and have enjoyed reading about the tons of good work and hard graft that's gone into the car. Any idea what the weight of your half cage is? I actually saw you at Anglesey GP layout back in May '17......had a look around the car and it so well finished and tidy for a car that gets tracked which is always good to see and a credit to you and your commitment to it!! I didn't find you on the day to have a chat about the car but did see you on the way home and shared a thumbs up!! I was a bit dissapointed that I couldn't hang on to you round Anglesey but reading this thread and seeing you have 200 more hp plus 80kg weight saving I'm feeling much better about that now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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