Ekona Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Silly question, but would a thinner rad not be less efficient than a bigger one? Coming from a plumbing perspective, a bigger rad always gives off more heat which in an automotive application is what you want, more heat removed from the system. Or are you assuming the bonnet venting will make a bigger difference? Not being picky, more trying to improve my understanding of cooking systems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Silly question, but would a thinner rad not be less efficient than a bigger one? Coming from a plumbing perspective, a bigger rad always gives off more heat which in an automotive application is what you want, more heat removed from the system. Or are you assuming the bonnet venting will make a bigger difference? Not being picky, more trying to improve my understanding of cooking systems Basically I have worked out surface area for 3 different rad set ups.. The current 36mm 13-14FPI I have vs. 36mm Hyper core 17FPI vs. 53mm 13-14FPI. The thinner 36mm hyper V core is mid way between the 36mm normal core and the 53mm normal core. I can't be bothered showing all the working out but its not far off. Im fitting the bigger 53mm rad which has a surface area around 180m2 vs the 121m2 in my current system. The other benefit of the 53mm rd is high coolant volume. More volume stored in the rad with no change to coolant flow will allow coolant to sit in the rad longer than the 36mm versions. Im hoping this along with a map tweet and more shrouding + reducing the fan cut in temp will help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Perfect, thanks bud. Makes sense, and I trust your working out lol. Btw, I meant cooling not cooking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 (edited) More progress on the car today. I finally had time to pull the Rad and remove the old pulley etc. Few pics of the job Pulley that was about to be removed... Removed... Braket and pulley off.. Corner of brakes cut off and made into a spacer for the power steering pump. Weight removed.. 1.2KG (scale is off due to no bowl ontop soil reading a 130g low. As the rad was out and OEM fans were out I weighed these too! 3.9KG Minshmoto fans 3.4KG Inner Boot seal 0.9KG Weight loss for this = 2.8KG TOTAL WEIGHT LOSS SO FAR = 60.18KG DRY CAR WEIGHT = 1419.69KG Edited September 23, 2016 by djtimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 I have also removed the full AC system but didn't take any pics of the weights!! Doh... IIRC the total weight was 11.5KG... This was 9kg for the compressor 2kg for condenser and the rest was on bolts and mounts/lines. New passenger seat should get me under the 1400kg barrier soon! (Carbon boot/doors would see me around 1350kg!) Weight loss for this = 11.5KG TOTAL WEIGHT LOSS SO FAR = 71.68KG DRY CAR WEIGHT = 1408.19KG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Woow just went quickly over your thread. Awsome job! I have seen few ideas which i will steal Since you are seriously tracking your car, what is your impression of 2 piece rotors over oem or similar ebc. As this is my next upgrade im trying to find first hand reviews. I see you are doing a good homework on cooling. I went with Mishimoto performance rad together with fan shroud, low temp thermostat on my Greddy Twin Turbo and i had constant overeating problems. Went back to oem setup again and no more heating issues Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 Woow just went quickly over your thread. Awsome job! I have seen few ideas which i will steal Since you are seriously tracking your car, what is your impression of 2 piece rotors over oem or similar ebc. As this is my next upgrade im trying to find first hand reviews. I see you are doing a good homework on cooling. I went with Mishimoto performance rad together with fan shroud, low temp thermostat on my Greddy Twin Turbo and i had constant overeating problems. Went back to oem setup again and no more heating issues Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Hey man, I know you build is mega too so thanks! I have been reading about your over heat issues but I'm hoping this helps me.. If not ill have to buy an OEM rad to test with! For brakes your main gain from 2 piece disc's are unsprung weight reduction IMHO.. Feel is the same an daily comes from pad choice. Im running traded line, good fluid, stop tech aero rotors and carbon lorain RC5+ pads.. the only thing that really made a big deference to feel and bit was pads, Ive tried OEM brembo, DS2500, Performance Friction, and CL Rc5+. cold bit OEM pads are best as soon as you have heat in them CL pads are miles better than the rest.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) More weight loss today. Ditched the brake and battery covers... Looks crap goes faster. Weight of the cover and battery tray with some unused ground wire. Total weight loss for the covers and misc bit was 1.85KG Also fitted my short aux belt after the pulley delete but ended up removing the belt tensioner as it was seized solid and needed cleaning and oiling Weight loss for this = 1.85KG TOTAL WEIGHT LOSS SO FAR = 73.53KG DRY CAR WEIGHT = 1406.34KG Edited October 2, 2016 by djtimo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 New fan and Rad pack fitted yesterday! Custom welded AN fitting on lower tanks. Fully built up ready for install. Fitted! Loads more room for rad to exhaust now infant of the block. Car has been re-filled with 10% glycol 90% deionised water plus water wetter. All bled and running OK. Not been able to test it as it has no MOT ATM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Looking forward on results Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Will be doing a trackday soon as i can so will feedback info as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big rex 2 Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 This thread is awesome :-) I do love a good build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 This thread is awesome :-) I do love a good build thread. Thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) More progress this week and a large step backwards too So after the Rad pack and fans have been fitted the car was MOT'ed and taxed to allow me to drive to the tuners (TDi North) to have the map checked over as i suspected it was a little lean. Car arrived at TDi and was strapped down! Not much clearance on the splitter! Mapping. Few dyne plots. We did over 60 miles on the dyne and about 12-15 proper runs. So after a few test runs the car looked fine for fuel at full throttle but partial throttle (Ie. mid corner on track) was quite lean. The up rev set up is quite basic and does not allow live mapping so Mark@Abbey emailed my original map to TDi that allowed them to tweak the map before refreshing the ECU. The car after mapping was 5-7bhp down on before but running in a safer place for getting hot on track. The car did 505.6bhp in 4th and 553bhp in 5th gear on power runs. Car ran nice and smooth with issues and we also changed the cooling fan cut in temp in the ECU so the fans start running at 90C vs. the OEM 100C cut in point. So Now for the step backwards.... driving home about a mile off my house, I ran the car through 1st-2nd-3rd gear and just around 5k rpm in 3rd gear the car banged very loudly and lost drive. put it into 4th and all OK again... Slip back into 3rd which now had sync issues and let the clutch up caused massive banging and popping. 3rd gear is toast So now Im on the look out for a new CD00A/CD009 gear box to replace this one with! Thats Novembers trackways out the window!! Edited November 1, 2016 by djtimo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) 4th gear pull... http://s97.photobucket.com/user/djtimodj/media/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_40860619_134836_zpstieowuqz.mp4.html?o=0 Edited November 1, 2016 by djtimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) So yesterday as i could not drive the car I made a start on fitting my new passenger seat! OEM passenger seat was removed. I have used a steel seat base on the driver side but this is 4KG!! Passenger side is flat and easier to fab some Alu seat rails that weight a lot less and cost £12! Started with 2 x 800mm 1/4" flat bar stock. Bar cut down to length and drilled for mount points and front tip bent. Both rails mounted. OBP Alu side mounts bolted on.. Seat in place! OEM Seat weight 20.2kg New seat with mounts 12.2kg Weight loss for this = 8.00KG TOTAL WEIGHT LOSS SO FAR = 81.53KG DRY CAR WEIGHT = 1398.34KG Edited November 1, 2016 by djtimo 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Sad news for 3 gear. Same happened to a buddy when we where going to track day. Luckily we have spare gearbox and we already order repair kit for 3rd gear from CZP Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Little update! Sexy new clutch has arrived from Ash Robb! Xtreme 200mm sprung twin plate ceramic (Thats a mouth full lol) Along with a CD009 Gearbox which is on its way to me from Jon @ emperor tuning! Need to get this lot fitted ASAP when GB arrives and get the car on track! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 Few more goodies have arrived and are waiting to be fitted soon... Z1 motorsport race version camber arms SPL aluminium subframe bushes Z1 motorsport alu diff bushes ARP extended studs for the rear axel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 It's like Christmas every day for you. On a side note; I like your sink (definitely need to change mine in 2017). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted December 18, 2016 Author Share Posted December 18, 2016 It's like Christmas every day for you. On a side note; I like your sink (definitely need to change mine in 2017). HAHA this is a sink in the Utility room Sink in the kitchen is a nice black composite one! lol.. Stainless steel is better for washing car parts too hahahah 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 It's like Christmas every day for you. On a side note; I like your sink (definitely need to change mine in 2017). HAHA this is a sink in the Utility room Sink in the kitchen is a nice black composite one! lol.. Stainless steel is better for washing car parts too hahahah My kitchen sink is missing the half bowl in the centre which is great for washing your hands in. Definitely something I need to address next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Finally had a day to start the gearbox work! Sitting on pallet all dirty! All excess bits were removed including harmonic balancer weight and breather tubes. Cleaned for 2 hrs with wire brush and drill attachments, followed by hot water and brillig pads, then a final wipe down with clutch cleaner to degrease ready for paint. All masked up. Fist coat of etch primer on! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 You're painting the gearbox?! OCD much? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 You're painting the gearbox?! OCD much? Obviously your gonna paint the gearbox while its out! or is that just me?? lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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