djtimo Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Epic day in the car on Monday at Anglesey I was filming an invite only un-silenced supercar day and took the nissan along... Filling up with some nice V-Power on the way to the circuit. Managed about 6hrs on track which was great for free! I have some go pro footage which i sort out and upload soon too. The car did very well again apart from my overheating issues...Running the heater on full and not having windows that open make the cabin very hot .... lol... Temp strip on the transmission tunnel was reading over 55C!! When your passenger sports the track side tog lol.... The car did well against the big boys too having some great battles with a 745bhp SC V10 R8 (4 laps right on each other before he gave in!)a McLaren 650s (this was faster in the straights and better on the brakes than me)this gain a few car lengths a lap but if the driver cocked up i caught him up quickly and new 991 GT3. Nice shot from a mate who is a pro tog at the end of the day on the top end of the circuit. Another major highlight for me was to get a 16 laps in a BAC Mono My mate is there test driver and BAC brought one along to show off to potential customers so I managed to blag a go These are just over 500Kg 305bhp with aero and air shifted sequential gearbox! A real weapon! Being talked through how to get it in gear Clutch for first gear then no clutch after that Woooo Quick shot out on track.. The mono was amazing. Gearbox was unbelievable, brakes and grip were staggering central driving position is great and the feeling of you head in the wind just adds to the experience hugely. I WANT ONE..... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrLizard Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 cracking post m8 keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 So yesterday after giving the car a painting on track was a check over and see if i can cure this overheating issue finally. Car up on axle stands first! I fitted my other set of ARP wheel studs that came through from tarmac sportz. No pics as its the same as the other side I started by removing the APS over flow tank. Drained out and it had some crap in... I believe this is because it breaths to atmosphere and sucks dust in and out ? This has been washed out and refitted now. I am looking to do a rad flush with deionised water asap just to make sure though. Another little issue is the breather catch can sight glass is leaking and blowing oil mist out. Im thinking of changing to a new system that uses no PCV valve and bigger lines with a single can vented to atmosphere. This may help reduce my oil consumption as it reduces crank case pressure and helps blow by and turbo seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Absolute beast of a car. Zed goals!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fake ben taylor Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Overflow bottles do fill with crap from atmospheric breathing Catch cans ive seen some good looking ones but few actually work, I want to get one made soaybe we could get a couple done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Yeah ben im up for getting a single can system sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 More work today on my overheating issues.... I did a coolant Burp with a spill free funnel from the rad to see if I ha any air trapped in the coolant system. I did have a very small amount but nothing major... I think this is fro letting the expansion tank run empty tbf. I did some testing with the fans and swirl system. Ran the car from cold with the swirl cap off... Checked coolant flows back from turbo and rad, Turbo's retuned fine after they had warmed up but the rad did not return from the degassing line back to the swirl tank? I need to speak to Mark@abbey about this. I changed the swirl rad cap out for a new 1.3bar Carbing cap I had as a spare. Fans on the car cycled as the should, driver side fan running slow from 180F ish both fans on full at 213F and off again at 197F. I took the car out and gave it some on the road, all fine under normal load and brisk road driving but I lapped a set of roundabouts on very quite industrial estate to build temp in the coolant doing 2-3-4th gear pulls back to back and coolant got to 225F with in 4-5 mins and OEM gauge started to come off the mid point. One thing i did see was the car went from 185F-195/197F ish in a single 2-3-4th gear pull? It cools off in 10-15 seconds but that seams fast to me? Home from testing I made a start on pulling the plugs. Strut brace removed and mad pipe removed. Found a small issue here too.. Boost line to my boost solenoid had rubbed through.. This will have meant i was just on waste gate pressure I would have thought? Coil pack removed. All the Coils and plugs from the passenger side... Cylinder at front of motor near rad.. Middle. Back. All 3 plugs.. White electrodes from reading up indicate running Hot/Lean... I know the motor is running hot and my map from abbey has always been on the leaner side IMHO targeting 11.5AFR. I need to pull the other 3 plugs and see if any show signs of a blown or leaking head gasket tomorrow. If all plugs look the same ie. Hot/Lean Im fitting a low temp thermostat when it comes from Ebay and ill flush the rad out. Next moves are re-test the car for issues, Possibly have the map adjusted at TDI North (abbey north) to make it a little richer. More like 10.8-11AFR and see if that helps. If its still overheating I need a compression/leakdown test and pressure test the coolant system to check HG. Fingers crossed it not a HG leak as this a very costly on the zed and will be a motor out job Ill update as soon as i know more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Have you asked Zmanalex about cooling remidies, as I know that was an ongoing issue for him with his 650bhp+ roadster for some time on track but recall he had found ways to make it manageable? PM maybe? Nice write up and pics btw. EDIT: just found this for info ........if it is not something you have already http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107937-de-to-hr-coolant-upgrade-35000-now-sold/ Edited July 11, 2016 by Ebized 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fake ben taylor Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Sucks about the issues, my fingers are crossed it's not hg You didn't mention on whatsapp that the rad was returning to swirl pot? Seems odd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Have you asked Zmanalex about cooling remidies, as I know that was an ongoing issue for him with his 650bhp+ roadster for some time on track but recall he had found ways to make it manageable? PM maybe? Nice write up and pics btw. EDIT: just found this for info ........if it is not something you have already http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107937-de-to-hr-coolant-upgrade-35000-now-sold/ Ill drop him a PM and see if there is any thing else i need to look at Sucks about the issues, my fingers are crossed it's not hg You didn't mention on whatsapp that the rad was returning to swirl pot? Seems odd Yeah I know but i need to test that again when the car is done with a new thermostat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 Bit of GoPro footage from anglesey Watching coolant temps very of putting too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 That does look a bit on the lean side, i would richen up the map slightly, overall engine temp is influenced by combustion temps and friction, so this is the main reason your seeing overheat, what are you oil temps? and are they water cooled turbos? i would presume they are. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 Yeah i need to add a bit of fuel across the board i would have thought. Oil temps are a max of 120-122C, turbos are water cooled yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Are those temps with an oil cooler? is that a std rad, or is there an larger alloy job in there? its hard to see, that could be one reason you seeing high temps, coupled with the lean mix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Are those temps with an oil cooler? is that a std rad, or is there an larger alloy job in there? its hard to see, that could be one reason you seeing high temps, coupled with the lean mix. Yeas mate, 25 Row Mocal with good size -12 line to it. Oil I may be able to cool a little better with some more direct airflow via cutting another row of holes in the bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 UPDATE... So to continue on with my cooling issues I gone ahead and pulled the koyo rad and AC condenser along with the AC compressor and swapped in a new mishmoto low temp thermostat. Low temp stat.. Testing the new stat.... Im not fitting this to find out it does not work lol... Started to open around 70C on my tests... Said 68C on stat. After i was happy with the stat working well It was time to strip the rad out. OEM Fans were very difficult to remove due to clearance issues with APS TT pipework. I ended up cutting a small section out the OEM fan shroud plastic to get it out. Rad out! AC condenser out. Some fouling on the AC condenser so this will have been reducing air flow to the coolant rad. Kyoto rad was cleaned externally and back flushed with a hose to was out any deposits. View down where the rad pack used to sit. Thermostat and AC compressor out.... AC compressor put up a fight due to bad access but I won the battle lol.. AC out... Lots of room infront of the block with this lot out. New thermostat in place.. Sealed with an poem gasket and some new RTV silicon gasket. Car was then rebuilt, Bled using a funnel in the rad with front end up on a jack and massaging the rad hoses, all buttoned up and warmed up. Job went well! So i thought.... It was running rough as hell... After a short test drive (i though I may have had a wet connector) it was still bad. I ended up pulling all the plugs, swapping coil packs over, swapped all coil packs and plugs bank to bank and still not better!!! Long story short was i had got cylinder 4/6 coil pack leads the wrong way round.... STUPID lol... All sorted now and car running well.... Just waiting for a cider cable to come in the post to do some data logging, 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 What was the make of the short shifter that broke recently buddy? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 What was the make of the short shifter that broke recently buddy? Japspeed mate... stay well clear... Im on a full stainless torque solutions now and its MILES better... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Great progress buddy. Glad its all ok now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Great progress buddy. Glad its all ok now. All back together mate but still may have overheat issues. need to do some logging on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Fingers crossed that all your effort sorted it, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Im not too hopeful tbh as i may need a much larger rad for track work. Im still waiting to hear back off zmanalex on his motor set up to see what i can doo to mine. I do think richeing up the afr 0.5 points from 11.5 down to 11 may help along with the extra air flow and low temp stat maaaaaay help. Also looking at water injection etc etc. This is if the hg has not gone tho.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Do you run a EGT gauge on yours? i do wonder if the std N/A cam timing has a bearing on the combustion temps, as N/A will have a much higher overlap than a comparable turbo motor, so at high RPM/load its compounded with the N/A with a turbo, and add the slightly leaner afr and EGTs could be significantly higher, which will raise overall engine temps........but lets hope its a much easier fix. If your tracking it on a regular basis WI is definitely worth considering. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 I need to get it on a dyno and get a map tweek for sure. Im hoping this will reduce temps a small amount. Water injection is high on the list too.. Not looking to map for extra power just spray water/meth for extra cooling and det protection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Small update on the zed! After ordering a 53mm Koyo rad and being sent a 36mm crossflow hyper V core koyo rad I have done a fair amount of research on what is the best koyo set up. After 4 email's and messages to koyo with no reply I have given up. Feed back from koyo is terrible. Tarmac sportz have been great and have sent me the 53mm core I have ordered so I have ben able to take some pics and measure fin density on both rads. Koyo website sates they do a 48mm core with high fin density but i have not been able to order this even via feedback from the UK supplier!?!?!? 36mm crossflow koyo... After looking into rad design quite heavily this to me looks like a worse design than the down flow set up? Excluding higher fin count 53mm down flow koyo. 53mm vs 36mm 53mm core fins per inch is 13-14. 36mm Hyper V core is 17 fins per inch New mishmoto slim fans needed for the thick 53mm koyo set up Slim fans will be set up so both run all the time at two speeds, the slim set up should allow more room between the fans and the block to allow rad air to exit via the bonnet vents. My AC is now also removed which allows for better venting of the rad with out the AC compressor in place. Abbey motorsport have also sent me a cypher cable to do some data logging I have only had time for one very quick run in the car. I logged the run but have some how managed to lose the log From what i looked at I think the car is running a little lean which will also not help the cooling system load. When i get chance I will also weight the AC system and update the cars dry weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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