Vortech supecharging technical and reliability thread

[GT4 Zed]

Now that there is a growing number of Vortech owners here I feel we should have a thread to post up any reliability issues and solutions encountered and and technical mods that you have done to improve the vortech's reliability and performance.

I hope as it grows the mods may give it its own section to make it easy to find.

I'll be SC'ed now for a year and though under 5k miles I've driven the car hard and completed 2 trackdays at Bedford autodrome GT circuit so its a good measure so far of the durability of the kit.

Edited March 29, 2014 by GT4 Zed

[GT4 Zed]

To keep it tidy use the format below to make your report.

 

Issue:

 

Background:

 

Solution:

 

Pics:

 

[Lexx]

Pinned

 

Could we keep this thread on topic and with facts. It'll be a great resource to point people to when they consider FI.

 

Bennet - I assume you will be subscribing to this thread, if you see anything you think needs cleaning up then PM me

[GT4 Zed]

Issue: Failed smooth idler pulley bearing

 

Background: probably the result of over thightenning the serpentine belt. It had been increasingly noise for sometime and then I noticed a rusty dust on the mounting plate coming from it and at this point ordered new idler pulleys from vortech. It survived the track days and only last week started to fail badly. The noise was louder screeching then looking at the belt idling you could see the idler wobbling and spitting metal bits and at this point I had to swap it.

 

Solution: new idler from Vortech. I got three since the are three smooth pulleys on the Revup. I checked the rest and the were fine.

 

Pics:

Didn't take a pic when it was spitting rust dust and metal shavings but its the smooth pulley on the left.

 

Mashed up bearing. You could probably get these beading replaced if you know the part number but I could be bothered with the hassle.

 

Replaced close up

 

Voila. Changed serpentine belt to the strongest grippiest belt Gates makes at the same time. More to that later

 

 

 

[GT4 Zed]

Pinned

 

Could we keep this thread on topic and with facts. It'll be a great resource to point people to when they consider FI.

 

Bennet - I assume you will be subscribing to this thread, if you see anything you think needs cleaning up then PM me

 

Nice one lexx. You are the man.

Subscribed and posted already😇

[GT4 Zed]

Herewith link to vortech supercharger maintenance and care.

 

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/93.pdf

[The Chubby Ninja]

Maybe worth mentioning about the brass oil feed thingys? I don't have them as mine is a v3 but im sure some folk had bother with them splitting before

[evilscorp]

Issue: Oil dip stick too close to toothed pulley

 

Background: Never had an issue as when I installed the kit I was not happy with how close the yellow engine dip stick comes towards the toothed jackshaft pulley on the reverse of the vortech bracket.

 

Solution: Cable tie the dip stick to engine harness or an area which will not allow it to move towards certain doom! Can be a pain to check oil as you have to remember to thread it back through the cable tie when returning it into the block.

[GT4 Zed]

Ah yes my manðŸ‘.

 

Issue: Cracking std brass oil feed nozzle for engine oil fed supercharger head unit. I don't know if it was Sam mcgoo that crack but certainly loads of threads in US of this issue.

 

Background:

This is only required for V 1 , V2 and V7 as these are the types that fit the 350z kit. Most of us here have the V2 or V3. V3 is self lubricated with its own oil supply. My V2 T trim kit came with the brass upgrade from vortech as standard because the T Trim is HD. But the SC trim will have the brass nozzle.

If it crack within the headunit you are in @*!# as you will have to drill it out and hope not to cause damage.

 

Solution:

Get the SS nozzle from Vortech or any vortech trader.

 

Pics:

Std brass

 

SS nozzle:

 

Complete oil feed kit. I also replaced the brass T fitting which tees into oil sender and the engine. Do no weak points don't have pics but you just need to get a T price with the correct threads to match the brass peice.

Edited March 13, 2014 by GT4 Zed

[alexdax]

My V3 has + 1 year and 10.000km

all like new.

the only thing i realy do not like is the screaming sound it makes

[GT4 Zed]

My V3 has + 1 year and 10.000km

all like new.

the only thing i realy do not like is the screaming sound it makes

 

No doubt its a reliable unit and has been around and proven. However depending on your installation, setup, boost levels and usage a few gremlins can crop up which need addressing to keep everything sweet.

This is what this thread is about.

[Sam Mcgoo]

Ah yes my man������.

 

Issue: Cracking std brass oil feed nozzle for engine oil fed supercharger head unit. I don't know if it was Sam mcgoo that crack but certainly loads of threads in US of this issue.

 

Background:

This is only required for V 1 , V2 and V7 as these are the types that fit the 350z kit. Most of us here have the V2 or V3. V3 is self lubricated with its own oil supply. My V2 T trim kit came with the brass upgrade from vortech as standard because the T Trim is HD. But the SC trim will have the brass nozzle.

If it crack within the headunit you are in @*!# as you will have to drill it out and hope not to cause damage.

 

Solution:

Get the brass unit from Vortech or any vortech trader.

 

Pics:

Std brass

 

SS nozzle:

 

Complete oil feed kit. I also replaced the brass T fitting which tees into oil sender and the engine. Do no weak points don't have pics but you just need to get a T price with the correct threads to match the brass peice.

 

Yes it was me that had a brass oil feed nozzle crack. Luckily I found it when it was weeping before it gave up.

It was probably caused by the over tightening of the NPT fitting from the pipe to the nozzle. (previous owner)

 

 

Just to clarify in your write up above, it's the SS one that is the upgraded one, the brass one is the weaker one.

 

 

My V2 has been fitted since 2005 and done over 30k miles including 4 track days.

Edited March 12, 2014 by Sam Mcgoo

[GT4 Zed]

Oops!! Good spot Sam. Corrected on original postðŸ‘

[GT4 Zed]

Issue:

Boosting the crankcase when FI. Usually manifest as excessive smoking under heavy load conditions but also you can experince excessive deterioration of engine oil soon after service, excessive moisture in oil, failing seals and gaskets, rough running due to loss of piston ring seal, premature cylinder wall wear and reduced compression leading to reduced performance. This list goes on🙀

 

Background:

The OEM PCV( positive crankcase ventilation) system was designed for NA and is very effective to vent the crankcase of normal combustion blowby, moisture, other toxic/acidic oil and fuel fumes. It depends mostly on engine vacuum to evacuate the gases and allowing for fresh air to aerate the crankcase and recycling all these nastiness in the combustion cycle for emissions purposes. It's very efficient but in this configuration not optimal as the vented air contaminates your intake air and reduces your octane number but its a small price to pay. This is why you find oil in the lower plenum. The usual solution is to get an oil catch can to clean this air before it reaches the plenum. The PCV systems essential works through a special valve that is spring loaded and varies the flow of vented gas depending on engine load but the issue is when FI the is no more engine vacuum except on idle or very light engine load. All modern cars use the same system to vent the crankcase and the design for OEM FI cars too but with consideration of boost.

 

 

 

Once in boost the plenum pressure is high than crankcase and becuase the oem pcv valve is not an effective one way valve, you boost the crankcase making it impossible to vent so the gases have to find another way🙀. That's how the issues described above can occur! The easiest route is up past the rings into the combustion chamber and hence the typical excessive smoking which we like to think as normal due to running rich and being FI. The issue would even be more pronounced if your rings are a bit worn than normal giving off more blowby and higher crankcase pressures.

I knew about this when I did my initial research before Sc-ing and proceeded to vent the rear breather on the passenger side and the pcv valve on the front driver side vented via a baffled mini catch can back into the plenum. Darren, octet and i had this setup and I had hoped it would be enough and by venting into the plenum I would have no issues with oily fumes coming into the car as can be the case if you just vent to atmosphere.

 

 

 

But as mentioned already the pcv valve is ineffective and there is insufficient venting and in my case I still had smoking under heavy load. The original vortech recommendation is similar except the rear is vented into the intake pre SC. it's deals with the emissions but not adequate to vent the crankcase.

 

I looked into this again recently more closely and after reading loads of FI articles, pcv sytems and seeing what our cousin accross the pond on my350z where doing it was clear what was needed.

 

 

http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403905&styleid=69

 

http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/119-engine/68333-how-vent-your-crank-case-attn-fi-members-2.html

 

http://what-when-how.com/automobile/crankcase-emission-control-automobile/

 

Solutions:

There is one principle but several variations depending if you want to recirculate the vented gas into the plenum/ intake or just to atmosphere.

Venting both vent ports to atmosphere will be the most efficient and least restrictive but you may suffer with oily deposits to the engine bay around the mini filters and gets whiff of fumes into the cabin at certain times.

 

Solution1: vent both sides to atmosphere via a mini filter. Simples and cheap.

 

Solution 2: vent both sides to atmosphere via mini filter and cap of the plenum port. This solution is the cleanest and most performance oriented as per racing cars as no vented crap goes back into the engine but environmentally the worst. You can mitigate this with 1 or to oil catch cans (occ) on each side.

This is what ive done and so far i've not noticed any of the above issuesðŸ‘. I have driven the car extremely aggressively and for a week now ton remove post modification bias or "butt dyno effect" and the smoking under load has gone, the car feels and pulls like there are a few extra ponies now and most of all it runs and idles very cleanly. I did not expect this much of a change😎.

On a little note because this modification was done post tuning I'm running slightly richer as the unmetered air from the crankcase is no longer accounted for. I'll sort this out with a fine tune which I planned to do anyway with a few changes to my setup so no biggie. So bear in mind that any solution variation that caps the plenum will get you to run rich if you were tuned with the pcv venting into plenum and if you were venting to atmosphere are now vent back to the plenum then you will run lean. This can will happen if you do not follow the principles outlined here and create a boost leak from the plenum. You car will also run rough. As you are leaking metered air.

 

Solution 3: as above but drill the pcv for max venting and put a check valve to prevent breathing when in vacuum from the front vent though it shouldn't because the crankcase will always have more pressure than atmosphere at all times but I like security and also to preven backfire.

 

Solution 4: vent the rear to atmosphere and the front to into plenum as per OEM and put a check valve between.

 

Solution 5: as above with an occ between the front vent and plenum

 

Solution 6: as above with an occ to the rear between the rear breather vent and mini filter

 

Solution 7: as per solution 6 but vent back into the intake before the SC or turbo.

 

Solution 8 as per solution 4 and 5 but a tee connection after the occ and vent one line into the plenum with a check valve in between and the other line to atmosphere via a check valve and mini filter.

 

Solution 9 as per 8 but drill out the pcv for unrestricted venting and on the mini filter line also put a check valve. This would be my final setup once I get my super duper custom occ. this set up ensures ultimate venting from the crankcase and still allows the rear vent to breathe fresh air and the front to vent cleanly into the plenum under vacuum or only to atmosphere in boost with no way of boosting the crankcase as all the above solutions.

 

Solution 10 as per 9 but if I get some fumes smells add an occ to the rear vent between the filter and if this does not rid the smells then extend the piping so the mini filter lies low beneath the engine away from the cabin air intake on the passenger side. I doubt that would be necessary as the rear mostly breathes and with the front having no restrictions it will vent all the crap.

 

Solution 11: any other variation you can come up with so far as the principles are followed its your choice

 

Solution 12: do nothing and leave your pcv alone and watch your car underperform and eventually die. It's your money so your choice😇

 

Pics: current set up - Solution 2

 

Mini filter, 10mm reinforced oil/fuel hose, one way check valve.

 

Put together

 

Installed. The pipe with the yellow tape is the capped line into the plenum. I've order a countersunk hex plug to block the plenum(kinetix SSV v2) but if you have the OEM plenum just get a 9mm silicon cap off eBay and cap the lower plenum vacuum port off and secure it further with heat resistant take just in case you don't pop it off with mega boost. LoL! You would be fine. I'm at +15psi and I just put a bolt in the but of tubing and taped over it and no leak.

 

Rear breather with mini filter as per my initial SC set up. No oil residue around the engine bay. but it used to vent fumes into the cabin under boost as the crankcase became pressurised. No more smells now!

 

OEM Nissan one way check valve will be perfect too (used in the brake boosted pipe and clutch). It's 20quid from Nissan! The one I got from my motor factors is a fraction.

 

Few solutions from Uncle Sam's boys.

 

 

There are more but I've covered most of the variations on the solutions. There are some that just reverse the role of the vents which is fine too. Just but be mindful of the stupid setup that will surely will cause boost leaks or compromise venting🙀

 

I've got tons more pics but this should cover it. When I have time👀 I'll make some drawings to illustrate all my prised solutions.

 

To cap it all,

- crankcase venting is necessary when FI on our platform as its designed for NA.

- follow sound venting principles as described.

- you need a check valve to preventing back boosting

- keep it simple.

- Get the right parts for your set up.

- You may need a tune to get your AFR on target

- if you don't want to do any of this at least check your pcv is to clogged and not even working as that worse. Same to you NA boys though its not a big an issue.

 

Parts list:

 

10mm or 3/8" and 15mm or 5/8" reinforced oil fuel hose for the front and rear.

 

9mm and 15mm mini filter for front and rear.

 

High quality one way check valves

Baffled occ that will separate the oil from fumes. The Rutland mini occ works well but the lower drainage seal has failed twice on me probably due to it being boosted then but rather try it I gone for a proper proven item.

 

If you intend to drill the pcv then get a new pcv incase you want to revert. It's $12 in US so suspect 12-15quid from Nissan.

 

I have an order in progress with my us contact so if you want these parts I can help but expect them in the next 2 weeks due to backorder on some other stuff I've ordered

Edited March 28, 2014 by GT4 Zed

[Vlad]

Issue: Oil dip stick too close to toothed pulley

 

Background: Never had an issue as when I installed the kit I was not happy with how close the yellow engine dip stick comes towards the toothed jackshaft pulley on the reverse of the vortech bracket.

 

Solution: Cable tie the dip stick to engine harness or an area which will not allow it to move towards certain doom! Can be a pain to check oil as you have to remember to thread it back through the cable tie when returning it into the block.

 

I just bent my slightly other way and no cable ties needed

Edited March 28, 2014 by Vlad

[Sam Mcgoo]

That PCV info is an interesting read Bennet.

 

My current set up is as your option 5 with a occ between bank 1 cam cover and Kinetex SSV. And a mini K&N filter to atmosphere (located near the S/C) from bank 2 as seen below.

 

 

 

As far as I know I'm not having any problems with the current set up, no smoke etc... So not sure I need to alter it much. Maybe putting a check valve in to stop the boost going back through the PCV valve.

 

Out of interest, does the PCV valve not require to be connected to a vacuum in order to suck out all the bad stuff? So just venting them to atmosphere surely won't do as good a job?

[wizard]

Bennett you are such a nerd!!

 

I will write something more meaningful later lol

[GT4 Zed]

That PCV info is an interesting read Bennet.

 

My current set up is as your option 5 with a occ between bank 1 cam cover and Kinetex SSV. And a mini K&N filter to atmosphere (located near the S/C) from bank 2 as seen below.

 

 

 

As far as I know I'm not having any problems with the current set up, no smoke etc... So not sure I need to alter it much. Maybe putting a check valve in to stop the boost going back through the PCV valve.

 

Out of interest, does the PCV valve not require to be connected to a vacuum in order to suck out all the bad stuff? So just venting them to atmosphere surely won't do as good a job?

 

Hey Sam your set up is ok except you need a check valve to stop boosting the crankcase.

You will not alway see smoke unless you have excessive blowby meaning your rings are a bit worn. Also the breather/vent near the SC from bank 2 would've help to vent while on boost. But not as adequately if you were vent both to atmosphere.

The pcv does not rely on vacuum to pull the gases out or the crankcase as the crankcase is always at a higher pressure than the plenum in vacuum or atmosphere so the gases will flow out. The issue is when you go into boost the plenum is higher and the check valve is not a true one way valve so boost goes in.

 

The only way you can demonstrate you don't have a problem is to log your crankcase pressure in FI and this done by our US brothers hence the need to provided adequate venting and stopping crankcase boosting.

 

The reason why the gases are sent into the plenum is for emissions purely.

[GT4 Zed]

Bennett you are such a nerd!!

 

I will write something more meaningful later lol

 

Look who's talking.

Thanks for the reply to your questions earlier😜

[The Chubby Ninja]

Bennett you are my hero. I have the standard setup and have been using oil and a little bit smokey under boost.i thought my rings were away but I have no smoke or leaks so was stumped. I think I may have my solution! Thanks mate I'm a happy man now 😊

[alexdax]

Edited July 16, 2014 by alexdax

[alexdax]

this is my setup but still tooooo much smoke and smell from the engine...

do you think the chek valves eliminate this?

[alexdax]

bump

[GMballistic]

bump

Hi Alex, can't answer your question sorry but the best person who could is probably GT4 Zed or at least give you some ideas. He's not on here as often nowadays but if you hover your cursor arrow over his name you'll see the "send message" icon.

Best off sending him a PM as that way it will go to his email as well and you're more likely to get a response.

[alexdax]

after consulting some friends and some literature i realise that the crank gases use some vacuum, i think my mistake was nor to conect the vacum to the oil catch can.

i will do it and see