The ilogikal1 test thread

[ilogikal1]

 

That is all.

 

 

For today.

[GMballistic]

Just awesome, ...fantastic pictures & write up.

[Ekona]

I just wish you'd put more details and photos into these write ups. A bit more effort wouldn't go amiss, now would it?

 

[glrnet]

Exactly!! Another half hearted effort.😄

 

 

Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

[ilogikal1]

I know, I'm just lazy. I'll try to remember to get more pictures next time.

[ilogikal1]

For those wondering, this is how GTechniq C5 holds up on a car that's done <1000 miles and haven't been cleaned in 2 months.

 

Excuse the photo quality, I forgot to pick up the camera so these were taken with my phone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, at the back.

 

 

 

Some ugly wheel weights.

 

 

 

Not terribly great at that self cleaning thing then. However, a quick rinse with the hose saw very little difference actually, but it's my own fault for being too lazy to get the pressure washer out. A somewhat less quick wash using Wheel Woolies and shampoo though... well that did this very easily;

 

 

Clean and beady again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beading and the, if anything, even more impressive sheeting still shows there's still plenty of protection on there. This was no more evident when cleaning the wheels, once they were wet all it took was literally just a wipe over and a rinse and they were spotless again. No scrubbing, no (expensive) dedicated wheel cleaners (in fact no chemicals of any kind was actually needed, I only used shampoo to help reduce the chances of marring the surface), just water and shampoo.

 

I use the term "spotless" quite deliberately because I'm sure some of you will remember the issues I had with the Slick Rims coating. Since trying Slick Rims nothing as changed on the wheels or brakes except the LSP and yet... not one single spot on C5. In fact, not even the suggestion of spotting, which was nice.

 

C5 may not keep your wheels immaculately clean indefinitely, although I'd argue that the wheels would have been worse with nothing protecting them, but if you're looking for something that'll make cleaning them a lot easier then you can do worse than C5. Again, these haven't been cleaned in 2 months and and there has been absolutely zero change in the water behaviour since application, so it's already outlasted a number of wheel (or "rim", if you like) waxes.

[ilogikal1]

Also

For those struggling to keep up with the infrequent updates, a brief summary so far for you;

 

Auto Finesse Iron Out beat Wolf's Decon (which had beaten AM Details Iron, which had beaten Koch Chemie. Something also beat Nanolex, I forget what though).

 

Car Chem Revolt beat Gyeon Iron.

 

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller beat GTechniq W6.

 

CarPro Iron X Snow Soap is s**t.

 

Bilt Hamber Korrosol beats CarPro Iron X (which had beaten CarPro Iron X LS).

 

Therefore the remaining semi-final contestants are;

 

Auto Finesse Iron Out.

Car Chem Revolt.

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller.

Bilt Hamber Korrosol.

 

There's probably another 2 dozen or more products that I've not got hold of to try yet, but unless someone wants to send me some it's unlikely that I'll be buying any more in the near future. With that in mind I'm narrow those four down.

 

First up, Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller takes on Bilt Hamber Korrosol;

 

 

Applied, left for 1 minute, photos occured;

 

 

 

 

 

Not a huge reaction, but I blame C5 for that TBH. Still, there were a few sources of reaction so DJ FD was left to dwell for a total of 5 minutes before being rinsed off. Meanwhile, on another wheel;

 

 

Again, sprayed on, left for 1 minute before photos were taken;

 

 

 

 

Slightly more of a reaction but again not a huge amount. Definitely holding C5 to account for that. This was also left for a total of 5 minutes before being rinsed.

 

They then swapped wheels;

 

 

And almost immediately (as in less than 5 seconds)

 

 

 

And closer to a minute after application;

 

 

So picking up some still. This was left for a total of 5 minutes but it was much the same story throughout.

 

Meanwhile;

 

 

Immediately... nothing happened. After a minute...

 

 

 

 

 

Aaaaand, nothing. At all. The only reaction came from the rusty weights and the brake disc. Even after 5 minutes.

 

So a conclusive first semi-final sees a big win for Bilt Hamber Korrosol.

 

 

Incidentally, I haven't touched the passenger side wheels with anything other than shampoo this time, hopefully that'll mean that come August/September/October/2018/whenever I do the next one, there'll be that little bit more fallout to remove for the competitors. I mention this more for my benefit than yours though.

[Stutopia]

Wheels looked in good nick after the wash. Is there really anything out there that is "self cleaning" or actively repells dirt. I think easy cleaning is the best you can ever hope for?

[ilogikal1]

Wheels looked in good nick after the wash. Is there really anything out there that is "self cleaning" or actively repells dirt. I think easy cleaning is the best you can ever hope for?

 

To be honest, on wheels, the best you can hope for is easy to clean. Due to the extremes that wheels go through, heat cycles, proximity to the road, often going through filthy puddles as well as exposure to usual weather that everything else is exposed to, not to mention the obvious exposure to both hot and cold brake dust there's nothing that can repel all that without help. Most good coatings will offer some resistance to most/all of that but it's like trying to stop a boat sinking with a pint glass really.

[Humpy]

WOW! what a thread Only on page 5 and now got the kettle on ready for the next 22 odd pages.

 

Epic thread and creating a list of goods to buy

 

EDIT: Only on page 15, think my brain may pop

Edited January 10, 2017 by Humpy

[ilogikal1]

It all goes downhill after page 5 too....

[ilogikal1]

Quick update for those wondering, it seems May was the last time I threw any LSP's at the car - I hadn't realised it'd been that long! - at which time the headlights were coated with C5. I can now confirm that it lasts about 8 months on the headlights (but longer on the bit of paint I overlapped on) as my headlights now need another polish.

 

View is suffering a bit by now, but I've done no more than one wash since May (?!) So it might just need a deep clean. I suspect it's probably gone by now though.

 

Mohs was holding up very well, as I said one wash in 10 months and it's still evidently protected. It's filthy now, but there's still signs of it working well under the dirt.

 

Those of you who follow me on Instagram will know why I'm not washing it any time soon, those of you who don't will have to wait. It'll probably be about May again though.

[Stutopia]

One wash???

[ilogikal1]

One wash???

 

Yep. And that was in July !!!

 

The last time I could bring myself to go to Hull.

[Stutopia]

One wash???

 

Yep. And that was in July !!!

 

The last time I could bring myself to go to Hull.

 

The bridge is incredible and the old city centre is highly commendable. #underratedcity

[ilogikal1]

Try living there, the city centre loses its appeal and the bridge is only good because it's the route out of there!

[ilogikal1]

So, I return to my car one night to find this;

 

 

Parked on the road, in a reasonably quiet street. No note was left. No signs of the offender in the vicinity. No CCTV footage. No neighbours saw or heard anything.

 

In the cold light of day, before it went off to be fixed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

One was... displeased. Miffed even.

 

A phone call to the insurance and they made it worse...

 

 

...for a 10 days. Not only was the "courtesy" car (I think we need to discuss the definition of courtesy) a wheezy little Micra, it was a sodding automatic wheezy little Micra!

I'm moaning but in truth I did appreciate not being left without at car at any point, even if it wasn't exactly an interesting temporary replacement. Bloody horrid thing to drive though. For some reason it had a rev counter on the dashboard... I still haven't worked out why you'd need, or even want, one on an auto, but it was there. Red line at 6,500 revs. Never did manage to get it above 2,500, no matter how hard I tried. Horrid little thing!

 

Anyway today, this;

 

 

 

Also got the front end tidied up whilst it was in, so bumper, bonnet and both front wings have been done as well. Which solves that lacquer peel issue.

 

I have to admit my first impression is very positive. There's a bit of over-spray on the bonnet struts (both sides) and at the front of the engine bay, they've also replaced the fixtures for the arch liners at the front with shiny new bolts which may or may not bug me to replace with something more OEM at some point (but as they're under the car, they're not noticeable unless you're lying in front of the car). Nothing major though and I know they rushed the front end work a little more than the rear arch to get it back to me on my time-scale. The colour match looks to be pretty good, but I'll take a good look at that when the sun comes out again, similarly the finish looks to be pretty good too which is hopefully more an indication of their polishing skills rather than the use of filler-heavy products but again time and/or proper light will tell.

 

Everything that hasn't been painted could do with a quick wash now (inside and out is a bit dusty) but even though the paint was baked, I'll now be letting it gas out for a couple of weeks before I consider doing any detailing on it.

Edited March 18, 2017 by ilogikal1

[Stutopia]

Gutted for you on the noteless impact, not to mention the discourtesy car, hopefully karma will do its thing to the perp.

 

Repair looks good though

[ilogikal1]

It'll probably be about May again though.

 

Under normal circumstances I'd say I told you so. But, as I have told you so with such vehemence and frequency already the phrase has lost all meaning. Therefore, I will be replacing it with the phrase, I have informed you thusly. [/sheldon].

 

For those struggling to keep up with the infrequent updates, a brief summary so far for you;

 

Auto Finesse Iron Out beat Wolf's Decon (which had beaten AM Details Iron, which had beaten Koch Chemie. Something also beat Nanolex, I forget what though).

 

Car Chem Revolt beat Gyeon Iron.

 

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller beat GTechniq W6.

 

CarPro Iron X Snow Soap is s**t.

 

Bilt Hamber Korrosol beats CarPro Iron X (which had beaten CarPro Iron X LS).

 

Therefore the remaining semi-final contestants are;

 

Auto Finesse Iron Out.

Car Chem Revolt.

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller.

Bilt Hamber Korrosol.

Then

 

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller takes on Bilt Hamber Korrosol;

*snip*

So a conclusive first semi-final sees a big win for Bilt Hamber Korrosol.

 

Incidentally, I haven't touched the passenger side wheels with anything other than shampoo this time, hopefully that'll mean that come August/September/October/2018/whenever I do the next one, there'll be that little bit more fallout to remove for the competitors. I mention this more for my benefit than yours though.

 

So just the 10 months since I last cleaned it (!!!), should see plenty of fallout on all the wheels... moreso the two which haven't seen a fallout remover in a year.

 

So with that in mind... I've introduced another 2 contestants for this round.

 

First up we have;

 

 

Standard prep resumed - foamed the entire car (Car Chem Snow Foam) wheels and all followed by a thorough rinse. Then I broke out the shampoo (some Waxybox sample... yes, I'm still working my way through those!) and Wheel Woolies and another rinse. Then on with the fallout removers.

 

First up, Bilt Hamber Korrosol, which did this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile on another wheel, OCD Finish Purple Haze was doing this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A strict 7 minutes and 8 seconds (ish) after application, they were both rinsed and then each product swapped wheels.

 

On the previously Purple Hazed wheel, Korrosol did this;

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile on the previously Korrosol'd wheel, Purple Haze did this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

So... er... there you have it...? A draw!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, not quite. I quickly realised that the wheel the Korrosol started on was the front wheel that hasn't seen a fallout remover in a year, so suspecting that there was just a f**ktonne of fallout on the wheel, I opted for another round. On both wheels. Purple Haze went back to it's original wheel, as did Korrosol.

 

Korrosol did this;

 

 

 

 

 

Whilst Purple Haze did this;

 

Nothing.

 

Then both swapped wheels again and Korrosol did... nothing. Meanwhile Purple Haze also did nothing again.

 

Therefore I give the win to Bilt Hamber Korrosol. But it's not the most convincing win of ever, and I have to admit I'm pleasantly surprised by OCD Finish Purple Haze, due to this I will be putting Purple Haze up against the other two that have made it this far. I'll be doing a top three (in order most effective) and I suspect we may potentially be looking at podium finish for this rank outsider.

[ilogikal1]

The other match up of the day saw;

 

 

Now it should be noted that I... "dislike" Autobrite Direct and the whole way they conduct themselves. So I made a point of not buying this from them. And I paid less for it as a result. Also in the spirit of full disclosure, I'm hoping this is, like most of their other products, s**t.

 

So on with the test!

 

Autobrite Direct Purple Rain 2.0 did this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile Auto Finesse Iron Out was doing this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rinsing occurred, then our contestants swapped wheels in the usual way.

 

On the previously Purple Rain 2.0'd wheel, Iron Out did this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile on the previously Iron Out'd wheel, Purple Rain 2.0 did this;

 

 

 

 

 

Virtually nothing... okay, it picked a bit up on the calliper, managed to react with both the brake disc and the iron wheel weights but I saw no evidence of it doing anything else.

 

Auto Finesse wins hands down.

 

 

 

Therefore, in an attempt to narrow down the offerings, this leaves me with one more than I started with... oh well. Still in the game are;

Bilt Hamber Korrosol,

Car Chem Revolt,

Auto Finesse Iron Out,

and further investigation warranted from OCD Finish Purple Haze.

 

Tune in for the next exciting episode some time in... the future. Fast & Furious 11 will probably be out before that. So probably in 6 months time.

[Stutopia]

What's caused you to rotate your turret toward Autobrite?

[ilogikal1]

What's caused you to rotate your turret toward Autobrite?

 

Amazon Prime mainly.

 

There's a few more on the list that I want to try at some point, with the infrequent opportunities to try them these days means I can spread the costs and tick some more off. I'd like to say this will be a definitive test, but there's always going to be something I don't get hold of so I'm just aiming for as many as possible.

 

That and any opportunity to demonstrate how mediocre some products actually are.

[ilogikal1]

Aside from turning wheels (and driveways...) purple, I also did some stuff to the rest of the car. This was the first clean I've done since having some paint thrown at it and my time ended up being even more limited than the limited time I intended to spend on it. As a result, I didn't get to do half the stuff I wanted to but the main focus of this was primarily to lay down some protection on the paintwork, especially the fresh paint and to tidy up the interior that had gotten a bit dirty & dusty whilst in the body shop. It also gave me a chance to become somewhat more acquainted with the work carried out on the car.

 

For those who care; the quarter panel and rear bumper section that they took their time on is almost perfect - the colour match is absolutely spot on and there's no visible indication of where their work ends and the original paint continues. There's just one small remark on the paintwork there, and that is that there is minor marring where it's not been perfectly polished - still considerably better than some brand spanking new cars I've seen mind you, and it's nothing more than I'd expect after a few washes anyway so minor was it.

The front bumper however is slightly different. This was rushed somewhat due to a "miscommunication" and it shows in the result. Again, the colour match is spot on and the blending into the existing paint is also perfect (wings and bonnet were also done, and all three panels are the same as the rear section - i.e. minor marring but nothing more than that. Under the bonnet, there are localised areas of over-spray though). Just on the front bumper though, there's several small areas of minor orange peel to go with the marring. It's nothing I can't sort out myself, given the time, though and even with this it's still considerably better than it was before. If I'm honest, the defects are so insignificant that the vast majority of people wouldn't ever notice, it's just because I'm such a perfectionist and my hobby just happens to be detailing that I've picked up on it. It does mean I'll have to break out the machine polisher though, so I may actually have to make the decision between the Flex or the Rupes to upgrade to now.

 

TL;DR - the paintwork I had done is very good but not quite perfect and I'm trying to justify a new machine polisher as a result.

 

Anyway, for the spring clean, the process was;

Snow foamed with the remaining Car Chem Snow Foam in the bottle.

Wheels washed with shampoo & wheel woolies.

Wheels decontaminated.

Bug splatter removed with Car Chem Citrus Cleaner (front bumper only - because baked on bug carcasses on unprotected paint is not a good combination, everywhere else the snow foam was enough to remove).

Snow foamed again with Gyeon Foam.

Wash - 2 bucket method, Microfibre Madness Incredipad & Car Chem Shampoo (Detailing World Awards limited edition jobbie, for those interested).

Clayed - CarPro Clay Cloth with the aforementioned Car Chem shampoo and Gyeon Foam as lube.

Left to dry.

Wipe down with Gyeon Prep.

3 coats of Gyeon CanCoat.

Tyres dressed with Gyeon Tire (sic).

Glass cleaned inside & out with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner, Maguires Glass Cleaner.

Glass then treated to Gyeon View.

 

Interior was wiped down with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner Nanolex Interior Cleaner and dash dressed with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner... er... something. I've forgotten now.

Seats, gear knob & steering wheel cleaned with Dr Leather Wipes.

Seats protected with Gyeon Leather Coat.

 

Another TL;DR - I cleaned stuff.

 

PICTURES!!

 

Started off with this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then snow foaming happened... I think this is the first round, so Car Chem Snow Foam.

 

 

After nothing more than foam and a rinse, this was the state of the wheels;

 

 

 

 

 

Then the Wheel Woolies and shampoo came out to play, leaving this;

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see there's a bit of beading left but the water is still sheeting off very well, so I'm pretty happy that the GTechniq C5 applied a year ago is still going. This sheeting only got better with each stage of the clean (and was still exceptionally impressive after the fallout removers), as such I've not added any further protection to the wheels this time round.

 

Then I stopped taking pictures for a while because... well I just didn't want to frankly.

 

 

As I mentioned though, this time round I opted for Gyeon CanCoat for the LSP. This is primarily because wanted some good protection laid down, but also because I wanted a fair amount on gloss without the time (or inclination) to polish (because I was being lazy) and also because I wanted to try the newest delivery method for CanCoat. So with that in mind, here's a brief interlude for a review...

Edited May 20, 2017 by ilogikal1

[ilogikal1]

Gyeon Q2 CanCoat then. The new one. That's the new, new, new, new one (I think...). The one with the pump action spray heads rather than the aerosol version.

 

This one;

 

 

 

 

If you've read this thread and have a good memory you'll know that I tried the aerosol version. For the most part, I liked the results and the application wasn't too bad but it did suffer badly from clogging and wasted product.

This version is the latest attempt to resolve that. As you can see it comes with two removable pump action spray heads, some instructions to keep them working, a bottle of CanCoat (really should be renamed now IMO) with a proper lid and even it's own cloth.

Instructions are quite straight forward;

 

You should apply GYEON Q2 CANCOAT in a dry place out of direct sunlight. In all cases, prepare the surfaces you are going to treat in the normal way (wash > decontaminate > polish), and then do a wipe down with GYEON Q2M PREP to ensure that they are spotlessly clean. For best results, lightly spray a Meguiar's Microfibre Applicator Pad or a PB Deluxe Buffing Towel with GYEON Q2 CANCOAT and wipe a thin, even film of product over a single panel at a time before buffing off with a fresh microfibre towel. Alternatively, spray GYEON Q2 CANCOAT directly onto a single panel at a time and immediately wipe the panel down to spread a thin, even film of product using a PB Deluxe Buffing Towel. Then refold the towel and buff the panel down carefully to fully remove the film and reveal an intense streak-free shine. Either way, you should aim to complete all of the buffing off within 1-2 minutes, i.e. before the coating begins to harden.

 

After all panels are treated, wait for a minimum of an hour and then apply a second coat (when we work with GYEON Q2 CANCOAT we typically apply 2-3 coats back to back, as the resulting finish is awesome in terms of looks and durability). The car must then be left in a warm, dry place out of direct sunlight for a minimum of 4 hours to allow the SiO2 coating to harden (if you wish, you can accelerate this process by heating the treated panels to 60°C for 10 minutes using an infra-red heat lamp). Finally, to reduce the risk of water spots forming while it continues to cure (full curing takes around 24 hours to achieve), you should apply a protective top coat of GYEON Q2M CURE (you should also avoid washing the car with any kind of detergent for the first 7 days). Note that you must flush the spray head with hot water after each use; failure to do so will result in any product residue left in the spray head hardening and blocking it.

 

 

There are two things in the box that I didn't use at all. Firstly, I didn't use the cloth. Largely because I used other cloths (800gsm edgeless jobbies if you must know) but also because I didn't use this cloth.

 

I applied three coats - instructions are to leave at least 1 hour between coats, I left several more because life kept getting in the way. And by life I mean doughnuts. Because doughnuts. Have you hard about doughnuts? They're very distracting. Doughnuts! Anyway...

The other thing I didn't use was the second spray head. I intentionally used the same spray head each time. Now remember the doughnuts? We're talking 23 and 16 hours between coats. As above, CanCoat cures fully in 24 hours, so if any clogging were to occur, I'd expect it to be evident by the second coat, let alone the third.

 

I am glad to announce that by following the instructions, there was absolutely no clogging at all. All I had to do was run some warm water through the spray head (largely by sticking the pick-up tube in some hot water and pumping the spray head a few times until I was bored and/or satisfied that it was washed out properly.

 

So that resolves one issue with the original CanCoat. The other issue being wasted product. With a pump action spray head, it's much, much easier to minimise this. The product is still atomised, so if you hold the cloth too close there's still some fallout that "bounces" off the cloth so to speak but conversely if you hold it too far away the spray pattern dictates that an amount will miss the cloth entirely. You have to be really special not to quickly get to grips with that though. The other potential flaw is how much product to load the cloth with - actually no different to any other product though, in fairness - but again with good lighting (and good lighting is essential!) it's fairly obviously when you're using too much product as you spread it over the desired area. I found 2-3 pumps was more than sufficient for the areas I was doing, but no more than 4-5 would be needed to treat an entire door panel or half a bonnet in one go.

 

It's just as easy to use as the aerosol version, it spreads quite far and despite being a touch grabby when it reaches near 90 seconds before buffing, it's still remarkably easy to buff - you just have to ensure that you're getting a good streak-free finish before moving on but I found an initial quick once over with the buffing cloth followed by a more thorough and meticulous going over virtually guarantees a streak-free finish. I say virtually because I missed a bit on overlapping sections because I was rushing and because the lighting wasn't good enough frankly.

 

As usual I'd recommend against using this outside where you can't control the environment and certainly not in direct sunlight as it will reduce working time significantly. Working time in the shade on a cool panel is a good few minutes, which is ideal for getting a great finish, so reducing this is just asking for trouble.

 

In terms of finish, like any glass coating, CanCoat adds tremendous amounts of gloss and really helps to show off the flake in metallics. Once cured, it's also exceptionally slick to the touch and as I'd come to expect from Gyeon and from coatings, the beading is just something else. Oh and the self-cleaning is pretty damn epic too; after the 200 mile return leg there were further bug casualties. The evidence of which have been almost entirely removed by nothing more than a bit rainfall during and after the journey. No need for foam and/or citrus cleaner (which is just as well because I've run out of the latter).

 

In summary; CanCoat is now the product it was always meant to be. It is the easiest "proper" coating available and I now wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone.

[ilogikal1]

Oh, what, you wanted "after" pictures?

 

Fine!

 

Just remember that I've not polished this at all, there's marring, birds**t etching on the bonnet and even water-spots all over the place. I just wanted to get something on the unprotected paint... especially as the local birds have been using my car as target practice of late. B*****ds!

 

 

 

A bit that I f***ed up by the 350Z badge. Should provide a nice reference point to visibly see how long CanCoat lasts though, so there's that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That concludes the shiny.

 

And now for the beads. Actual, real beads this time an' all. And after a 200 mile trip in both wet and dry, so this is technically on a dirty car...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is all.