ilogikal1 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I misremembered big numbers. It's only 110 miles, which makes all the difference obviously. Unfortunately, living in the back of beyond in Wales, you only have to drive 5 miles for it to resemble your 140 mile trek. What with all the cow $hit on the road and added salt, every journey beyond the gate, results in a very dirty zed. I'm glad I don't have to travel every day in her, as it would be really frustrating keeping her clean. Ahhh well, spring will soon be here with salt free roads, but still trying to dodge the cow $hit That's after just the second time it's left the drive since it was clean, and most of it was from this one journey. No cow **** though... plenty of road salt, mud, horse **** & general grubbiness of the yokels, but no cow ****. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 All clean again so time for a 3-days-out-of-the-garage-110 mile-jaunt-one-wash-later update. First up MadCow Ultra Violet on the front wings. Now you know how they say first impressions are everything? "They" lie! First impressions of this were good. Very good in fact. Second impressions... not so much. It appears to have vanished with the traffic film after just the one wash. This currently places UV firmly in the QD category for me - it leaves a great finish when it's first applied, but it simply doesn't last. To put it in contrast, here it is compared to Dodo Juice Supernatural Acrylic Spritz on the door. Also compared to Gyeon Cure on the other door. Yes I noticed that patch on Cure too. The rest of it seems good though. As was Acrylic Spritz on the other side. Car Chem Hycro Coat & PTFE Glaze doing well too. The waxes on the bonnet don't have much left in them though. All are suffering in terms of beading but seem to be holding in there. Sheeting is a different matter though, however due to the battery in the camera deciding it had, had enough there are no pictures of that. Dead battery swapped out for a fresh one and we have; Edition 18 - sheeting has slowed and is inconsistent over the section but is still present in part. Vitreo - sheeting is moderate and relatively consistent with just the front edge suffering at the moment. Graphite/unlabelled stuff - very similar to Vitreo but more consistent over the full section still. Edition 19 - sheeting has basically given up across the whole section now. Edition 20 (lighter one? I can't remember any more!) - sheeting is on par with 18 with similar inconsistency across the section. Edition 20 (whatever the last one was, this is the other one ) - sheeting is fairly consistently poor over the section now, marginally better than 19 but not convincing. So 8 weeks in for these waxes, 19 & lower 20 are pretty much dead, upper 20 and 18 are fairly compromised, Graphite/unlabelled pot & Vitreo are starting to fade. Edition 21 on the bumper is looking like a wax that's 7 weeks younger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) At the other end of the car. DJ Acrylic Spritz, Gyeon Cure and Nanolex Reactivating Shampoo look like this on the boot; The visible difference between the three products is less noticeable today, although that could be because the water from the roof & rear window above the Nanolex strip insisted on running off right down the Nanolex strip every time, so that could be hiding the difference a little bit. All three are sheeting very well still though (barring that one small patch on the front of the Cure side). Cure looks like this; DJ Acrylic Spritz looks like this; Nanolex Nanowax on the rear bumper is holding up well, sheeting is still very good and beading looks like this (compared to Cure on the quarter panel); The beading of Cure, CC PTFE Glaze, Hydro Coat & G1 on the glass for comparison; Beading comparison of DJ Acrylic Spritz to Hydro Coat, PTFE Glaze and G1; Nanolex Trim Rejuvinator on the grille; Hubikote HubiTrim side of the grille; Incidentally, I managed to lose one of the Waxybox foam finger applicators behind the grille when applying the HubiTrim. It sprung out the back of the grille somewhere near the middle, presumably onto the undertray beneath... Despite my best efforts, I've still not found it. Even Maxolen Multimax on the badge has outlasted Ultra Violet. Gyeon Tire is holding up well on the tyres as is FK/Dr Beasley's on the exhaust and the Wolf's stuff on the wheels too - all meant that the relevant parts were clean after the snow foam. In case anyone was wondering, I went for Hydro Coat on the skirts but didn't use the PTFE Glaze under it like I did on the roof (I did use the Cleaner again though). That's all. I think. Edited February 11, 2015 by ilogikal1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I found this suitably abandoned on my drive this (foggy) morning. I can't be having filthy cars sat outside my house, I have a reputation to uphold! Luckily the fog lifted and took the dirt with it. Much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 The point of today's update? Just to show the state of Gyeon Prime after 5 months, or rather 22 weeks to the day, since application (way back on page 7 in case you were interested). Since it's application, the car's only seen maintenance washes with no product top-ups since the sacrificial layer of Cure upon application - although I did use Bathe+ for one of the washes in December (on page 10) and Nanolex Reactivating Shampoo two weeks ago. I appreciate the car's still wet but this is the best picture I got of the shiny, glossy, shiny shine of the finish. The beading and sheeting is still bloody impressive too. Roof. Vertical beading on the rear door. Bonnet Surprisingly difficult to get good beading shots on a white car today but they'll do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 First play with the WetCoat today. I'm usually sceptical of magical products but as you rated this and know your way around a £1 spray head, I flipped out e-wallet. Not really sure what stage in my routine this would normally replace, so I just added a new step pre-towel off and then didn't QD afterwards. Using "science" I sprayed two of the three sections of the bonnet with WetCoat and left one alone ( I separated it into thirds using the natural vertical lines and carefulish aiming). Can you tell which third difn't get a WetCoat before this shot was taken? My suspicions continued that this was too magical (and ilogikal1 is secretly a Gyeon robot) as I did the rest of the car without seeing too much excitement. In fairness, with the products I have on there I get a bead straight after a two bucket wash anyway, so I may be doing WetCoat a minor disservice. One day I might clay half a panel and see what really is what. I took the unusual step of doing some fake beading shots after the towel dry and was genuinely impressed by the results I may never quick detail again... (once the gallons of various QDs I have are used up) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) First play with the WetCoat today. I'm usually sceptical of magical products but as you rated this and know your way around a £1 spray head, I flipped out e-wallet. Not really sure what stage in my routine this would normally replace, so I just added a new step pre-towel off and then didn't QD afterwards. That's pretty much the right stage for it - after the wash stage, whilst the car's still wet, apply & rinse WetCoat, optional dry, walk away. Instant protection top up. Out of interest, what was your LSP before applying WetCoat? I'm assuming it was fairly fresh still? WetCoat is brilliant on failing LSP's as a top-up (or unprotected paint for that matter), but if your underlying LSP is still good then it's magic might not be as noticeable in comparison. Did you notice any change in the sheeting, particularly the speed of it? ilogikal1 is secretly a Gyeon robot Curses, my secret is out. ETA: I've got a QD stockpile myself after giving up with them months ago. Edited February 20, 2015 by ilogikal1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 On a slightly related topic (of QD's, not WetCoat); I've been trying to make my Waxybox supplied stockpile of Sonax BSD more me-friendly as I don't get on with the grabbiness of it. I have taken to mixing it with various other QD's to experiment with, the latest of which being Valet Pro Citrus Bling which was diluted 4:1 with water, then mixed roughly 120ml of diluted Citrus Bling with roughly 45ml of BSD. The resultant mixture works okay, it's much nicer to use than pure BSD but still has the water behaviour. The massive downside is that citrus and coconut are scents that just don't work together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 On a slightly related topic (of QD's, not WetCoat); I've been trying to make my Waxybox supplied stockpile of Sonax BSD more me-friendly as I don't get on with the grabbiness of it. I have taken to mixing it with various other QD's to experiment with, the latest of which being Valet Pro Citrus Bling which was diluted 4:1 with water, then mixed roughly 120ml of diluted Citrus Bling with roughly 45ml of BSD. The resultant mixture works okay, it's much nicer to use than pure BSD but still has the water behaviour. The massive downside is that citrus and coconut are scents that just don't work together. So, you put the lime (citrus) in the cocounut and mix 'em all up? At the risk of being taken to school, perhaps it might make BSD less grabby if you were to try with a different MF weight or pile? Rather than mixing it with other goodies? With regard to the previous LSP I used (post #282), it was probably BSD applied as a drying aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 So, you put the lime (citrus) in the cocounut and mix 'em all up? ... and now I have that song stuck in my head! I should have typed "orange" rather than "citrus" there though. Orange coconuts do not smell nice. At the risk of being taken to school, perhaps it might make BSD less grabby if you were to try with a different MF weight or pile? Rather than mixing it with other goodies? A good suggestion and one that I've already tried. To be quite honest, I probably wouldn't be mixing it if I didn't have so many unused sample sized bottles of stuff (and that's after I've given away many, many bottles to car-cleaning-fwiends too. I'm sure it's reproducing ). I do like the protection that BSD leaves, I just don't get on with the application. So I figured rather than having 20 bottles of unused QD's lying around, I'd try mixing them and have 10 bottles of unused QD's lying around instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 [Jack Bauer voice] Previously, on the ilogikal1 thread [/Jack Bauer voice] Well after today's wash... So that's that one answered then. But just to force the point home, Gyeon Cure side; Dodo Juice Supernatural Acrylic Spritz side; The Cure isn't quite completely dead - it does eventually sheet almost all of the water off the respective panels, albeit slowly - but it's clearly being shown up by Acrylic Spritz. It should be noted though that these are both sold as very different products, Cure is more akin to Red Mist whilst Acrylic Spritz is an outright sealant. Elsewhere, Car Chem Hydro Coat is showing up both the Acrylic Spritz and Cure alike on it's respective panels, but especially on the lower side panels (Cure & Acrylic Spritz on the doors & quarter panels, Hydro Coat on the skirts) in terms of dirt repellency/self cleaning and post-wash water behaviour. It's still beading well as is the PTFE Glaze but the sheeting of the latter has noticeably slowed. Post-wash Hydro Coat on the roof currently looks like this; Meanwhile, on the bonnet, the Waxaddict waxes; And for something a little different; That's one picture every 7(ish) seconds over a minute and a half (ish). Just to remind you, the waxes are; Top left - Edition 18. Top Middle - Edition 19. Top Right - Edition 20. Bottom Right - the other Edition 20. Bottom middle - Graphite (beta test version)/ unlabelled pot. Bottom left - Vitreo. That's also Edition 21 on the bumper, for what little of it you can see - it's considerably fresher than the other six so FWIW it's sheeted it's water before the first picture was taken. Not quite all dead just yet but close enough for me to call it a day. Draw your own conclusions from the gif. With Gyeon Cure on the passenger side, the front wings and the bonnet now needing fresh protection I'm a little torn as to what to apply next. I have three Car Chem products that would do nicely for the bonnet, as well as diluted Hydro Coat to use up. But the next Waxybox is due within mere hours (up to 48 of them) and it's a branded box... knowing what the brand is, I'm tempted to wait it out and see what turns up. If some one would like to make that decision for me, that'd be great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Worth a little look. There's nothing revolutionary, but it is a fairly fascinating (I think!) if you like this sort of thing, plus the world's biggest 50/50 shot. http://youtu.be/-SwWoTYJp9A 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Worth a little look. There's nothing revolutionary, but it is a fairly fascinating (I think!) if you like this sort of thing, plus the world's biggest 50/50 shot. I'll never complain about the size of anything I detail ever again*. A few things about this jump out at me; First and foremost; his matte silver lenses are f***ing awesome. I want some! I don't understand why, a) They were working out in the sun, surely a hanger would be better... surely?! 2) Why detail it before painting bits? This goes against everything I know about detailing more than reaching for the microfibre cutting pads before anything else. c) How any of them could possibly face turning up to day 3. Impressive job, I certainly don't envy any one of them doing it though. Was a good video too, I enjoyed that. *This is a lie. A barefaced, unashamed, complete, utter and total lie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Worth a little look. There's nothing revolutionary, but it is a fairly fascinating (I think!) if you like this sort of thing, plus the world's biggest 50/50 shot. I'll never complain about the size of anything I detail ever again*. A few things about this jump out at me; First and foremost; his matte silver lenses are f***ing awesome. I want some! I don't understand why, a) They were working out in the sun, surely a hanger would be better... surely?! 2) Why detail it before painting bits? This goes against everything I know about detailing more than reaching for the microfibre cutting pads before anything else. c) How any of them could possibly face turning up to day 3. Impressive job, I certainly don't envy any one of them doing it though. Was a good video too, I enjoyed that. *This is a lie. A barefaced, unashamed, complete, utter and total lie. I also listen to the AMMO podcasts and they did one on this recently. The reason they detailed it before painting is quite simple. The museum had planned to paint it, so the curators told them there was no point detailing it as it needed fresh paint. They (detailers) asked if they could do it anyway, so as the museum planned to paint it, there was nothing to lose. When they finished I believe the museum put the paint job on hold as they were so impressed by the result Love the small section (I think it was Kevin Brown) was doing, a little 2x2 but you could see the oxidisation coming off in literally one pass and looking a fantastic baby blue underneath. I think they did it outside as most of the the museum is outside and the hangars are full of dozens of planes. It must have been mentally hot out there! I'd have been indoors washing pads I need something that big to learn on!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I also listen to the AMMO podcasts and they did one on this recently. The reason they detailed it before painting is quite simple. The museum had planned to paint it, so the curators told them there was no point detailing it as it needed fresh paint. They (detailers) asked if they could do it anyway, so as the museum planned to paint it, there was nothing to lose. When they finished I believe the museum put the paint job on hold as they were so impressed by the result Yeah, they said in that video the museum planned to paint it from the outset until they did a test polish. Unless it changed since that video was made, the museum then said (after the test patch) that they would be painting a section of the white and repainting the gold stripe still, so I just don't understand why they didn't agree which parts to polish or paint, then do the painting first and the polishing after to tidy up any over spray. I'm sure there was a reason, I just can't work it out. I'd be making the museum clear out a hanger just for this. Sod that working in the desert lark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 NIR Polarised Lenses - FIT - they are on my Xmas list, good for 15 bhp too http://www.dillonoptics.com/shop/metal-frames/greasewood/silver-nir-lens/greasewood-ss-s.html This dillon optics seem to sponsor The Smoking Tyre, which probably explains where Larry got his and that they were probably free. B@stard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Already on that. He appears to be wearing the Bucket's. Sadly I'm not that fond of any of their frames; I'm devising a plan though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Regarding what LSP will be where for the next few weeks; I made the decision, all by myself and everything. But it's lunch time and I'm hungry, so you'll have to wait to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Alright, keep the noise down in here you lot! Whilst waiting for my Waxybox to arrive yesterday, I put my time to good use. Start with one replacement emblem, supplied by our very own Mr Tarmac of Tarmac Sportz fame, and add some HubiTrim. The plan is to remove the old Nissan burger when I get round to the summer prep so that I can polish out some of the scratches and swirls that I can't get to with the emblem in place and then stick this one on in it's place. In the mean time, this one is now fully protected and ready to go on. The postman then arrived with my Waxybox. This month's box is a Nanolex branded box and, as I suspected, contains the 6 new products in the Nanolex range (if you frequent DW, it's the same products that they issued for field testing recently, which are the Interior Cleaner, Pure Shampoo, Pre Wash Concentrate, Wheel Cleaner & Fallout Remover, Microfibre Wash and Nano One), along with some more Britemax QD, an orange dual pile microfibre cloth, another short pile microfibre cloth, two foam applicators, gloves, a sticker and a very bubblegum scented air freshener. Just the one LSP in the box then, and one that I wanted to try for myself at that, so my decision was made. Nano One contains mild, diminishing abrasives, gloss enhancers and adds protection so is every bit the AIO. It can also be used by either hand or DA (although not recommended for rotary) as either an outright LSP or as a last-stage polish & protect in one. So Nano One is very similar to Nano Wax. Very, very similar. Virtually identical in fact, which led me to question where these two products would fit together in the line up - I've since been informed by Rich at Waxybox that Nano One is replacing Nano Wax, which makes sense as they are so similar. I'm also told One is supposed to have an improved durability, but it's not been out in the field long enough for anyone to actually confirm (or deny) this... luckily I happen to have both products to hand; 50/50 test in the future anyone? Onto the car then. Having washed the car on Wednesday and hiding it away in the garage since, I started off with a quick dust down (bare concrete floor ) and then removed all traces of the previous waxes with Car Chem Pre Wax Cleaner. Which did this to the applicator; Can you tell which one I used? Even on a clean car it pulls out a lot of dirt, this was just from the bonnet! I like this stuff more and more each time I use it. I then reached for the Nano One. Having spilt some already, I was acutely aware that it's a very runny liquid - it's a little bit more runny than Nano Wax is - and that it came in a wax jar in the Waxybox, although it's worth noting it'll come in a bottle from Nanolex. I think Waxybox chose the wax jar for their own reasons (30ml sample size and 50ml bottles, for example) but in my opinion that was a mistake due to the consistency. Anyway, Nano One was applied by hand with a microfibre applicator pad. It was very easy to spread thinly and went quite far. Due to a lack of instructions with it, I treated it like Nano Wax and left it to cure for 10-12minutes and then buffed. It was an absolute breeze to remove, the excess product simply wiped off (even where over-applied and where dried out) and then a single pass to buff to a high shine was all that I needed. I didn't test it's corrective abilities, but will do that at some point. Now you didn't expect me to use just the one LSP did you? The current selection on the bonnet; Pre Wax Cleaner was used on the whole bonnet to give everything a level playing field (even though Nano One would remove anything underneath it anyway). Car Chem Carnauba Glaze was then used on two sections which was then topped with Car Chem Origin wax and Car Chem Connoisseur wax. Both the waxes are usually white, these are just the limited edition colours from Christmas. Origin was the marginally harder wax in the pot so took a little bit more effort to load the applicator than Connoisseur, but once loaded both waxes spread really well and easily, they were each given 5-6 minutes to cure then buffed off with very little effort. Both very nice waxes to use, if pushed I'd pick Connoisseur of the two in terms of use but the differences were only noticeable because I used them back to back. I'd say these were both easier to use than Dodo Juice waxes and close to Poorboys Natty's waxes... albeit without any added scents. Durability will the the difference between these two really. More to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Having slapped some wax and sealants on the bonnet, I borrowed the Zed Shed camera... Which isn't true but it's as good an excuse for everything being blue and blurry as anything else. Then I remembered how to use my camera. Admire my reflections, b****es! In case it wasn't obvious from that, the driver's side has Nano One, middle has Origin and passenger's side has Connoisseur on. Whilst I was there I've added VP Citrus Bling-BSD hybrid to the front wings and boot hatch for durability/water behaviour testing too. You can't really tell in the pictures, but this is as close as I can get to capturing the difference in the three finishes. Origin darkens the paint more and is a wetter look than Connoisseur whilst Connoisseur has a touch more depth and emphasises the flake a bit more. Whilst Nano One is more glassy finish that lacks a bit of the depth of the two waxes. Nano One darkens the paint a touch more than Connoisseur but not as much as Origin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Cool, ...that is all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 No carpet in the garage? Is the carchem pre-wax cleanser a straight replacement for werkstat prime? Which appears to have disappeared (just after you got me hooked on it ). Does it muster any cut at all? http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2014/11/introducing-the-carlack-range/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 No carpet in the garage? Is the carchem pre-wax cleanser a straight replacement for werkstat prime? Which appears to have disappeared (just after you got me hooked on it ). Does it muster any cut at all? http://www.polishedb...-carlack-range/ There is actually. It's just not on the floor. I've wanted to seal and put flooring down for years, but it's just so horrendously expensive to do a double garage. Werkstat have gone on an indefinite hiatus from production so sadly their outstanding Acrylic system might never be available again. Hopefully it's only temporary though. Car Chem Pre Wax Cleaner is not quite a straight replacement for Prime because Prime was (is! I've not given up hope yet...) more of an AIO product as it offered some protection too where as CC PWC doesn't as far as I know. However in terms of cleaning strength, which is what I really rated Prime for, I'd happily say that CC PWC is a very strong contender to Prime's crown. It doesn't offer any correction act all; like Prime (and Carlack Complete that PB have replaced Prime with) all the work is done by chemical cleaners, so no cut and no fillers. I've not used either of the two Carlack offerings so I'm not sure how they fair in comparison. I still have some Prime left, so I'll be doing a head to head with Prime and CC PWC during my summer prep. I'll be sure to stick up results up in here too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Just a quick reminder that 3/4 of this is still going on. I haven't forgotten about it yet but nothing has changed since last time. Not much more has changed since application in July actually. Tune in for the next exciting episode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Have you tried the Nanolex Pre-Wash Concentrate from the waxybox branded box yet? I can't figure out what is from the description. The first half says, "high foaming alkaline pre-cleaner" which I think means a sort half way between snow foam and citrus pre-wash. Then it says later on that it is, "highly suitable for removal of wax, polish residue and silicones". Will it strip protection if used as a pre-wash, in a lance, like a snow foam? I don't want all-in-one-does-50-jobs-and-last-for-19-years-protection-including-nuclear-armageddon products. I just want ones that do one job really well!!!!! It's a sign o' t' times I tell thee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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