Chromatic Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Holy shite! Just received my K&N Perf. Oil filter in the mail as I'm switching to Full on Synthetics with my first oil change on the Zed,.. And I can't believe this thing can filter this 3.5 liter Engine adequately! Wow! Maybe it's normal for the Z's.. but I've never seen an Oil Filter that small for a Car, much less one with this size engine. Actually looks bigger in that picture than it really is. I'm sure most of you know what your oil filter looks like.. so sorry for the .. "No shite sherlock" thread.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 You just have massive hands that's all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Most oil filters for Jap cars fit each other, just down to how much oil you want to run through the filter really. I've swapped Impreza, Zed, MR2 and Accord filters around with impunity. Very handy, when you realise you don't have the right one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 You just have massive hands that's all. Just get ioneabee to hold it, it will look enormous.... Sent from the golf club... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 You just have massive hands that's all. Hah.. My palms are pretty big.. Fingers just average. But , yeah, if that was a normal size filter I'd be a damn giant lol. Most oil filters for Jap cars fit each other, just down to how much oil you want to run through the filter really. I've swapped Impreza, Zed, MR2 and Accord filters around with impunity. Very handy, when you realise you don't have the right one... Yeah? You implying there is a considerably larger filter that will fit the 350 and ideally do a better job? With a filter this size.. I'm definitely not going to let it go past 3k on oil changes .. regardless of oil HOA's.. I suppose you could swap filters and do changes at longer intervals (swapping filters midway).. but meh.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 On the subject.. I've heard some people talking about putting some oil IN the new filter when installing it to help the engine on it's first start post oil and filter change. Think that's necessary? I've never done it.. Always just lube the gasket with some oil and put it on dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony.r123 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 On the subject.. I've heard some people talking about putting some oil IN the new filter when installing it to help the engine on it's first start post oil and filter change. Think that's necessary? I've never done it.. Always just lube the gasket with some oil and put it on dry. I've always done it on my cars and track bikes, helps prevent air lock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 They are relatively small filters though yes. I used to work at a truck & haulage suppliers and the oil filters for most trucks are massive in comparison although even some other car manufacturers oil filters make the Zeds look tiny. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Same filters used on Micras. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 On the subject.. I've heard some people talking about putting some oil IN the new filter when installing it to help the engine on it's first start post oil and filter change. Think that's necessary? I've never done it.. Always just lube the gasket with some oil and put it on dry. I've always done it on my cars and track bikes, helps prevent air lock Roger... I guess I'll just put like Half in there.. So it won't spill out tilting it sideways screwing it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah? You implying there is a considerably larger filter that will fit the 350 and ideally do a better job? With a filter this size.. I'm definitely not going to let it go past 3k on oil changes .. regardless of oil HOA's.. I suppose you could swap filters and do changes at longer intervals (swapping filters midway).. but meh.. Not really, no. If a filter does the job then I see no need to increase the size unless you're doing plenty of track work. If you are, then 3k miles is a good idea. If not, and it's just fast road driving with the odd trackday, then tbh 10k miles is plenty. The one that came on the Impreza was huge, so I swapped it for a smaller one then went and thraped it round Spa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 And yes, you should always fill the filter if possible. Some engines have them on the side or the top which obviously makes that impossible, but if you can pre-fill then by all means do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 And yes, you should always fill the filter if possible. Some engines have them on the side or the top which obviously makes that impossible, but if you can pre-fill then by all means do. Yup, new to me. I believe I can fill it quarter to half way and still put it on in it's location without it spilling out.. Some is better than none I suppose. Our filters are Sideways,.. Do you change your own oil? (Don't care if you do or don't.. just curious as your answer just begs the question is all ).. Our filter.. (I think this is correct) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Me and Buster are divided on the do you don't you fill it I do, he don't I always spill a little, he doesn't - pays ya money takes ya choice You won't loose much if your quick to fit it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattross1313 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 You just have massive hands that's all. Just get ioneabee to hold it, it will look enormous.... Sent from the golf club... Aaahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ioneabee Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 You just have massive hands that's all. Just get ioneabee to hold it, it will look enormous.... Sent from the golf club... Aaahahaha yada yada yada I have big feet, I'll have you know..................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony.r123 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 And yes, you should always fill the filter if possible. Some engines have them on the side or the top which obviously makes that impossible, but if you can pre-fill then by all means do. Yup, new to me. I believe I can fill it quarter to half way and still put it on in it's location without it spilling out.. Some is better than none I suppose. Our filters are Sideways,.. Do you change your own oil? (Don't care if you do or don't.. just curious as your answer just begs the question is all ).. Our filter.. (I think this is correct) All my track bikes had their filters fitted like this, if you 1/4 fill it you should get it on ok without spilling too much 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JetSet Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Same filters used on Micras. Yes, salesman pointed this out to me when I bought my Zed like it was some sort of bonus . Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 And yes, you should always fill the filter if possible. Some engines have them on the side or the top which obviously makes that impossible, but if you can pre-fill then by all means do. Yup, new to me. I believe I can fill it quarter to half way and still put it on in it's location without it spilling out.. Some is better than none I suppose. Our filters are Sideways,.. Do you change your own oil? (Don't care if you do or don't.. just curious as your answer just begs the question is all ).. Our filter.. (I think this is correct) All my track bikes had their filters fitted like this, if you 1/4 fill it you should get it on ok without spilling too much Yeah, haven't looked at it in person "yet" -- Will likely be doing Oil change tomorrow (Or maybe trying to put on HFC's myself.. and tackle the so called "Demon Bolts") -- Wish there was a Ramp system that pulled all 4 wheels of the car up off the ground,.. I've thought about using 4 sets of Ramps.. HAH,.. but without even eyeballing the ramps at the wheels I know that's a bad idea... no to mention putting ramps in FRONT of the rear wheels could prove .. well.. impossible? I'll put just a little oil in the filter as it looks like it not only goes in sideways but angles downward a bit as well,.. so even a little oil will come spilling out if you aren't fast with it. I know I've done my fair share of oil changes and never put oil IN the oil filter and never had an issue.. that doesn't mean people haven't had issues with "Air lock" or whatever can occur without oil in the filters. I do know at all the "Express" oil change in 10 mins or less (stay in your car) places around here they don't put oil in the filters. If it was a common issue I'm sure that would have cropped up with them. I'm tempted to bring my car in to one of those places just because I'm sure the guy in the pit LOVES cars with a dozen bolts holding a piece of plastic on that keeps him (or her) from accessing the filter/drain plug. But, that'd mean I would have to pay someone to do a less than optimal hurried oil change for $50 for Dino and closer to $100+ for Synthetic. No Thanks, I bought Ramps, Wheel chucks, an oil filter removal toil, Case of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30, 2 - K&N perf. oil filters (got an extra due to sale), new magnetic shiney Crimson red drain plug with new Crush washer, nice funnel to keep it clean, and uhh.. I think that's all for less than what it would cost for an oil change with Synthetic at a shop here. Pricing it out seems like Synthetic changes are going to cost me about $40 for oil + filter from here on out.. Considerably higher than Dino, but I think the Zed deserves it, ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 You can't wait until Monday for your Exhaust specialist to put your HFC's on then? Don't forget that we expect pictures as we all love a project here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Mate, you need to get a blog where to write all this... stuff. So much debate and talking for an oil filter 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) TL;DR -- See Below for some questions I have on doing it myself (if I do) You can't wait until Monday for your Exhaust specialist to put your HFC's on then? Don't forget that we expect pictures as we all love a project here. You want pics? hehe.. If this guy does it I'm not getting any install pics -- It's a drop off, pick up deal with him. If I do it myself,.. I'll snap some shots, especially if the bolts come off lol. Now "video" for sound.. I'll certainly do that -- I think I may can buy myself a little time of putting this off by doing the oil change, and I got the complete set of Drilled Billet Aluminum "race" pedals that come on the Nismo that may take me an hour or two to install (The gas pedal I have to basically re-do,.. with specific additions of bushings and such so the Pedal will fit like it did from the factory). -- And I'll probably go grab a $100 Sony Camcorder from Walmart here so my Video will have GOOD sound of the exhaust note, and I'll record my current setup with the Invidia gemini with driveby's and stuff,.. Then Be able to record the difference between (Invidia Gemini Catback only) vs (Invidia Gemini Catback + Berk HFCats) properly, No I can't wait! In so much that I'm still reading install posts and debating trying to put this thing on jackstands and try it myself this weekend. Problem is if I screw up a nut, or bolt.. or worse one of the welded studs on the header side.. I may make this a quite expensive installation for a mechanic to then get the old cats off after I bunged up the bolts/nuts/stud(s)... It's really.. it seems.. just One bolt on each Cat on the header flange that you access from the Driver and Passenger side (from engine top) that are the main issue with this removal.. you get those you should be able to get the other stuff. I DO have a 400ft-lb Corded Impact 1/2" Wrench that is a beast.. But, Berk recommends NOT to use impact tools as they can possibly damage the heating element sensors in the headers themselves.. But a mechanic is going to use an impact gun themselves.. hrmm. You have a better chance of screwing up a bolt/nut with a breaker bar than an impact wrench. Especially with 3 Feet (1 meter) of extensions (generally 3+ extensions) connected together, onto your socket, onto your ratchet, going in from the top of the engine down to the cat/header flange bolt.. -- So you probably don't have the easiest time getting that socket on there.. then have to keep a meter of extensions on it , blind,.. then have a breaker bar up top and then put some serious force on it. This = easy chance to have the socket slip around down there with 100's of pounds of force by you up top. Where connect my impact gun to it.. = more precision here.. and impact hits/clicks to break that nut/bolt loose. There's a really good Youtube video on doing this install.. but the guy makes it look SO easy,.. deceptively easy where I bet a few people have gotten themselves into trouble after watching it and thinking.. hey that's simple, I can do that no problem! Also, I'm curious about removal of the O2 sensors,.. They have the wire permanently attached to them.. So a standard deep well socket isn't going to work (without screwing it up).. So there goes more money to buy a specific Socket (or O2 wrench). I suppose I could always remove the O2 sensors when the cats came out,.. which makes that part much "safer" working with it with room,.. maybe some vice grips or something would work with the cats off. Really would have been good if this guy was able to do it tomorrow lol.. So it's do I go for it? Or do I wait? I almost want to do it myself because of the damage that can be done to the O2 sensors and the Sensor Banks inside the headers themselves when someone besides yourself is working on just "some" car. I don't want to go in telling the mechanic how to do his job.. but a Berk Technician specifically told me to tell whomever installed them this: If they break the sensor you'll get a P2Axx code that is related to the forward sensor in the header. Just tell the mechanic this word for word: "Impact guns and air chisels have been known to break the heating element inside the bank 1, sensor 1 and bank 2, sensor 1 that is mounted inside the header. The manufacturer asserts that impact tools should not be used to break loose stubborn bolts on the forward most catalytic converter flange on the 350Z & 370Z equipped with the VQ35HR & VQ37VHR engine". So I'm going to hand him a printed piece of paper with that on it if I don't end up doing it myself.. TL;DR Start Here: If I do , do it myself.. few questions if it were you. 1) Would it "help" to go ahead and spray PB Blaster (the stuff that soaks in and loosens nuts/bolts) tomorrow and let it soak for 24+ hours before I get to it? Or is that stuff more a spray on wait 30 minutes and work type of thing where the longer doesn't = better 2) Can I use just Ramps and have the front of the car in the air? -- As I just have 2 jack stands,.. if that's not ok, I'll need to buy 2 more jack stands (more $$). (to have the car on 4 stands) 3) O2 Sensors? Better safe than sorry and buy a proper tool to remove them? If so,.. what tool do you recommend? (pics/links) 4) Getting those two "demon" bolts from the engine bay -- Risk using Breaker Bar or would you use a/an 1/2" Impact Wrench? (The one I have is 400 ft/lbs in reverse,.. so that still may not be enough.. but I figure it may be a situation where I let it "impact" for 1-2+ minutes and it finally breaks it.) And any other "tips" if you've done this.. has anyone done this btw? lol.. I don't think I've seen anyone post about their experience doing this themselves (as when I was asking if I should do my Cat-back everyone said take it to a shop, .. but it ended up being very easy for some reason.. so just curious.) Tres Bien, Edited February 28, 2014 by Chromatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 1. The longer you can leave penetrating fluid on for, the better. 24 or even 48 hours is going to help way more than just 30 mins. 2. Ramps to get it up, then jack stands as well just in case. 3. Proper tool is peanuts, but I usually just disconnect then put a spanner on them and remove whilst the cats are still on the car. Or whatever works, really. 4. I always prefer manual tools to impact stuff as I can feel exactly what is going on, but each to their own. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Mate, you need to get a blog where to write all this... stuff. So much debate and talking for an oil filter Meh.. I tend to write.. sue me -- If you don't want to read it, this isn't required Summer reading for University Further it's morphed into one of the tougher installation jobs people do (Testpipes or High Flow Cats) on the 350/370's.. I even include your TL;DR's .. come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) 1. The longer you can leave penetrating fluid on for, the better. 24 or even 48 hours is going to help way more than just 30 mins. Good info -- Thanks! 2. Ramps to get it up, then jack stands as well just in case. So to the Crux of the question,.. This job is do-able with just the front off the ground correct? And,.. while I don't see how I'd get it off the ramps, but keep it on ramps, and have stands (+ I'll have wheel chucks on the rears) for safety. 3. Proper tool is peanuts, but I usually just disconnect then put a spanner on them and remove whilst the cats are still on the car. Or whatever works, really. Peanuts? Cheap you mean? The O2 removal "spanner" was $10-$20 locally.. not that bad in and of itself, but adding let's see.. 3 x 1ft Extensions = $35 (including tax) O2 Spanner = $10 (the cheapest not including tax) May need a Swivel/U-joint or other misc. tools to get to the bolts (I'll figure that out when I put PB Blaster on) so I'll add another $20 there.. ---------------- $55 or so.. give or take. (All of these I'll need in the future (perhaps not the O2 removal spanner) but the other stuff I can use. (I'm slowly building my tool collection up.. it was pityful 6 months ago.. it's getting better, still need quite a bit more though.. Tools are not cheap,.. but more tools = No overpriced mechanics. Speaking of which,.. There's a guy in town local who does Z's only -- And I phoned him,.. He said he was $110 an hour, and for this HFC install it would be $380 + tax. I laughed (couldn't stop myself..) And told him thanks, bye. I'm sorry just because you specialize in a certain line of cars does not make you suddenly worth 50-100% more than the other mechanics per hour. If he worked on Ferrari's or Lambo's.. Ok, $200+ an hour sounds about right.. but come on guy.. 4. I always prefer manual tools to impact stuff as I can feel exactly what is going on, but each to their own. Oh man.. I love power tools -- I've been working with manuals until quite recently.. just grabbed some really nice 20v Cordless Impact Driver, Impact Wrench, and the best Cordless 20v "driver" (Drill/whatever socket/bit you have goes in it..) -- Using them makes me smile everytime,.. Spinning off 14 12mm bolts in under 2 minutes in a spot that just a few months ago took me quite a while with my ratchet makes me think.. What was I thinking not having this stuff around before? But, for some things, you just can't beat the "touch/feel" of the manual tools -- IE: messing with the intake plenums, tubing, clamps, interior work,.. and other such I won't use a power tool ever because it's just too fast and strong for that work.. although setting my new 20v "driver" (not an impact) clutch really low works well.. as the clutch will kick in at like 5-10lb's or less of torque and saves time,.. but I only pull it out if it's something like say removing that plastic panel that covers the bottom of the engine for an oil change, etc. (An excessive amount of nuts/bolts/screws that not using a cordless gun just = more time and a tired wrist/arm) My point on the Impact vs. Breaker was more of which was more likely to strip the bolt head -- Both can technically do it when you are behind 3feet/1meter of extensions and your "feel" is gone due to that anyway. Thanks for the direct answers to my questions! Edited February 28, 2014 by Chromatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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