rothers2901 Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Firstly loosen the wheel nuts, Jack up the front of the car, I used the front central jacking point. Remove the wheels. Pull the caliper outwards so that you can access the retaining pins. Pull out the two spring clips which hold the pins in place. With the spring clips removed use a 4mm punch to tap out the retaining pins. Pull out the pins completely from the caliper using a pair of pliers and remove the Pad retaining spring. This is what it looks like before the pads are removed. With a pair of pliers and a rag to protect the caliper compress the cylinders back into the calipers which releases the pressure on the pads. Pull out the pads. They may be a little tight. With the pad removed unscrew the two 22mm bolts which hold the caliper to the suspension arm (these will be tight) I used a 600mm long breaker bar to do this. Now remove the two 12mm bolts which hold the brake pipe bracket and slide the whole unit (caliper and all) up into the wheel arch and secure it to the suspension arm. With the caliper out of the way you can now remove the disc itself. The disc should come free without any force. If it is a little tight you can either tap the disc with a hammer between the wheel studs or you can unscrew the jacking bolt, remove the sleeve and re-screw it back in till it come up against the hub forcing it away from hub itself. Now put on your new discs and replace everything in the reverse order. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japcarsbrett Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 nice guide there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Good guide I usually copper grease the rear of the new pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Good guide I usually copper grease the rear of the new pads Agreed with the copper grease Good guide, its not a hard job but it saves newbies having to search all over the internet for a guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Thanks for this, I think I'm going to try and do the disc's and pads myself, garage can do the lines & fluids. (I've done it previously on my old MR2, so hopefully it's straightforward's) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhackyWill Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Very helpful guide, well written. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Almeida1234 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Good guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountKyle Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 How tight are we talking for the 22mm bolts which hold the calliper to the suspension arm? I used an even larger breaker bar and it did not budge! It just pinged. I fear superman last changed my discs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apoc124 Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 How tight are we talking for the 22mm bolts which hold the calliper to the suspension arm? I used an even larger breaker bar and it did not budge! It just pinged. I fear superman last changed my discs... when i did mine i had to use some gentle persuasion with a hammer to give them a nudge then they came off, i believe they have to be tight but i was in the same boat as you they were locked on by someone with super human strength or did them with a gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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