Meeerrrk Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Interesting photos...Matt is this going In your car when rebuilt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Nice work guys. It's likely that a cheap aftermarket gasket led to that engine dying but did you guys check to studs where all torqued to spec and cause it to lift? Just wondering because most of the gaskets should be fine for NA. I was bending a 600mm breaker bar to loosen the head studs if anything I would say over torqued! I was rather hoping they were loose so I could blame it on that though. The biggest problem is we didn't find a problem so are we just wasting money and time putting in gaskets and bolting it all back together Nice work Chris, Would it be worth checking how true the head is where the leak occurred, if there is runout, just a couple of thou this may have caused the problem? Suppose you could always put a thicker gasket in there to lower the compression & pop it in your car, I know you keep going on about intake temps Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc Interesting photos...Matt is this going In your car when rebuilt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk What on earth makes you think I can actually put that pile of bolts back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Nice work Chris, Would it be worth checking how true the head is where the leak occurred, if there is runout, just a couple of thou this may have caused the problem? Suppose you could always put a thicker gasket in there to lower the compression & pop it in your car, I know you keep going on about intake temps Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc This might seem a daft question, but out of interest, what would be an accurate way to check the block and head.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Great work again guys. Yet again, I wished I lived closer to the Zed Shed. And I'll say it before Keyser does.... "I'm glad you don't". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Nice work Chris, Would it be worth checking how true the head is where the leak occurred, if there is runout, just a couple of thou this may have caused the problem? Suppose you could always put a thicker gasket in there to lower the compression & pop it in your car, I know you keep going on about intake temps Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc This might seem a daft question, but out of interest, what would be an accurate way to check the block and head.? Old school - machined straightedge and feeler gauges 3 directions and feel for gaps. New technology - Probably the same as above but I'm sure I heard somewhere they can do it with a laser - don't even want to know what that costs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveM Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 if it were me i would be having those heads really lightly skimmed just for peace of mind.. slightly thicker head gasket will take up the difference of a light skim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeerrrk Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Nice work guys. It's likely that a cheap aftermarket gasket led to that engine dying but did you guys check to studs where all torqued to spec and cause it to lift? Just wondering because most of the gaskets should be fine for NA. I was bending a 600mm breaker bar to loosen the head studs if anything I would say over torqued! I was rather hoping they were loose so I could blame it on that though. The biggest problem is we didn't find a problem so are we just wasting money and time putting in gaskets and bolting it all back together Nice work Chris, Would it be worth checking how true the head is where the leak occurred, if there is runout, just a couple of thou this may have caused the problem? Suppose you could always put a thicker gasket in there to lower the compression & pop it in your car, I know you keep going on about intake temps Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc Interesting photos...Matt is this going In your car when rebuilt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk What on earth makes you think I can actually put that pile of bolts back together? Well if you would have said that before I let you guys loose on the 350z suspension with spanners...lol I have every confidence Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) if it were me i would be having those heads really lightly skimmed just for peace of mind.. slightly thicker head gasket will take up the difference of a light skim I did consider that, however you then gain 2 additional expenses - the skim and non standard oversize gaskets now if you add that in all of a sudden the engine will not be a cheap replacement, additionally if you do that and the bugger blows again because the block is slightly out then you have wasted all that money as you will need another set of gaskets and another skim (although by this point you probably won't be able to skim the heads again) so do the block well yes but then you may as well do the whole lot and I priced up the parts and machine shop labour well over £2000 without my labour so it now becomes cheaper to source a running engine from a breaker - but that's how we got here in the first place The object here is budget if I put it back together and it blows up we have wasted £100 (not that I want to waste it ) and our time but we need practice at engine changes on the 350 as we haven't done many But if it works it's going to be a cheap and hopefully solid engine as it was just reconditioned. Update in a few minutes just uploading the pics for your enjoyment Edited February 27, 2014 by Keyser 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 you uploaded them pics yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 you uploaded them pics yet? You sold them fuel rails yet : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 OK got the new Gaskets in today - Hand delivered to Matt's house by his better half, and hand delivered to me by Matt So we started on the engine this evening, To start with we warmed the Zed Shed up Cleaned the old gasket off with some cleaner and scotch bright (Well Mrs Keyser did Old school tolerance checks on the block - well in spec (assuming my nice new spirit level is actually straight ) Same checks on the head - they are spot on - not overly surprising as they were just skimmed Head bolt tolerance check - tolerance states - 0.11 I had 0.09 - 0.10 so just in Decks all clean and ready for nice new Genuine Nissan Gaskets Some old school tools so I don't damage anything with the air wrench Then play the Mad head torque routine as laid down in the service manual - O and you need one of these Only got one side done tonight so have a go at some more tomorrow night then Saturday we can play where do all the cogs go with the timing chain I'll keep ya posted 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Beautiful work there Keyser , nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Nice tip for checking the heads are not warped also thanks for informing me that I need to buy more tools Love this guy for explaining things in detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Ahh But I'm willing to bet you will be getting nice new ARP studs for your rebuild will you not? I think they are just a torque setting in a specific order the standard head Bolts are Torque -in order - release - re torque in order - + 90 degrees in order then +90 degrees in order again - turn around 3 times and touch your nose EDIT : Nice Vid my head hurts now Edited February 27, 2014 by Keyser 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Got a nice snap on torque wrench thats digital and also does angles....Lucky enough to get mine at the right price but worth looking out for second hand if you know its history http://store.snapon.com/TECHANGLE-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-Electronic-TECHANGLE-153-Flex-Ratchet-12-5-to-250-ft-lbs-1-2-drive-P760213.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Getting? I might not have read the instructions yet but know they torque down a hell of a lot more, guess I saved myself money buy buying something expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Wish I lived nearer to you. I love all this stuff ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizurd Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Brilliant seeing this kind of work. Wish I had the room to do the same. Hopefully it's just that old gasket that caused the problems. Fingers crossed. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattross1313 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 You've only done 1 side? What ya been doing all day? I dropped them off at 09:10 this morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeerrrk Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Good work and thanks for sharing the progress! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Great read, Keyser - i assume that the cylinders are steel (wet) liners? Such a nice looking motor when its stripped down. Quick question - to get the crank pulley off/on do you use an air tool or what? Hope you've sorted the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Quick question - to get the crank pulley off/on do you use an air tool or what? Are you referring to the bolt that holds the pulley or the pulley itself, To remove the bolt - car in gear handbrake on and loosen, if, as in this case the engine is not in the car an air gun or 2 bolts in the flywheel end of the crank with a big bar to stop it turning as you undo it. The pulley was easy this time just pulled of by hand but I have had to use a puller on them - they are not usually madly tight just a little rusty and stiff to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 you uploaded them pics yet? You sold them fuel rails yet : You tell me...? Don't think I had PayPal notification from uncle K yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Quick question - to get the crank pulley off/on do you use an air tool or what? Are you referring to the bolt that holds the pulley or the pulley itself, To remove the bolt - car in gear handbrake on and loosen, if, as in this case the engine is not in the car an air gun or 2 bolts in the flywheel end of the crank with a big bar to stop it turning as you undo it. The pulley was easy this time just pulled of by hand but I have had to use a puller on them - they are not usually madly tight just a little rusty and stiff to come off. Yes, sorry the bolt. Its mainly the problem of torquing it up, then +90 deg - last time I removed the starter and jammed a bar into the ring gear. This worked fine but was a bit of a faff - just wondered if there was an easier way (without an air tool)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobrien1 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Interesting read hope it all goes well once back together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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