What size oil filter Socket wrench for 350?

[Chromatic]

Wow..

 

You'd think this would be everywhere.. but I've been looking for an hour and every thread says "use an oil filter socket like this!" (shows random picture)..

 

I'm doing my own oil changes and I'd like to use the Socket type end cap pieces that you put on the end of the oil filter, and then put a ratchet in and loosen easily.. but for the life of my I can't find what size it is to actually buy it.

 

Some one help me out,..

 

If you have no idea what I'm talking about .. it looks something like this:

 

 

Thank ya!

[350 Russ]

If you maintain a few cars then it might be worth taking a look at this, http://bit.ly/1jP6Hh3

 

If you only want one I'll have a look on mine to compare them but it won't be until Sunday, my HKS filter said 65mm but that was too small for it so I'm not too sure without having a proper check

[Chromatic]

Thanks, I shopped around.. and went with this:

 

The same kit is between $80-$200 US.. So I passed

 

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392966065&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+filter+wrench

 

The Lisle has a minimum range that is just under 65mm.. So should be absolutely perfect for the Z (and other cars I work on).. man the Z has a tiny oil filter.. what were they thinking putting such a small filter on a 3.5L engine?

 

Oh I still want to know the answer to my original question though lol

Edited February 21, 2014 by Chromatic

[glrnet]

The first google search I did revealed this:- http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/oil_filter/nissan/350z.html

The second one found this :- http://www.ebay.com/itm/171125236245?catId=6000&item=171125236245

[Chromatic]

The first google search I did revealed this:- http://www.autoparts...issan/350z.html

The second one found this :- http://www.ebay.com/...em=171125236245

 

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books

 

(Hides from Moderator)

 

 

 

In all seriousness.. if you look at my OP, I asked about the Filter Wrench "tool" for removal of said Filter. Not the filter itself =)

Edited February 21, 2014 by Chromatic

[ChrisS]

The first google search I did revealed this:- http://www.autoparts...issan/350z.html

The second one found this :- http://www.ebay.com/...em=171125236245

 

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books

 

(Hides from Moderator)

 

 

Owned.................... :lol:

[glrnet]

The first google search I did revealed this:- http://www.autoparts...issan/350z.html

The second one found this :- http://www.ebay.com/...em=171125236245

 

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books

 

(Hides from Moderator)

 

 

 

In all seriousness.. if you look at my OP, I asked about the Filter Wrench "tool" for removal of said Filter. Not the filter itself =)

So are you talking about the nut size on the part in your hand or the outside diameter of the oil filter?

If you had taken the time to look at the first link it gave the dimensions of the filter from which you could have established the size of the wrench you needed, next time just get under the car and measure it yourself

[ZMANALEX]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-OIL-FILTER-REMOVAL-TOOL-SKYLINE-200SX-300ZX-350Z-GTR-SILVIA-PULSAR-/181056445148?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3A350+Z&hash=item2a27ce1adc

[pallett]

The filter is so easily accessible just turn it by hand, bit of force and a grippy glove and your done

[rabbitstew]

Ive 3 oil filter removal tools and the only one I ever use is the good old fashioned bike chain style one. Had no problem removing the zeds little oil filter using it. The only time ive had to buy a slip on oil filter spanner thinggy in order to use a 1/2inch wrench on it was for my Ducati 996 which requires the oil filter to be torqued up to some ridiculous measurement in order to stop oil leaks from it - typical Italian engineering.

[Chromatic]

The first google search I did revealed this:- http://www.autoparts...issan/350z.html

The second one found this :- http://www.ebay.com/...em=171125236245

 

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books

 

(Hides from Moderator)

 

 

 

In all seriousness.. if you look at my OP, I asked about the Filter Wrench "tool" for removal of said Filter. Not the filter itself =)

So are you talking about the nut size on the part in your hand or the outside diameter of the oil filter?

If you had taken the time to look at the first link it gave the dimensions of the filter from which you could have established the size of the wrench you needed, next time just get under the car and measure it yourself

 

That's not my hand in the pic.. It's the answer another person got who asked this very question. A picture of that with no identifying marks.. I know the filter is around 65mm or slightly over 2.5" -- Which is why I went with the universal tool so I can use it on the other 5-6 vehicles I service regularly, and to try something new.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

 

The filter is so easily accessible just turn it by hand, bit of force and a grippy glove and your done

 

Yeah,.. that's the plan after this first change -- but the prev. owner had every oil change done at Nissan, every light bulb changed at Nissan,.. windshield wiper fluid put in at nissan.. LIterally. Nissan is notorious for overtightening their OEM filters. Yes,.. I would get it off without a "tool".. I've stabbed a flathead through a filter and twisted it off before.. but these days I plan everything I do and order/obtain it all prior so things are more time and hassle than they have to be.. And Oil changes can be a mess for you and the driveway/garage.. Or they can be pretty clean with a little knowledge, experience, and the RIGHT tools

 

I'm putting a K&N on and Running Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 -- I don't trust anyone else to work on this car -- except for the HFC's I'm getting put on Sat or Monday due to not having a lift and proper tools primarily... If I had a lift I'd do it myself no question even with my relatively pathetic slew of tools I have now.

 

I paid a little more in ordering stuff this time to save in the the long run, be clean and efficient, and to do it right. So what all did I just buy..

 

I bought some Rhinoramps (16,000 pound ramps) for $40.. Got 6 Quarts (an extra quart came with the "deal" than I need) of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 for $40.. Plan on putting a new crush washer in for each oil change (which for me is no more than 3x a year usually (I don't put but 8-9k on a car usually)... and you know browsing EBAY.. well, I ran across the shiny , "magnetized" drain plugs for our 350z's.. that come with the crush washers.

 

So instead of just buying a pack of washers (which I didn't find btw).. I bought an $8 Magnetized new drain plug in an anodized Red with a Crush washer included (asked the seller to throw in a handful of washers if he would, we'll see on that one..) Hey,.. it will be easy to find next time --

 

I don't really think the magnetic drain plugs are going to make my engine last longer .. but I will clean the invariable iron deposits from it each change.

 

The universal Tool was after a bit of "what's best".. and measuring the specs listed on the 350Z filter (which is hella small for our engine) at close to 2.5" (65mm) (Most American cars are around 3" for example.. even on 4 cyl).. But it's spring loaded and will fit essentially all filters on all cars and suv's...

 

Bought a 4.5 Gallon Drain pan...

 

Bought a longer Funnel (my funnel(s) are short and used for other things)..

 

And bought some wheel chocks (I've been needing those.. could have used those half a dozen times already with this car)..

 

Think that's it.

 

So let's sum up lol..

 

K&N Oil Filter (I like the R and D with K&N, trust them.. And since I'm running Synthetic I might go 4-5k instead of 3k) :

6 Quarts of Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic (After reading lab reports, this seemed the best oil for my climate for the money as I'm switching to Synthetic at 27k miles)

Magnetized Drain plug (Mainly because I needed a new Crush washer (or I WANTED one.. let me rephrase )

Universal Filter Removal Tool (This seemed to be the best for the money to NOT be limited to just the 350Z)

8 Ton (16,000lb) Rhino Ramps (For two reasons.. They are light (7lbs a piece).. and are over 4 times the capacity of our cars (safer to be under) -- Oh and they are faster/easier than jacks/jackstands

4.5Gal Drain Pan (Cause I don't have one anymore..)

The "perfect" funnel to add the oil (was $1 )

Lastly.. Set of Wheel Chocks (Rhino Chocks) -- For safety,.. been needing these as aforementioned:

 

Is this more than an Oil change.. Hell yes! -- But believe it or not.. not by much here. A full synthetic Oil change here at a Full Serve place is $100+

 

But,.. In the future I can run Synthetics with a K&N filter for about $45 in cost .. (A regular Dino Oil change here is $60 Full Serve) *To pay $100+ for an oil change even for Synthetics is nuts imo*..

 

And, with my last car.. I would have just taken it to a shop that was slow.. (you can get Dino Oil done if you bring it to a shop you have to wait an hour+ for ..For about $40 (What a deal!)-- and Synthetic for about $80 in a shop you have to wait 1-2hours for.. (It's $110-$120 in the 10-15min places).

 

With this car.. it's my baby,.. I watch the techs do the quick oil changes.. and they don't even wait for the oil to drain back down before checking the oil level.. and in the shops you don't get to see what is going on (waiting for 1-2hours) they ALWAYS overfill for similar reasons.. And Overfill , while not as bad as dramatically underfilled.. is still hard on the motor/pump, etc.

 

We can turn this into an Oil change thread..

 

Who runs Full Synthetics? Who runs Synth Blends? Who runs Dino? (I think they are ALL fine.. )

 

And how long do you wait before changing your oil (do you do it yourself? or not?) -- What filter do you prefer? Any reason?

 

Not looking to turn this into a (X brand oil is better than Y oil.. go read the extensive reports on all the major brands, no point in hashing it here. )

Edited February 21, 2014 by Chromatic

[Chromatic]

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a27ce1adc

 

Should have been the first post/answer -- Well done sir. Filter is 65mm of course, 14 sided. That runs about $30 US,..

 

Thanks!

[Chromatic]

Ive 3 oil filter removal tools and the only one I ever use is the good old fashioned bike chain style one. Had no problem removing the zeds little oil filter using it. The only time ive had to buy a slip on oil filter spanner thinggy in order to use a 1/2inch wrench on it was for my Ducati 996 which requires the oil filter to be torqued up to some ridiculous measurement in order to stop oil leaks from it - typical Italian engineering.

 

I've had the tools.. they got lost in a move or two.. haven't been changing my own oil since I had my Mustangs.. So tooling up again slowly but surely.

 

I think this tool should work well for my 350, and my friends, and families cars I inevitably do for them (Brake jobs, Turning rotors, Oil changes (now again).., Belts, hoses, Window motors, everything short of rebuilding their engines

 

My typical regimen for my filter tightening is hand tight.. then about a 1/4 turn past this hand tight feeling. That's all a "car" engine needs typically.. A Ducatti... that's different

[Chromatic]

The filter is so easily accessible just turn it by hand, bit of force and a grippy glove and your done

 

I agree,.. this is how my filter installs will be from here on out -- But I'm dealing with an OEM Nissan filter put on by a Nissan Dealership. So I plan for the worst.. I've had some insanely tight filters from dealerships, in particular Nissan and Toyota. I didn't want to wrestle with the OEM filter,.. So got the tool that will turn it right off first time (That's the plan)

 

Dang, I forgot to order a box of disposable latex gloves! (kidding)

[Oz Striker]

I wouldn't use one of those aftermarket magnetic drain plugs, they are known for shearing. You can achieve the same effect by sticking a neodymium magnet close to the drain plug, just remove before draining oil.

 

Edited December 25, 2014 by Oz Striker

[Chromatic]

I wouldn't use one of those aftermarket magnetic drain plugs, they are known for shearing. You can achieve the same effect by sticking a neodymium magnet close to the drain plug, just remove before draining oil.

 

 

Interesting. I loved the one I ordered (which is above) -- Threads great,.. I don't use power tools on the drain plug,.. don't over tighten/torque. And with the synthetics I go 10,000 between changes. If you really think I should change it out for a non magnetic drain plug,.. would you mind linking me a drain plug that is preferable? I'm due to change it out as I've put 9800 miles since last change ..

 

Thanks

[Oz Striker]

I wouldn't use one of those aftermarket magnetic drain plugs, they are known for shearing. You can achieve the same effect by sticking a neodymium magnet close to the drain plug, just remove before draining oil.

 

 

Interesting. I loved the one I ordered (which is above) -- Threads great,.. I don't use power tools on the drain plug,.. don't over tighten/torque. And with the synthetics I go 10,000 between changes. If you really think I should change it out for a non magnetic drain plug,.. would you mind linking me a drain plug that is preferable? I'm due to change it out as I've put 9800 miles since last change ..

 

Thanks

 

Theres a seller on ebay that sells plugs and washers:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

I guess I exaggerated when i said they are "known for shearing", I think it is unlikely for even an aftermarket drain plug to shear, but you do hear of it happening on the odd occasion on various forums. Another reason why at least on my BMW i avoid aftermarket plugs is that OEM plugs have a hollow centre, supposedly makes them easier to remove should it shear, but i dont think thats the case with the 350z plug. Also the BMW has an aluminium pan, so if the magnetic piece at the end of the plug was to come loose and dislodge, it could interfere with the oil pick up, but that's not a worry on the 350Z with its steel oil pan. So with a steel pan, it means you can just stick the magnet close to the plug on the underside of the pan itself. I wondered how affective it would actually be, so i checked with an oven tray, seems like it would do the job.

 

 

Btw Chromatic, i like the Rhino ramps, where did you get them the US? I have a steel ramps i got from Germany, wide enough for 260 tyres and shallow enough incline for the Z, which makes life a bit easier, but they sure are heavy!

[Chromatic]

I wouldn't use one of those aftermarket magnetic drain plugs, they are known for shearing. You can achieve the same effect by sticking a neodymium magnet close to the drain plug, just remove before draining oil.

 

 

Interesting. I loved the one I ordered (which is above) -- Threads great,.. I don't use power tools on the drain plug,.. don't over tighten/torque. And with the synthetics I go 10,000 between changes. If you really think I should change it out for a non magnetic drain plug,.. would you mind linking me a drain plug that is preferable? I'm due to change it out as I've put 9800 miles since last change ..

 

Thanks

 

Theres a seller on ebay that sells plugs and washers:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

 

Yeah.. I searched around and found a box of 10 crush washers of proper size for 350Z for $4 on Amazon.. just takes a while to locate.

 

I guess I exaggerated when i said they are "known for shearing", I think it is unlikely for even an aftermarket drain plug to shear, but you do hear of it happening on the odd occasion on various forums. Another reason why at least on my BMW i avoid aftermarket plugs is that OEM plugs have a hollow centre, supposedly makes them easier to remove should it shear, but i dont think thats the case with the 350z plug. Also the BMW has an aluminium pan, so if the magnetic piece at the end of the plug was to come loose and dislodge, it could interfere with the oil pick up, but that's not a worry on the 350Z with its steel oil pan. So with a steel pan, it means you can just stick the magnet close to the plug on the underside of the pan itself. I wondered how affective it would actually be, so i checked with an oven tray, seems like it would do the job.

 

 

 

The magnetic plug I got just to get.. it's cheap,.. looks nice (even though you don't see it).. and a little magnetic bit won't hurt (certainly won't make a difference in the engine..) -- But will be interesting if any metal bits are even on it.

 

It's solidly built/molded/cut.. I don't see any reason it would be weaker, cross thread , warp or otherwise get damaged with any more likelihood than the stocker bolt. I don't over torque the bolt down anyhow.. most people (or many) people just put that oil pan bolt on as tight as they can with their hands..(ratchet) -- not knowing any better. When it doesn't need a ton of force, and more force can be damaging and can not seal properly. There is a reason it uses a crush washer.. it's not just for looks, or hassle of replacing (although many don't replace it)

 

 

Btw Chromatic, i like the Rhino ramps, where did you get them the US? I have a steel ramps i got from Germany, wide enough for 260 tyres and shallow enough incline for the Z, which makes life a bit easier, but they sure are heavy!

 

Thanks. I bought them on Amazon as well. Yes, I use Amazon a lot. It has everything,.. and with Prime shipping it really saves money vs. local (no tax so far). But I've seen them locally here in autopart stores. The ones I bought are particularly useful for cars like the 350Z where they are naturally a bit lower than other vehicles and you need that gradual ramp up to not damage your bumper.

 

They are light.. absolutely! I have a set of steel ramps I had for my mustangs years ago.. and I hate lugging those things around. The ramps are not only stronger than the steel (due to design) .. but a great deal lighter. Definite good investment for anyone who is planning on doing oil changes.

 

I'm actually due for one right now. I just ordered the Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic,.. (I found with a discount 6 Quarts (350Z takes 5).. for $36 (shipped)) -- Can't beat that , as it's $8+ locally per quart. Then I already had an extra K&N Hi-Perf filter as I was sent two by accident last time I changed.

 

I'm changing at 10,000 Miles (or 12 months.. whichever comes sooner). The mileage has hit much sooner lol.