andygore Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hi all, I have recently stripped my front calipers after a rough track day and have them blasted and painted and I'm fitting all new bolts and seal kits on these. I am just trying to find the torque setting for the bolts that fix the caliper back together (not fixing the caliper to the hub) does anyone know what this is? I cant seem to find it anywhere. Also when I took them off there seemed to be a grey thread lock on these, I would like to use this again but I am insure what it is. Does anyone have any ideas on this? Thanks in advance Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygore Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 cheers buddy! Is there any literature on the breakdown of the caliper itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Not 100% sure but i think the manual just advises against splitting the caliper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 cheers buddy! Is there any literature on the breakdown of the caliper itself? You can see the whole manual here:- http://www.350z-uk.c...-roadster-usdm/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I like the line that says "how to apply grease to brake pads" Now I know what they mean but it does sort of give the impression .... WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee BANG!!!!! Mind you it would get rid of that annoying squeal I get before they warm up Hmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygore Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 cheers buddy! Is there any literature on the breakdown of the caliper itself? You can see the whole manual here:- http://www.350z-uk.c...-roadster-usdm/ Cheers buddy that very helpful, I've just pilfered everything off there for future reference. Unfortunately they don't give the torque setting for the split bolts. I have on a 911 forum (with very similar calipers) a value of 75Nm so I think ill try this with a shed load of lock tight. Not 100% sure but i think the manual just advises against splitting the caliper I know I've read that everywhere but I have split calipers are cars and bikes for years now and never had an issue. I don't think you can do a proper refurb without splitting them. If a jobs work doing...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Best to refurb without splitting. You will also get a better finish with the paint or powder if you do not split. You will also have to fabricate new O rings as the old ones should not be reused and Nissan do not sell these. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygore Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Ive read that in a few places but I would prefer to strip it right down and replace all seals. With the caliper overheating and changed to a lovely shade of brown I wanted to make sire there was no damage anywhere. It took a while but I managed to source the internal O ring directly from Brembo. I torqued them up to 75Nm and they are doing great so far, Iv covered about 150 miles so far and they are spot on (so far). Iv just fitted some DS3000, so hopefully they will fend well at Cadwell Park in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 They look good - was the overheating due to excessive enthusiasm or what? Hoping to get to an evening at cadwell on 22/4 myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 On a related note. Changed my disks and pads at the weekend. I only have a "silverline" torque wrench, but there was no way in hell the bolts holding the calliper on to the hub were going to 150nm of torque, just did then up as tight as was physically possible and left it at that! Probably the wrench being out of calibration as its cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygore Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 They look good - was the overheating due to excessive enthusiasm or what? Hoping to get to an evening at cadwell on 22/4 myself. I have no idea, I did a track day at oulton park and at the end of the day they were just a weird brown colour. When I stripped them down I was expecting the seals to be melted but they were fine. I did a full rebuild on them regardless. On a related note. Changed my disks and pads at the weekend. I only have a "silverline" torque wrench, but there was no way in hell the bolts holding the calliper on to the hub were going to 150nm of torque, just did then up as tight as was physically possible and left it at that! Probably the wrench being out of calibration as its cheap. I bought a torque wrench from machine mart about 8-9 years back, it was a clarke one, it cost me £22 and it still works perfectly today. My old man got a halfords Pro one for around £80-£90 and it lasted around 12-18 months before it packed in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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