SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It is so annoying! Lasttime i was overheating it was due to the fan not working. I had replaced with Mishimoto dual fan and shroud setup courtesy of Zedmanalex. I know the fans are definately working as I sat and let the car build up to temperature and first fan kicked in and when i switch on aircon the second fan kicks in hard. Now what else could be the problem? I had a small coolant leak or so i thought so i used some radiator weld stuff which has solved the problem. But recently during a heavy traffic afternoon i noticed this on my dash. And ever since whenever im sat at idle or going slow the car temp climbs. Could it be possible the weld stuff has blocked my thermostat? I have turned on the heaters and the there is heat but I dont think its as hot as it used to be. I dont know if for sure. Could it be jammed slightly open? Or has the radiator weld messed up my water pump? This is so annoying as im supposed to be doing a trip up to scotland in 2weeks time for chinese new year. Iv also did an oil check my oil is slightly above high. Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Im just thinking i disconnected the top hose to drain a little coolant out so as i could add radiator weld. Could air in the system possibly cause it to overheat that much? I did sit with the car on idle and waited for all the bubbles to stop before topping up the radiator as to bleeding wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Yes airlock is issue by sounds of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhackyWill Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Agree with NeilP, sounds like an air lock, also have you checked the level in the rad maybe the leak hasn't stopped completely. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Im about to put on the ole mechanics suit and look.. the coolant had dropped from max by 1cm but that could be due to air. Im going to have a search through the forum about airlock but issit something fairly simple to do. There is onestep i missed out i forgot to take the bleeder valve when filling the coolant up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 "No airlock issues if you drain from the bottom of the radiator and refill carefully. To do a full flush you need to drain the fluid from the engine block too which will be difficult and you'll be more at risk of getting a lot of air in the system. I recommend only replacing what you drain from the radiator which was around 6L when I did it (there's approx 8.7L total coolant in system) There is a bleed screw at the top right of the engine bay near the firewall which you need to remove when you refill, coolant will bubble through it whilst you're filling it and when it overflows out with no bubbles replace the bleed screw and continue filling. You shouldn't get any air in the system that way, make sure you pour slowly. " Does this mean i have to drain the coolant out completely to get rid of airlock? Are there any how to's on getting rid of airlock Iv tried searching cant find anything as yet thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ioneabee Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/80147-the-overheating-probelm-that-has-baffled-the-zed-shed/page__st__20#entry1194338 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Issit normal to foam? I did it till there was no more foam or bubbles and capped it off then. did same with radiator cap. Now its not overheating but now i have no heat in the cabin at all.. whereas before it was warmish. Edited January 14, 2014 by SkylineV35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Dodgy radiator cap although foam would suggest air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suits Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I was going to suggest rad cap. One on a my Saxo went when I was a nipper and caused me loads of trouble. Foam or a hot spun up mixture of water and oil ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 If not an airlock then have you got colour change coolant that can indicate a gas leak? If gas keeps getting in then a head gasket leak is possible. Maybe your radweld has bunged up some of the rad, can you flush that through as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 I think the airbleed did the trick no more overheating.. but now I have a new problem. There is no hot air on idle... but when im drivng it gets hot, when im idling in traffic its cold, but when i rev it in traffic it gets warm. Is that the water pump problem? My radiator cap is a nismo effort and its pretty fine i think. i seen no leakage or foaming from radiator cap. Thanks guys I only have two weeks to solve this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It appears that you still have an airlock. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suits Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 ^^^^^ Yep, heaters not blowing correct temps is a sure sign of air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Dam airlock! So its not the waterpump then? sweet save me a few pennies. Ok If i put the front up on a jack and do the bleeding process again i should be fine yes? I skipped out the jacking as i didnt have one. Oh when i was descibing the hot and cold i wasnt talking about the temp gauge but the heat in the cabin btw Edited January 14, 2014 by SkylineV35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Erm...guys.. overheating is back and when i idle and rev to 3000rpm i can hear what can only seem as fluid rushing into the heater matrix i think.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suits Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Everything your describing, bubbling, heaters not giving out correct temps, points to air in the system. If you've bleed them correctly and it's still happening it might be worth getting a compression test or other gas test to rule out/in the head gasket. As air is getting in there somewhere, clearly. I'm no mechanic but that would be my route I think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Or should I just wing it in to nissan and let them to a coolant flush and change then at least something goes wrong iv got someone to blame? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suits Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Just wing it to Nissan and ask them to have a look at it, the right mechanic with the right tools should have it sussed pretty quick. Not got a Chinese Nisno rad cap have you ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 No mine is actually from super autobacs or something when i when i went to to tokyo.. so im 100% certain its a genuine lols Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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