Jump to content

Overheating Problems again!


SkylineV35

Recommended Posts

IMG-20140114-WA0007_zps7af19054.jpg

 

It is so annoying! Lasttime i was overheating it was due to the fan not working. I had replaced with Mishimoto dual fan and shroud setup courtesy of Zedmanalex. I know the fans are definately working as I sat and let the car build up to temperature and first fan kicked in and when i switch on aircon the second fan kicks in hard. Now what else could be the problem? I had a small coolant leak or so i thought so i used some radiator weld stuff which has solved the problem. But recently during a heavy traffic afternoon i noticed this on my dash. And ever since whenever im sat at idle or going slow the car temp climbs.

Could it be possible the weld stuff has blocked my thermostat? I have turned on the heaters and the there is heat but I dont think its as hot as it used to be. I dont know if for sure. Could it be jammed slightly open? Or has the radiator weld messed up my water pump?

 

This is so annoying as im supposed to be doing a trip up to scotland in 2weeks time for chinese new year.

Iv also did an oil check my oil is slightly above high.

Please help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im just thinking i disconnected the top hose to drain a little coolant out so as i could add radiator weld. Could air in the system possibly cause it to overheat that much? I did sit with the car on idle and waited for all the bubbles to stop before topping up the radiator as to bleeding wise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im about to put on the ole mechanics suit and look.. the coolant had dropped from max by 1cm but that could be due to air. Im going to have a search through the forum about airlock but issit something fairly simple to do. There is onestep i missed out i forgot to take the bleeder valve when filling the coolant up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"No airlock issues if you drain from the bottom of the radiator and refill carefully. To do a full flush you need to drain the fluid from the engine block too which will be difficult and you'll be more at risk of getting a lot of air in the system. I recommend only replacing what you drain from the radiator which was around 6L when I did it (there's approx 8.7L total coolant in system) There is a bleed screw at the top right of the engine bay near the firewall which you need to remove when you refill, coolant will bubble through it whilst you're filling it and when it overflows out with no bubbles replace the bleed screw and continue filling. You shouldn't get any air in the system that way, make sure you pour slowly. "

 

 

Does this mean i have to drain the coolant out completely to get rid of airlock? Are there any how to's on getting rid of airlock Iv tried searching cant find anything as yet thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20140114_180221_zps0ff15174.jpg

 

20140114_180428_zps2bfe876f.jpg

 

20140114_180438_zpsf8001e9b.jpg

 

Issit normal to foam? I did it till there was no more foam or bubbles and capped it off then. did same with radiator cap. Now its not overheating but now i have no heat in the cabin at all.. whereas before it was warmish.

Edited by SkylineV35
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the airbleed did the trick no more overheating.. but now I have a new problem. There is no hot air on idle... but when im drivng it gets hot, when im idling in traffic its cold, but when i rev it in traffic it gets warm. Is that the water pump problem?

 

My radiator cap is a nismo effort and its pretty fine i think. i seen no leakage or foaming from radiator cap.

 

Thanks guys I only have two weeks to solve this

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dam airlock! So its not the waterpump then? sweet save me a few pennies. Ok If i put the front up on a jack and do the bleeding process again i should be fine yes? I skipped out the jacking as i didnt have one. Oh when i was descibing the hot and cold i wasnt talking about the temp gauge but the heat in the cabin btw

Edited by SkylineV35
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything your describing, bubbling, heaters not giving out correct temps, points to air in the system.

 

If you've bleed them correctly and it's still happening it might be worth getting a compression test or other gas test to rule out/in the head gasket.

 

As air is getting in there somewhere, clearly.

 

I'm no mechanic but that would be my route I think.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...