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T cut classic clay bar kit


Briggsybriggs1

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  On 12/01/2014 at 14:16, Lexx said:
Clay Bar will.not remove scratches.

it removes contaminates from the paint work like tar and other industrial fallout.

T-Cut clay is too abrasive in my opinion. Try Meguirs.

Thanks for that iv already got the t cut stuff but will leave it for the wife's car now. Will pick the Meguirs stuff up then and give it a go thanks :-)

 

 

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Claying is for prepping paintwork to remove contaminants prior to paintwork correction, such as polishing. If you've never done it then I recommend it, but polish and protect the paintwork after. Clay won't remove the scratches and if not used properly will add more scratches, use lots of lube and fold regularly! I recommend the Megs kit too, pretty good stuff.

 

T-cut is the devils toothpaste.

Edited by Jp606
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  On 12/01/2014 at 21:09, Jp606 said:
Claying is for prepping paintwork to remove contaminants prior to paintwork correction, such as polishing. If you've never done it then I recommend it, but polish and protect the paintwork after. Clay won't remove the scratches and if not used properly will add more scratches, use lots of lube and fold regularly! I recommend the Megs kit too, pretty good stuff.

 

T-cut is the devils toothpaste.

Nice one will take the t cut one back to halfords :-) then give it a go iv polished and waxed my Z loads off times so. Clean if more than I drive it :-) , so I just use the clay bar loads off lube in straight lines and not to hard ?

 

 

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Yes, you barely need any pressure. Do a small area at a time, you will feel contaminants catching on the clay, then eventually it will run smooth and if you run your fingers over the panels you will be able to feel how smooth the paintwork is. It will take a bit of time to do the whole car. I always use some Iron X before claying as that does a good job at removing bits of tar, wash > iron x > rinse > clay > then correct and protect.

 

It's important to protect the paintwork after claying, as essentially you've got a completely unprotected finish.

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  On 13/01/2014 at 20:57, Jp606 said:
I always use some Iron X before claying as that does a good job at removing bits of tar, wash > iron x > rinse > clay > then correct and protect.

 

Iron-X doesn't remove tar, it removes fallout which is equally as important. You'll need a separate product to remove tar, such as Tar-X or better still Tardis. You're less likely to inflict marring with the clay if the tar and fallout has been removed prior to claying, but claying will itself remove tar and reduce fallout (clay actually cuts the top most part of fallout contamination off rather than removing it entirely like Iron-X will). So to amend your process slightly;

 

Wash - Iron-X - another rinse - Tardis - rinse - clay - rinse - correct - protect.

 

 

To the OP, if you're claying in this cold weather or if the panel is cold, warm the clay up in warm/hot water - I would split the bar into a few pieces and have a couple of bits warming in the water whilst using a third and then swap to a warmer piece every so often. Cold clay will damage paint, especially the soft Nissan paint.

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  On 13/01/2014 at 21:29, Ekona said:
  On 13/01/2014 at 21:15, ilogikal1 said:

or better still Tardis

Y'know, I've only just got that joke there :blush:

 

You may think your paint is smooth, but if you've never clayed then you ain't felt nothin' yet ;)

I used to play with clay at school , and thanks for the advise every one :-)

 

 

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