T cut classic clay bar kit

[Briggsybriggs1]

Hi so iv never used claybar before and my car bony work is as smooth as class already will it make any difference to it if I use the kit? My car gets a good wash and polish often

And will it get some cat scratches out ie

 

 

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[Lexx]

Clay Bar will.not remove scratches.

it removes contaminates from the paint work like tar and other industrial fallout.

T-Cut clay is too abrasive in my opinion. Try Meguirs.

 

[Briggsybriggs1]

Clay Bar will.not remove scratches.

it removes contaminates from the paint work like tar and other industrial fallout.

T-Cut clay is too abrasive in my opinion. Try Meguirs.

Thanks for that iv already got the t cut stuff but will leave it for the wife's car now. Will pick the Meguirs stuff up then and give it a go thanks :-)

 

 

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[Jp606]

Claying is for prepping paintwork to remove contaminants prior to paintwork correction, such as polishing. If you've never done it then I recommend it, but polish and protect the paintwork after. Clay won't remove the scratches and if not used properly will add more scratches, use lots of lube and fold regularly! I recommend the Megs kit too, pretty good stuff.

 

T-cut is the devils toothpaste.

Edited January 12, 2014 by Jp606

[Briggsybriggs1]

Claying is for prepping paintwork to remove contaminants prior to paintwork correction, such as polishing. If you've never done it then I recommend it, but polish and protect the paintwork after. Clay won't remove the scratches and if not used properly will add more scratches, use lots of lube and fold regularly! I recommend the Megs kit too, pretty good stuff.

 

T-cut is the devils toothpaste.

Nice one will take the t cut one back to halfords :-) then give it a go iv polished and waxed my Z loads off times so. Clean if more than I drive it :-) , so I just use the clay bar loads off lube in straight lines and not to hard ?

 

 

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[Jp606]

Yes, you barely need any pressure. Do a small area at a time, you will feel contaminants catching on the clay, then eventually it will run smooth and if you run your fingers over the panels you will be able to feel how smooth the paintwork is. It will take a bit of time to do the whole car. I always use some Iron X before claying as that does a good job at removing bits of tar, wash > iron x > rinse > clay > then correct and protect.

 

It's important to protect the paintwork after claying, as essentially you've got a completely unprotected finish.

[ilogikal1]

I always use some Iron X before claying as that does a good job at removing bits of tar, wash > iron x > rinse > clay > then correct and protect.

 

Iron-X doesn't remove tar, it removes fallout which is equally as important. You'll need a separate product to remove tar, such as Tar-X or better still Tardis. You're less likely to inflict marring with the clay if the tar and fallout has been removed prior to claying, but claying will itself remove tar and reduce fallout (clay actually cuts the top most part of fallout contamination off rather than removing it entirely like Iron-X will). So to amend your process slightly;

 

Wash - Iron-X - another rinse - Tardis - rinse - clay - rinse - correct - protect.

 

 

To the OP, if you're claying in this cold weather or if the panel is cold, warm the clay up in warm/hot water - I would split the bar into a few pieces and have a couple of bits warming in the water whilst using a third and then swap to a warmer piece every so often. Cold clay will damage paint, especially the soft Nissan paint.

[Ekona]

or better still Tardis

Y'know, I've only just got that joke there

 

You may think your paint is smooth, but if you've never clayed then you ain't felt nothin' yet

[Briggsybriggs1]

or better still Tardis

Y'know, I've only just got that joke there

 

You may think your paint is smooth, but if you've never clayed then you ain't felt nothin' yet

I used to play with clay at school , and thanks for the advise every one :-)

 

 

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