chirag1988 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Quick questions guys, do I need to sand in between coats of paint as well? I'm practising on an old phone cover and sanded it with 600, then one coat of white primer, sanded again with one coat of paint and now drying. Do I need to sand again with 1200 or add the second coat on once dry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 So I gave it a try today and this was the result I used the Fiesta Orange from Halfords - it has a nice pearlescent effect. It came out ok, there were a few ripples on one side but with a bit more practice I think I'll be ready for to do the actual bits. Pleased with the colour though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Colour look's good ~ can see the paint ripples you mention, but that's just where it's gone on a bit thick & it's run that's all. Practice make's perfect. Regards to the sanding it all depends on how smooth you want the finish. Sometimes it's not necessary to sand after you've rubbed down & primed then sprayed your end colour. Really up to you. If you do get paint runs though on your car parts after spraying the final coat you can always rub them down with wet & dry sand paper, then re-spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 That's the only thing I'm scared of - getting runs on the final product! But good to know it can be mended. The other thing I don't want to do is end up filling the holes on the battery and brake fluid cover - but like Easty said, just gotta make sure I do nice light coats. Once I get my slam panel I'll probably get that colour coded too so that the orange theme matches up nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Just do really light coats each time ~ don't try to rush it and give everything time to dry properly in between coats. You'll be fine I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Orange paint AND an orange slam panel? You're freaking CRAZY dude! But yeah, as the others have said, light coats are key. Other wise you'll end up with runs and maybe even orange peel! Edited January 15, 2014 by 14N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Orange paint AND an orange slam panel? You're freaking CRAZY dude! But yeah, as the others have said, light coats are key. Other wise you'll end up with runs and maybe even orange peel! It's the orange stickers on my bonnet dampers that's kick started the orange theme Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 I'm going to attempt to do my door switch panels this weekend - well start them at least! I'm going down the Plastidip route. Do I need to lacquer it afterwards or is it just primer -> plastidip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Chirag, you don't need primer with Plastidip, just lightly sand the area first to give it a key. Do not apply lacquer either, if you want a shiny finish to Plastidip they sell 'glossifiers' to use with their own products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Chirag, you don't need primer with Plastidip, just lightly sand the area first to give it a key. Do not apply lacquer either, if you want a shiny finish to Plastidip they sell 'glossifiers' to use with their own products. Oh right, I was under the impression everything needs to be primed as a rule of thumb. There was a thread here about someone who used plastidip too and he primed his beforehand. I don't really want a shiny finish, prefer a nice matte finish Not having to prime may just make my job easier then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Just spray it on dude, building it up using light coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) Yessir! Also how long should I wait in between coats? 30-45mins? Edited February 8, 2014 by chirag1988 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spatt Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Probably only 10-15 make sure parts are not cold Im using a hairdryer while im painting my engine cover because its freezing this time of year ( not sure if you have to do this with plast but better safe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Ok so I've made a bit of a c*ck up I removed the driver side switch panel and it came off nice and easy, Sanded and sprayed and ready to be fitted Here's what happened when I tried taking off the passenger side switch panel :scare: Luckily I had some solvent cement from my plumbing toolkit and I've glued it back together and will attempt at spraying it tomorrow hopefully once it sets My question is - is there an easy way to remove the passenger side? Because the actual silver handle which goes across it gets in the way and I'm worried the panel will snap when trying to put it back... Help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Oh dear Chirag The door handle is held on by 2 10mm bolts. Just pull the aluminium I eve off first by getting a flat screwdriver or blunt kitchen knife behind it, then there's a bolt, deep within the handle, one at the top, one at the bottom. A search on here or google should find a guide or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Thanks Ian, I'll have a look at that. As soon as it snapped, my heart sank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The morpheus guide is probably the best I've seen: http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/front_speakers/ You're interested in step 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 The morpheus guide is probably the best I've seen: http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/front_speakers/ You're interested in step 9 Legend mate! I've also PM'd Zmanalex and he said he may have one spare. I'll see if the plastidip covers up the crack but probably still get a new one anyway for peace of mind. Thanks Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) I have a driver side one to spare.. but my passenger one was in good shape and came off quite easily when I was doing my speaker install a little while back. But I've had pieces/trim pieces snap on me .. well just one.. Sometimes it happens.. they can get brittle and aren't exactly super strong to begin with. In hindsite I suppose I should have made it clear to remove the door Handle" (just two bolts).. before prying it off. You can blame me if you like. Edited February 12, 2014 by Chromatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 I have a driver side one to spare.. but my passenger one was in good shape and came off quite easily when I was doing my speaker install a little while back. But I've had pieces/trim pieces snap on me .. well just one.. Sometimes it happens.. they can get brittle and aren't exactly super strong to begin with. In hindsite I suppose I should have made it clear to remove the door Handle" (just two bolts).. before prying it off. You can blame me if you like. No no not blaming anyone it was an way mistake to make and luckily not an expensive one. I've asked some of the traders on here if they have a spare one going. I guess you learn from your mistakes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I have a driver side one to spare.. but my passenger one was in good shape and came off quite easily when I was doing my speaker install a little while back. But I've had pieces/trim pieces snap on me .. well just one.. Sometimes it happens.. they can get brittle and aren't exactly super strong to begin with. In hindsite I suppose I should have made it clear to remove the door Handle" (just two bolts).. before prying it off. You can blame me if you like. No no not blaming anyone it was an way mistake to make and luckily not an expensive one. I've asked some of the traders on here if they have a spare one going. I guess you learn from your mistakes Yessir.. I responded to your other thread.. and linked you a guide I've personally used.. It's really, really an easy process to take off that handle you are talking about (takes about 2 minutes at most).. If you bought one from Nissan it would be a solid $60-$90.. But you can definitely get them cheaper as you are already on top of.. especially since you are redoing them.. you are looking for the piece in any condition just solid. I still feel a little responsibility here as I didn't mention that piece and it's something technically needs to come off.. I totally forgot that the handle's lower bolt would restrict that piece coming off on the passenger side. Though there is a certain level of "pressure "when pulling these things off that I stop myself.. and think, ok something isn't right here. And have to look around more.. often going back to the internet and researching how things come apart a bit more. Then again.. I've broken a trim piece on this car using VERY little force.. it had simply become so brittle for whatever reason that there was no getting that off without some voodoo magic without it shattering in a dozen pieces. I've since fixed that of course.. and I had the forethought to order all the clip types our cars take from Ebay a week before I started my removal of the whole interior during my installs.. -- That was one of the best decisions I made. I replaced SO many clips, even found some that were broken already and/or missing. Saw those clips at local autoparts stores for $4+ dollars for one! I ordered a whole bag of them for around that price. In the future I'll be sure to at least go take a glance at my own vehicle before throwing out the "ok" on the procedure being the same on an opposite door, as those few seconds would have saved you a bit of a headache. Really wish I had a spare passenger panel and not just the spare driver panel for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 I have a driver side one to spare.. but my passenger one was in good shape and came off quite easily when I was doing my speaker install a little while back. But I've had pieces/trim pieces snap on me .. well just one.. Sometimes it happens.. they can get brittle and aren't exactly super strong to begin with. In hindsite I suppose I should have made it clear to remove the door Handle" (just two bolts).. before prying it off. You can blame me if you like. No no not blaming anyone it was an way mistake to make and luckily not an expensive one. I've asked some of the traders on here if they have a spare one going. I guess you learn from your mistakes Yessir.. I responded to your other thread.. and linked you a guide I've personally used.. It's really, really an easy process to take off that handle you are talking about (takes about 2 minutes at most).. If you bought one from Nissan it would be a solid $60-$90.. But you can definitely get them cheaper as you are already on top of.. especially since you are redoing them.. you are looking for the piece in any condition just solid. I still feel a little responsibility here as I didn't mention that piece and it's something technically needs to come off.. I totally forgot that the handle's lower bolt would restrict that piece coming off on the passenger side. Though there is a certain level of "pressure "when pulling these things off that I stop myself.. and think, ok something isn't right here. And have to look around more.. often going back to the internet and researching how things come apart a bit more. Then again.. I've broken a trim piece on this car using VERY little force.. it had simply become so brittle for whatever reason that there was no getting that off without some voodoo magic without it shattering in a dozen pieces. I've since fixed that of course.. and I had the forethought to order all the clip types our cars take from Ebay a week before I started my removal of the whole interior during my installs.. -- That was one of the best decisions I made. I replaced SO many clips, even found some that were broken already and/or missing. Saw those clips at local autoparts stores for $4+ dollars for one! I ordered a whole bag of them for around that price. In the future I'll be sure to at least go take a glance at my own vehicle before throwing out the "ok" on the procedure being the same on an opposite door, as those few seconds would have saved you a bit of a headache. Really wish I had a spare passenger panel and not just the spare driver panel for you. Hey dude it's cool I've managed to use solvent cement to put it back together and am spraying it with plastidip as we speak. Hopefully as it sets it will cover the cracks! Also even if you did have a spare passenger panel I don't think it would fit my car being a UK right hand drive, but I appreciate the thought let's see what the traders on here can come back with too. I'll get some pics up of my DIY job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The morpheus guide is probably the best I've seen: http://liljerk.morph...front_speakers/ You're interested in step 9 Legend mate! I've also PM'd Zmanalex and he said he may have one spare. I'll see if the plastidip covers up the crack but probably still get a new one anyway for peace of mind. Thanks Ian Chirag the cracks will probably still show through the plastidip paint unfortunately. If you want to still use the cracked piece the best way to sort it is to use car body filler to fill in the cracks where it joins. Then sand it back until the surface is smooth again. Then when you paint it you shouldn't be able to see the join. Otherwise I'd just get a new piece if you can. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirag1988 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 The morpheus guide is probably the best I've seen: http://liljerk.morph...front_speakers/ You're interested in step 9 Legend mate! I've also PM'd Zmanalex and he said he may have one spare. I'll see if the plastidip covers up the crack but probably still get a new one anyway for peace of mind. Thanks Ian Chirag the cracks will probably still show through the plastidip paint unfortunately. If you want to still use the cracked piece the best way to sort it is to use car body filler to fill in the cracks where it joins. Then sand it back until the surface is smooth again. Then when you paint it you shouldn't be able to see the join. Otherwise I'd just get a new piece if you can. You're right mate, I gave it a try but no good cracks still showing On the flip side Alex has managed to find me a spare one so it's all good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Moral of this story Chirag - Before you attempt anything, make sure you're familiar with what's involved. Don't just jump in feet first because you think you know how to do something. It always pays to double check. Fortunately it's just a simple piece of plastic this time. It's not like you totally f@&£?* up an expensive leather passenger seat or anything..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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