Aglii Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) What i use my car for is daily drive, and in summer time when the tracks are open both Quarter mile and drift, more drift though. Yes i know FI is probably way better for drift application, but i still want to do a NA project, not looking for crazy horsepower, just around 40-50hp and also i am making the car way lighter, the Zed just lost 200lbs on the first go at it, I tried to loose split it between the front and back and i have not sarcrifiesed any comfort... YET But it is not just about reducing weight, dont want to upset the perfect 50/50 balance of the Zed, for example i would imagine reducing weight in the back without reducing similar in the front would be quite bad, but im no expert, about mass, momentum or weight distubustion I am more starting to think about N/A way, both becouse ive never done a NA project before, always been in turbo or supercharger, dont need that much power and always can do that years from now, not plannig on selling either the Zed or the supercharger system, and even if i use it as a daily driver its fine if its out for sometime for tuning, got another car, and last of budget is not something that really worries me, but still dont wanna be spending money on something that does not help me, thats why i ask many questions. Exploring, finding the right combo of things etc.. At the moment i need answers to these question. 1. Best way to limit drivetrain loss, getting the power from engine down to the ground, ive seen ppl, making very good horsepower on fly, but only to loose like 25-35% of it, when it arrives to the wheel, i understand that drivetrain loss is normal, but surely must be some way to help limit that. My Zed is completly open diff, so quaife lsd would improve that right? atleast a good start? 2.Also about tuning, in my mind there are 3 options, HKS F-CON V-Pro , Haltech Platnium, and the Osaris uprev tuner, I have a good tuner thats not the problem, what i want to know is the more expensive one(haltech) really worth it? Does it have the capabillity to extract more hp/tq then the other two? 3. final gear ratio, looking for better accelration, dont care about top end speed, so what would the best for that? 4.Kinetex plenum, the black one, not the newer V+, Would that be a good move? with a good Motordyne spacer ofcourse, or is the spacer only better. Heard a lot of difrent things about this. 5. Headers, ive heard alot about the OEM headers being really good, and some say they only loose power with aftermarket headers, what do you guys think about this Thats it for now EDIT: Other mods that are either on the way or waiting to be installed. Full ARK performance dual exhaust - Test pipes Plenum spacer Cold air intake Walbro 255lph Bigger injectors And all the gaskets,seals,o-rings are being changed including stronger headgasket. Engine is currently out of the car. Edited December 28, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hensh65 Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I would bare in mind before starting an N/A build that you can easily spend upwards of £1000 and see less than 25 bhp increase. What sort of power are you looking to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Yes i know that, I got a vortech v2 supercharger system, but not sure if im going to use it. Just exploring the N/A way also Just looking for low/mid range tq and a little horsepower, I have a good tuner. I have the 287hp model,, 2003 base, also the car has lost around 200lbs recently I am going to buy a good lsd to get the power better down to the wheels and lighter flywheel sometime in the next months. Edited December 27, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hensh65 Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I would fit the supercharger and upgrade internals, then you have a reliable monster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Yes not sure i want to go the FI route again, had bad experince last time that cost me ALOT of money, Exploring N/A so if someone can inform me about camshaft,lifts,duration etc would be appriciated and what kinda gains i am looking at Edited December 27, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) The trouble is what your looking for will be a compromise as to increase torque at lower RPM will require a totally different profile, and will likely be at the expense of higher RPM power, that is the whole point of the std VVTI on the inlet cams.Generally speaking higher lift and duration cams will always push the peak torque and power further up the RPM range. As for drive train the flywheel wont affect that, you will need things like a carbon fiber prop shaft, and reduce drive shaft and pinion gear weight, however it will be expensive, also a different type of diff will not necessarily make any difference other than type, I thought all Zs came with LSD of some type anyway? Edited December 27, 2013 by Tricky-Ricky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350 Russ Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 the zed comes with as standard a Carbon composite prop shaft anyway i think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the input on cams, then i guess that is out of the question, then on to the next thing, getting power to the ground!. The base model US version is a completly open diff not even VLSD, so that must help the power to the ground, a quelify drop in lsd, and what more would you recommand, money is not really the problem, but ofcourse i dont want to be spending money on useless things, ill leave that to the stupid ppl What final gear ratio is recommanded for best acceleration, dont care about loosing top end speed Edited December 27, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Agili, I think you need to focus your questions after you have resolved where you want to go with your build because you will not only get more confused but receive uninformed advice. Secondly you need to think hard what you want the car to be; GT or drift or track or fast road eg. The zed is all round a good GT car but to get it to be the others requires specific modifications. Finally and ultimately it comes down to budget. So look at that too. The good thing is whatever route you choose you can get there in stages but only if its clear what path you want to opt for. Overall a built high revving NA car will be exciting but if it power you want then you have to go FI. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Yes, First i am gathering information about both ways, then i deside What i use my car for is daily drive, and in summer time when the tracks are open both Quarter mile and drift, more drift though. Yes i know FI is probably way better for drift application, but i still want to do a NA project, not looking for crazy horsepower, just around 40-50hp and also i am making the car way lighter, the Zed just lost 200lbs on the first go at it, and i have not sarcrifiesed any comfort... YET I am more starting to think about N/A way, both becouse ive never done a NA project before, always been in turbo or supercharger, dont need that much power and always can do that years from now, not plannig on selling either the Zed or the supercharger system, and even if i use it as a daily driver its fine if its out for sometime for tuning, got another car, and last of budget is not something that really worries me, but still dont wanna be spending money on something that does not help me, thats why i ask many questions. Exploring, finding the right combo of things etc.. At the moment i need answers to these question. Best way to limit drivetrain loss, getting the power from engine down to the ground, ive seen ppl, making very good horsepower on fly, but only to loose like 25-35% of it, when it arrives to the wheel, i understand that drivetrain loss is normal, but surely must be some way to help limit that. Also about tuning, in my mind there are 3 options, HKS F-CON V-Pro , Haltech Platnium, and the Osaris uprev tuner, I have a good tuner thats not the problem, what i want to know is the more expensive one(haltech) really worth it? Does it have the capabillity to extract more hp/tq then the other two? Thats it for now Edited December 27, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desey Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 if you wanna drift spend the money on suspension parts, handbrake, and an open or 2way diff.... the extra 40bhp you blew £1500 on wont make much difference getting you sideways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Yes know that, got that part covered, thats not what im asking thanks anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 In all seriousness......clearly you are determined to go the NA route. Which I give you credit for. I prefer NA to boost too. But.....you will spend an awful lot of cash trying to attain an extra 50bhp and probably ruin the general drive of the car when using it as a daily driver. I would suggest as said above - decide exactly what you want the car to be primarily. If you want it more track/drift orientated then consider getting a daily shed. Price everything up to get to the NA levels you want......then compare that to the cost of doing an engine swap to a LSx. The extra cost of the LSx swap in my opinion is worth it. 440hp from a LS3 out of the box, and then only a few £k extra for cams and efi-live map to get another 60bhp+ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Not trying to be an asshole or anything but you could have just answer my questions i am actully asking instead of telling me that its going to cost so much, go FI or do an LS swap etc.. Its going to cost much whatever route we go, think everybody knows that. BUT big thanks to GT4 Zed who explained this all to me very well, ive got all my answers. Edited December 28, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Chill out. People are only trying to help and offer various advice and maybe offer options you may not have thought of. This is a forum. If you open up a thread, expect all sorts of replies. If you had specifically started your thread requesting no chat and just answers then that maybe what you would have got. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglii Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) I am chill, but already got my answers so im good Edited December 28, 2013 by Aglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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