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350z Clutch Master/Slave issues??


Bolt666

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Hi All!

 

I have just had the pleasure of changing my clutch and now cannot get the clutch pedal back...

 

I have tried bleeding for what seamed like days and still the pedal only returns by 2" or so! I have even adjusted the clutch master rod to push more fluid through but still the issue remains.

 

I therefore assume that the master or slave cylinder is dead.... Could this be the case? Note that I have not found any leaks in the system and fluid does pump through.....

 

If this is the case can any one advise where I can get these from as everywhere seems to be US based!

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When my techs bled my clutch after a slave cylinder change, initially they couldn't get the clutch pedal back. I'm not sure what the "normal" process is for most cars, but once I found this from the workshop manual and showed them, they changed technique slightly and my pedal came back shortly after. Sorry to be a bit vague, but this content did make a difference.

 

I seem to remember when I bought it from Zmanaalex he said there was a "knack to it".

 

image_zpscf714352.jpg

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Thanks for the responses.

 

I have not tried vacuum pump as I do not have the equipment. I have tried every method under the sun using the normal clutch depressing methods.. including the one above.. I can try again though....

 

I will give the 'compressed pedal over night' option a go as well!

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  • 1 month later...

Ok...

 

Still not managed to get anywhere with this and I have had enough of using cars without heating this time in the year!

 

Unless anyone has any miraculous ideas I am going to buy either a vacuum pump or pressurised bleeder system....

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Not sure I can mention names and links on this forum so...

 

Clutch off a large internet auction site with item description "NISSAN 350Z FAST ROAD CARBON KEVLAR CLUTCH KIT". Suggests it should fit in description...

 

Changed pressure plate, release bearings and clutch (not flywheel) only... All appears to have gone back on as before....

 

It has 50% of pedal and after pumping can be driven JUST... but needs a quick pump before gear change....

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  • 1 month later...

More time spent at the weekend looking at this! Still no hope!

 

Will be listing the 350Z as scrap soon!

 

Isn't that a little hasty? Perhaps a trip to a specialist on the back of a trailer before breaking up a modern classic?

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Was joking on the 'scrapping' comment!

 

I cannot see that the assembly is wrong as it looks as it did before to my knowledge. I bought a 'Nissan 350Z Z33 VQ35DE (2002-2007)' for my 2006 manual 350z... I assume that this is correct as it has the "DE" in the part number and believe mine must be the DE based on its age...

 

It does have half the pedal and with a bit of pumping can change gear so it implies that there is air in the system.

 

Pumping takes a lot of fluid through so think the master rod adjustment must be okay.

 

I am tempted to get a flexi pipe from master to slave to eliminate any potential issues in the pipe work but maybe a bit of an extreme measure as it is costly!

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Try two people to bleed it. One in the car you on the bleed nipple

With the bleed nipple closed Get the other person to pump the pedal up and down 5 times and then hold it down.

You then open the bleed nipple and let the fluid out. When the pressure has released you close the bleed nipple.

Only then can the person in the car let the pedal come back up.

Do this 5 times or so and make sure you dont let the fluid run out in between times.

 

If you have air trapped this should help shift it.

Edited by gsexr
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Try two people to bleed it. One in the car you on the bleed nipple

With the bleed nipple closed Get the other person to pump the pedal up and down 5 times and then hold it down.

You then open the bleed nipple and let the fluid out. When the pressure has released you close the bleed nipple.

Only then can the person in the car let the pedal come back up.

Do this 5 times or so and make sure you dont let the fluid run out in between times.

 

If you have air trapped this should help shift it.

 

I have tried every method under the sun! The hand book method, suction bleed and all those I could find on the forum........ The latest was a 30 sec resting period after the cycle of slow 2-3 sec pumping x 10 and crack open nipple... still no luck

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Are you absolutely certain that you have backed the clutch master cylinder to peddle adjustment off enough? there should be a bit of free play before you feel resistance , I would back it all the way off before bleeding as you can easily have one of the cylinder holes covered which prevents proper bleeding.

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  • 2 weeks later...

New Development - Transmission out again... Studied parts.... Called Nissan.... Now I need help!

 

I believe the clutch is wrong - the pressure plate do not look alike. I have called Nissan and they said the part per their system on my chassis number is 30205CD021 (later reversion 30205CD00B and current 30205CD00C). I asked them to check if this matched and 03 car or a 07 car and it turns out both used different clutches..... So now I am really lost as my car seems to have its own special clutch! They have quoted almost £500 for this which seems a lot!

 

See the image below for new vs old (new being red)

 

post-20814-0-48112000-1393522147_thumb.jpg

 

Anyone know what after market clutch kit I need???

 

Thanks in advance!

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So you eventually did listen: :lol:

 

Nissan list 4 different part numbers for applications between 2003 and Jan. 2007 for the DE.

 

However they are all interchangable.

 

All aftermarket clutch covers will look different from OEM so appearance is not a factor.

 

What you will have to do is measure the height of the covers and compare.

 

Measure from the tip of the diaphragm to the face of the friction surface.

 

Alex. :)

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Thanks for the reply Alex,

 

I am more confused now then as I see no reason why the clutch does not work. I have taken to a garage who have confirmed there was no air in the system and have bled the system again. They suggested that clutch kit must have been wrong as you can move the clutch fork with your hand under the car (by a cm or two) when the pedal is not under pressure.

 

They took the transmission out and said it was fitted correctly..... Worth swapping the sent clutch for a new one and assuming that it was manufactured incorrectly?

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