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RS Tuning Remaps


OV53

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I personnaly would go for someone thats done them b4 and knows what the fek they are doing.

Whilst competition is a healthy thing I spent months making a list b4 I got the car.

In the end it came down to 2 companies.

Ben at AMD Essex, and Mark at Abbey Motors.

Although the prices were about the same for what I wanted ie Milltek, decats and up-rev I went with Mark.

Reason is he took the trouble to explain things and didn't get the hump when I asked questions.

I was extreamly happy with the work and it was like getting into a different car.

I think I stuck 1000mls on it in a week as I just wanted to drive it.

It was based on this that I went for the GTM, and even though I nearly killed myself the day after I got it I still almost 2 years on love it to bits.

Only had a few proplems and that was the clutch could not handle the power.

So I rang a company in USA and ordered a new heavy duty 600bhp clutch and presure plate.

Absolutely no reason to replace the fly wheel as my opinion is if something works then keep it.

The only issues I have had with the GTM is the Air filter could have been designed to fit somewhere else.

It was so full of siht that it had sucked in on it'self so a blast out and reshape and I got the roar back.

As a few of you know after doing a sound off at Essex Arena in July smoke started to come out of the Intercooler.

And the revs went up to 1500 after sitting 3 hrs in roadwoks.

This high reving went on all week until I could get it down to my mates workshop in Swanley.

We checked all the vacum pipes for leaks and started it back up. It was still on 1500 revs so we took the pipes off the BOV.

There was air rushing out of the large black pipe at the bottom on tickover.

A few phone calls to the techno guys who were all at Brands racing and we drove across to them.

They all said the wast gate is sticking and tapped it gently with a hammer end.

The revs dropped down straight away to about 1200.

Anyway I am driving down to Newhaven early Tuesday Morning so I can use a mates ramp to take this BOV off and hopefully strip it down.

I still cant identify it and even Mike from GTM cannot remember which one it is.

Looks like the Bosche one they use on the 911.

Cant say anymore until Tuesday.

But if anyone can recommend a decent blow of value that can handle the extra power i would be obliged.

I will get the measurements Tuesday and post them up.

Sorry to hijack the thread lol.

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This fits in nicely with my Mods in progress at the moment. Driving 2010 370Z ed

Had the Berks Decats & Invader Gemini system on for about three weeks and when giving it some throttle the sound is absolutely fantastic but under steady acceleration or just plodding round i am sometimes finding it a little bit droany, so a little undecided to keep the decats on

No doubt as soon as i take them off i will want the back on again cause i havent had my windows up since i done the exhaust Mods :lol: I I have the Stillen Gen 3 waiting to go on just waiting for the rest of my Mods to come in so i can spend a full time at the garage to complete my Mod list then Remap time

 

My question is if i have the remap done then take the berks off do i need it remapped again?

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My question is if i have the remap done then take the berks off do i need it remapped again?

 

Yes, but it won't cost as much because the license is already paid for, so it's just the dyno time it takes to make the adjustments in the map.

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And the revs went up to 1500 after sitting 3 hrs in roadwoks.

This high reving went on all week until I could get it down to my mates workshop in Swanley.

We checked all the vacum pipes for leaks and started it back up. It was still on 1500 revs so we took the pipes off the BOV.

There was air rushing out of the large black pipe at the bottom on tickover.

A few phone calls to the techno guys who were all at Brands racing and we drove across to them.

They all said the wast gate is sticking and tapped it gently with a hammer end.

The revs dropped down straight away to about 1200.

 

Pete, I am afraid you wrong with bypass valve is before the Throttle body , so even if the bypass valve was stuck open it wouldnt make the car idle high as the idle speed is controlled via the fly by wire throttle. The bypass valve actually bleeds back into the intake system.

 

It will be the ECU causing the high idle speed the reason the intercooler being so hot will be the ECU retarding the timing to try to control the high idle speed.

 

 

Bypass valve is a Turbosmart valve, we carry them in stock.

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This fits in nicely with my Mods in progress at the moment. Driving 2010 370Z ed

Had the Berks Decats & Invader Gemini system on for about three weeks and when giving it some throttle the sound is absolutely fantastic but under steady acceleration or just plodding round i am sometimes finding it a little bit droany, so a little undecided to keep the decats on

No doubt as soon as i take them off i will want the back on again cause i havent had my windows up since i done the exhaust Mods :lol: I I have the Stillen Gen 3 waiting to go on just waiting for the rest of my Mods to come in so i can spend a full time at the garage to complete my Mod list then Remap time

 

My question is if i have the remap done then take the berks off do i need it remapped again?

 

when you have the car mapped have it mapped with the stock and HFC's fitted and have the 2 different maps loaded into the multi maps. You can have a map for both Cat set ups then.

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And the revs went up to 1500 after sitting 3 hrs in roadwoks.

This high reving went on all week until I could get it down to my mates workshop in Swanley.

We checked all the vacum pipes for leaks and started it back up. It was still on 1500 revs so we took the pipes off the BOV.

There was air rushing out of the large black pipe at the bottom on tickover.

A few phone calls to the techno guys who were all at Brands racing and we drove across to them.

They all said the wast gate is sticking and tapped it gently with a hammer end.

The revs dropped down straight away to about 1200.

 

Pete, I am afraid you wrong with bypass valve is before the Throttle body , so even if the bypass valve was stuck open it wouldnt make the car idle high as the idle speed is controlled via the fly by wire throttle. The bypass valve actually bleeds back into the intake system.

 

It will be the ECU causing the high idle speed the reason the intercooler being so hot will be the ECU retarding the timing to try to control the high idle speed.

 

 

Bypass valve is a Turbosmart valve, we carry them in stock.

 

 

Well I am always wrong where this car is concerned!

Might explain the massive MPG loss!

There never has been a happy medium with the idle.

Its either to high or to low.

I was looking for something mechanical because it was during a sound off that this happened!

Thanks for the info Mark.

 

 

 

 

 

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Again, what about 370's? If it's a 'Yes' then I'm in.

 

Give the guy a chance lol

Fair point, but in my defence it was another day and the start of another shift between each post! I'm in Korea...

 

The forum is usually run on word of mouth lol. and a bit of pee taking. It takes a while to get things done on here as people work.

Just think, sedate slow, get there in the end and you will be fine:)

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And the revs went up to 1500 after sitting 3 hrs in roadwoks.

This high reving went on all week until I could get it down to my mates workshop in Swanley.

We checked all the vacum pipes for leaks and started it back up. It was still on 1500 revs so we took the pipes off the BOV.

There was air rushing out of the large black pipe at the bottom on tickover.

A few phone calls to the techno guys who were all at Brands racing and we drove across to them.

They all said the wast gate is sticking and tapped it gently with a hammer end.

The revs dropped down straight away to about 1200.

 

Pete, I am afraid you wrong with bypass valve is before the Throttle body , so even if the bypass valve was stuck open it wouldnt make the car idle high as the idle speed is controlled via the fly by wire throttle. The bypass valve actually bleeds back into the intake system.

 

It will be the ECU causing the high idle speed the reason the intercooler being so hot will be the ECU retarding the timing to try to control the high idle speed.

 

 

Bypass valve is a Turbosmart valve, we carry them in stock.

 

I want to change the BOV one day for one that goes Woooshhhh :)

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Again, what about 370's? If it's a 'Yes' then I'm in.

 

Give the guy a chance lol

Fair point, but in my defence it was another day and the start of another shift between each post! I'm in Korea...

 

The forum is usually run on word of mouth lol. and a bit of pee taking. It takes a while to get things done on here as people work.

Just think, sedate slow, get there in the end and you will be fine:)

Well thank you for the advice, I've no idea as to how I've gotten this far in life without little nuggets of wisdom like that :dry: Anyway, I've got to get back to work and let's get back on topic eh? :p

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And the revs went up to 1500 after sitting 3 hrs in roadwoks.

This high reving went on all week until I could get it down to my mates workshop in Swanley.

We checked all the vacum pipes for leaks and started it back up. It was still on 1500 revs so we took the pipes off the BOV.

There was air rushing out of the large black pipe at the bottom on tickover.

A few phone calls to the techno guys who were all at Brands racing and we drove across to them.

They all said the wast gate is sticking and tapped it gently with a hammer end.

The revs dropped down straight away to about 1200.

 

Pete, I am afraid you wrong with bypass valve is before the Throttle body , so even if the bypass valve was stuck open it wouldnt make the car idle high as the idle speed is controlled via the fly by wire throttle. The bypass valve actually bleeds back into the intake system.

 

It will be the ECU causing the high idle speed the reason the intercooler being so hot will be the ECU retarding the timing to try to control the high idle speed.

 

 

Bypass valve is a Turbosmart valve, we carry them in stock.

 

Well I guess you were right then Mark as the BOV was not stuck closed, It was stuck open!

I did however notice when I stripped it down that the piston was very weak, and the possible cause was the spring has been reduced a tad.

I presume this is to make it open quicker/easier?N

 

1st Picture is of the BOV (Blow Off Valve) so people know what it looks like.

 

IMG_0990_zpscd909d26.jpg

 

 

This picture shows the spring and were it has had the burr rubbed off after size reduction.

 

IMG_0991_zps404fb96b.jpg

 

What I did notice though was that the sealing rubber had come out of place and the piston was heavily scored all over it.

This could have been the reason why it appeared to have stuck.

So when my mate tapped it wih a hammer handle it may have moved it, but it soon stuck again.

As per next 2 pictures.

 

IMG_0992_zps6c5af8ee.jpg

 

IMG_0993_zpsb8f9a8a3.jpg

I just cleaned it all up and rubbed an oily rag on it.

 

It can stay in the Garage now until I get some pennies to have the ECU played with.

And get a split BOV, so not only does it recirculate as the set up would have allowed for this,

it also should go whoosh as it vents through the trumpet back into the atmosphere!

The BOV I want is A Turbosmart split at round £300.

At least they are easy to fit on.

Edited by 4RE Leather
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It isn't a dump valve on a SC car, it's called a bypass valve, it's use is to make the cruise off of boost, even at high rpm with the throttle opened a small amount you get enough vac to open the bypass valve and stop the car producing boost so making the car more ecomical.

 

The Vortech cars vent to atmosphere this is why they are do noisy when being cruised at small throttle openings.

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