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changing the wheels - advice needed


pdg32

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Hi,

 

What with the change of seasons and all that, a mate and I will shortly be swapping over the RAYS for the GT Wheels that are wrapped in winter rubber. I know the temps aren't yet consistently 7 degrees, but they will be soon enough and there's a lot more wet and grim weather coming now.

 

Please could anyone advise as to any basic pointers to bear in mind, such as the torque wrench settings for the wheels, any jacking hints (presumably one corner at a time is the way to go), and so on. Are there any pinned guides on changing wheels? Couldn't find any on searching.

 

I've never even attempted to look at the spare wheel in the boot, but should there be a jack / toolkit in there somewhere? My friend has jacks, breaker bars, torque wrench, sockets etc so guessing that will suffice.

 

Thanks in advance folks,

 

PdG

Edited by pdg32
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Locking nuts off first and on last and don't do them up too tightly after. :) If you use a trolly jack then make a wooden block with a groove cut in it so as not to damage the sill around the jacking point. Break the nuts before jacking and tighten fully when off the jack. :p There's probably more advice along soon................ :teeth:

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how do you mean? sorry but i really need an idiot's guide here; not done this before (ashamed to say it) myself..... any photos of this diff on the rear / jack?

what about torque wrench settings for the locking nuts please?

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how do you mean? sorry but i really need an idiot's guide here; not done this before (ashamed to say it) myself..... any photos of this diff on the rear / jack?

what about torque wrench settings for the locking nuts please?

From what I've read it's around 80-90 ft/lbs torque for the standard nuts but I'm unsure if you should do the locking wheel nut's up to that setting or a slightly lower torque.
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Jacking points are as follows:

 

oeYuZUL.jpg

 

Easiest was is to use a trolley jack under the 'garage jack points' which will lift the entire front end/rear end, instead of having to do one corner at a time with the useless jack in the boot. You will need a low entry jack however, or alternatively drive up onto a couple of wood blocks so you can get your jack under the car. I recommend that you put axle stands under the 'safety stand points' if you remove both front/rear wheels or are going under the car.

 

Wheel nuts need to be torqued to 108Nm/80ft-lb.

 

Not that clear but this is a pic of when my car was jacked a few weeks ago on the rear diff to give you an idea:

 

fCXc9Aj.jpg

Edited by Jp606
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