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10k miles from brake pads, is that ok?


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Hi all,

 

I just picked up my car last week, so far very happy indeed. I have just ordered new pads as mine are getting low and starting to make some funny noises. I'm just wondering if the 10k miles the current pads have done is normal? I've not had a real performance car before but 10k seems a bit low. The discs are grooved which I suspect has shortened the pad life.

 

What do you think?

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If the cars been driven hard then 10,000 miles would be a reasonable wear rate but it really depends on they type of pad that's in there. Grooved discs generally wont affect the wear rate.

 

I've seen customers wear pads out on the road in a couple of thousand miles!

 

If you need new pads we have various options in stock drop us a PM for more details if your interested :)

 

Ewen

Clark Motorsport

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I don't think the car has been tracked, I'll be inspecting further tomorrow when I can get the wheels off to try and identify the discs and pads, will also check they are the right way around. I've only had the car a week and I have no idea if the previous owner was a heavy braker or not. The paper work only says the pads were replaced last year and that they were supplied by the customer.

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Another quick question, which I haven't been able to find an answer to on the forum. Is it possible to check the inside rear pads without removing the dust guard? I checked the fronts fine after taking a wheel off but the rear dust guard makes it impossible. Do I need to take the pads out to check them?

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This little saga continues, I decided to put this here rather than start a new thread.

 

I've done the front so far, with new Pagid discs and yellow stuff pads. It looks like the discs were EBC and the pads were Ferodo, not sure which type.

 

Unfortunately whoever fitted the previous discs cross threaded the bottom bolts on both the front calipers. I haven't checked the rears yet but hoping these aren't the same. I'm going to get a tap and new bolts and attempt to fix the caliper (my tap and die set doesn't have a tap big enough) but if this doesn't work, would I be better off tapping a bigger thread and getting bigger bolts or would a helicoil be ok? I've not used helicoils before, so I'm not sure if they are strong enough for this application.

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Ollie,

 

Best to get a new tap the correct size and just carefully retap the threads.

 

If that fails then a helicoil will work if fitted properly.

 

Do not go oversize as you will have a problem sourcing the correct bolts and you would have to machine out the upright caliper fixing holes which is not a good idea.

 

Stock OEM front and rear caliper bolts are in stock if required.

 

Alex. :)

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Ollie,

 

Best to get a new tap the correct size and just carefully retap the threads.

 

If that fails then a helicoil will work if fitted properly.

 

Do not go oversize as you will have a problem sourcing the correct bolts and you would have to machine out the upright caliper fixing holes which is not a good idea.

 

Stock OEM front and rear caliper bolts are in stock if required.

 

Alex. :)

 

Thanks Alex, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Once I've checked the rears I will be in touch for the bolts.

 

Due to the vibration and forces on the brake callipers. If you do use a helicoil, try to get a locking one or a Spiralock helicoil as these are much more robust to vibration.

 

Thanks for the tip!

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