How to - sort a broken wheel nut

[Keyser]

I have seen a few threads on here about broken (rounded) or jammed wheel nuts especially on spacers as well as the good old “I lost my locking wheel nut key†threads.

 

I have fixed a couple but as Buster managed the mother of all **** ups (as only he can)

I thought I’d do a little guide on how to get it out and still save the wheel and the spacer

 

OK The best way to get into this mess is use badly designed (read cheap) spacers and alloy wheel nuts – I have come across the problem of the alloy nuts before Busters were D1’s now the whole set is in the bin – I doubt it was over tightening on Busters side but they were pre-owned either way the threads had stretched and this was causing them to jam on the wheel studs.

 

Now when Buster attempted to remove one of the studs it undid about 1cm then jammed on the thread, unfortunately the next thing to go was the stud broke the threads in the spacer so now the stud and nut turned as one.

The fix is the same for a rounded nut but its slightly harder the way!

 

The offending nut

 

 

Starting with a 6mm QUALITY drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the middle of the nut and through the stud

 

The depth can be judged using a thinner drill bit or screwdriver

 

It makes a mess

 

 

I drill slowly so as not to overheat the drill bit and a drop of oil won’t hurt.

 

Now drill down using a 13mm drill bit try to stay on centre if you get it right the Nut will come off

 

 

 

This is what’s left of the stud on the spacer

 

 

Remove the spacer

 

 

As you can see this is the bad design the studs bolt in so as you tighten the wheel nuts you loosen the studs

 

Drilled stud

 

 

Now drill the spacer out to 13mm

 

Pop over to your spare hub

 

 

And knock out a stud

 

 

Place the stud into the spacer and give it a squeeze in your 12 ton press

 

 

 

Jobs a good un, check the alloy around where the stud was pressed in you may find a slight bulge – I did

 

So a bit of careful sanding

 

 

Buy a new set of STEEL wheel nuts and put your wheels back on.

 

I also removed all the other studs in the spacer and put copious amounts of thread lock on before re tightening them – hopefully it won’t happen again!

 

Hope it helps someone

 

 

 

The Zed Shed Crew

[HollowPoint]

Good how to! A similar problem with the stretched threads can happen, when people use even cheaper spacers, without studs and also don't extend the stock wheel studs. This happened on one of the 300s we bought, the guy had put 25mm of spacers on the front wheels, with stock studs and stock nuts!!!! When we got back from Scotland to Yorkshire, we discovered this (Amongst other things, like the drivers front calliper not actually being bolted tight to the hub) and were very relieved my wife wasn't killed driving it back. Can't stress enough the importance of ensuring your wheel studs are right!

[leonk]

Excellent guide Keyser. I suppose if you didn't have a hydraulic press, a good vice would do?

[Keyser]

Excellent guide Keyser. I suppose if you didn't have a hydraulic press, a good vice would do?

 

Should do as long as you get it square - I used a socket on the back to get a nice square even surface to press on - you will also find most garages with a press would do it for a drink

[Mopedmark]

Good guide Mr Keyser man

[DoogyRev]

 

Place the stud into the spacer and give it a squeeze in your 12 ton press

 

 

 

 

Now where did I leave my press

 

Excellent guide Mr K

[glrnet]

Ok, I have D1spec ally wheel nuts, should I be concerned and change back to steel or is this to do with the fact that Bob has had his wheels on and off more than the UN have said they'll intervene somewhere!!? Serious question despite my frivolity.

[Keyser]

My advice is keep an eye on them,

 

IMO it's over tightening that kills them, we had someones in the other day where the wheel nuts were ridiculously tight - We used the breaker bar to loosen them and the threads literally fell out of them once off,

Over use of air guns could well be a cause.

 

If your concerned it maybe worth just going round the car to see if you can undo all the nuts - if you do them one at a time, off then back on with a torque wrench you don't even need to jack the car up.

 

At least you will know that if you get a puncture you can change the wheel

 

 

 

@ DoogyRev - You know you can borrow mine anytime your passing

[glrnet]

Thanks Chris, always tighten mine to 100/110 ft lb torque, chatted with Bob this morning and we think the set he got may have been a 'knock of'. I'm fairly certain mine were genuine, had on them on for Wales and no issues, been out for a pre France road test and off out now to check the nuts now it's cooled down. Watch this space.

 

**edit** Checked them all and they were all fine, took them all off one at a time and checked the threads, no disfiguration or signs of "shavings".

[ioneabee]

I'm about to do a little "work" on mine - what setting should I put the torque on ?

 

I thought it was 105 N.m - but Graham appears to be doing it in imperial ??

[glrnet]

I've never checked before but it seems 80 ft lbs is right for 350z, at least 3 or 4 people I've spoken to over the years have said 100/110, 105 N.m is about 77 ft lbs, so which is correct, what settings do others use?

[glrnet]

I'm about to do a little "work" on mine - what setting should I put the torque on ?

 

I thought it was 105 N.m - but Graham appears to be doing it in imperial ??

I stand corrected, 80ft lbs is correct for the 350....goes out to readjust wheelnuts

[ChrisB]

Yup 108 Nm it says in the user manual. 80 ft lb in old money.

[Keyser]

Glad your sorted Mr G - didn't want to scare anyone - Just had Clowns Zed in with a nice set of Rays alloy wheel nuts on - took his front wheel off with no fuss or bother no breaker bars needed just "nicely" tight

 

No swarf in the threads and once they had half a turn loosening they came out (and went back on) with just the socket and my fingers.

 

I have seen some people doing up wheel nuts - you don't need to swing off a breaker bar - use a torque wrench and check them from time to time

 

EDIT: Check the wheel nut torque from the nut manufacture - Alloy and steel may be different as may different makes

Edited August 26, 2013 by Keyser

[glrnet]

Glad your sorted Mr G - didn't want to scare anyone - Just had Clowns Zed in with a nice set of Rays alloy wheel nuts on - took his front wheel off with no fuss or bother no breaker bars needed just "nicely" tight

 

No swarf in the threads and once they had half a turn loosening they came out (and went back on) with just the socket and my fingers.

 

I have seen some people doing up wheel nuts - you don't need to swing off a breaker bar - use a torque wrench and check them from time to time

 

EDIT: Check the wheel nut torque from the nut manufacture - Alloy and steel may be different as may different makes

Thanks mate, have sent emails to the wheel and nut manufacturers already. Not too worried now mine go on and come off with socket and fingers too

[glrnet]

Having now read these, I think there are too many doubts in my mind for them to stay on the car, steel ones going back on in the morning:-

 

http://www.epcivic.com/index.php?/topic/23776-d1-spec-lugnuts-warning/

http://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/how-tight-torque-aluminum-lug-nuts-889249/

[ChrisB]

If it's any help I have 4 out of 5 steels and 1 out of 5 aluminium locking nuts (Richbrook). I inflict the same standard 108 Nm torque on all nuts, as the force holding the wheel to the hub should be the important thing (not withstanding differences in material contact friction). I figured if there was a problem with the alloy nut longevity it would show up in a safe way, with the wheel retention protected by 4/5 steel.

 

Result is that I have never had a problem with the alloy nuts in 2 years of repeated wheels on/off for mods and winter. They do say in the alloy guidelines not to use an air wrench to put them on, ie they are easily destroyed by cross threading.

 

So I take it from that, that they are fine until they are not fine I can't definitively reference D1 nuts as I don't own them, but I imagine they are made from the same 'aircraft grade' alloy, and as such fit for purpose. Cheap copies would likely be a completely different kettle of fish though.

[glrnet]

Thanks for that Chris, I accept fully what you are saying but I'm about to do 2k+ miles to the south of France and back, I have the steel ones in the workshop and as there seems to be a plethora of 'fake' D1 spec's about and i can't be sure mine aren't genuine then it's a case of better safe than sorry.

[cs2000]

Thanks for that Chris, I accept fully what you are saying but I'm about to do 2k+ miles to the south of France and back, I have the steel ones in the workshop and as there seems to be a plethora of 'fake' D1 spec's about and i can't be sure mine aren't genuine then it's a case of better safe than sorry.

Probably a good idea, I've heard far too many horror stories about those D1 ali nuts falling off/getting stuck.

 

I always slightly over torque my OEM nuts to about 96 ft-lb, 80 seems like they're hardly even on.

[glrnet]

I've changed them all this morning, torqued to about 90, got a 70 odd mile drive later on and will re check them then.

[Keyser]

I've changed them all this morning, torqued to about 90, got a 70 odd mile drive later on and will re check them then.

 

Sorry Mr G

 

But as you say better safe than sorry

[WINKJ]

right... i'll be the second to order some new wheel nuts then!! what did you go for GLRNET? any suggestions/links/traders will be greatly received!

[glrnet]

right... i'll be the second to order some new wheel nuts then!! what did you go for GLRNET? any suggestions/links/traders will be greatly received!

I have Linea Corse wheels which I bought from Rare Rims, they sell steel splined nuts, give them a shout, they are very helpful

[glrnet]

I've changed them all this morning, torqued to about 90, got a 70 odd mile drive later on and will re check them then.

 

Sorry Mr G

 

But as you say better safe than sorry

No need to apologise matey, it prompted a good discussion and I'm happier now the steel ones are back on the car

[WINKJ]

right... i'll be the second to order some new wheel nuts then!! what did you go for GLRNET? any suggestions/links/traders will be greatly received!

I have Linea Corse wheels which I bought from Rare Rims, they sell steel splined nuts, give them a shout, they are very helpful

 

just ordered the Muteki nuts from Tarmac... hopefully I can sleep at night now... you just watch me break a d1 when trying to replace them haha