Basic Car Detailing "Guide"

[Ewan27]

This is an edited post to reflect some of the advise and product recommendations from other members:

 

Hi guys, someone asked me how I clean my car and what products I used so I wrote them a lengthy e-mail about it. I am only a beginner with detailing and I am aware I may not be using the products as per the manufacturer's instructions. This is just the method, and process that I follow. While feedback would be welcome, please don't barrage me with abuse cause I'm not using something correctly My new car is arriving in a couple of weeks, so will post picture of the finished product, although I don't have a Z anymore

 

First thing anyone serious about detailing will recommend is the two bucket method (2BM). Basically you have one bucket with hot water and wash concentrate, and a second "clean" bucket just filled with cold water. This is for rinsing your cleaning cloth/mitt each time, before you put it back into your hot bucket. So you would rinse your mitt in the cold, put your mitt in the hot, wash a panel, mitt back in the cold, rinse and repeat

 

The buckets for sale on "clean your car" are overpriced, any (clean) builders buckets would be suitable, think I got mine from a hardware store.

 

 

Snow Foam Lance - http://goo.gl/m6qELA

 

This fits onto your pressure washer handle. Fill it about a quarter way with the below. You can top the bottle up with water, but I tend to use it neat.

 

 

Valet Pro - Advanced Neutral Snow Foam - http://goo.gl/8hlDoh

 

This is the snow foam to put in your lancer, but also doubles up as a decent car shampoo (you hardly need to put any in your bucket)

 

 

Meguiars Lambswool Wash Mitt - http://goo.gl/FQ9JW6

 

 

First things to do is to pressure wash your car quickly with only water. Try and get up close on your number plates etc to remove bugs. Don't bother spending too much time on your alloys as we'll deal with those later, but get rid of the outer dirt. Next stage is to snow foam and leave it to settle for 10 minutes. Then pressure wash your car with water again, spending a little more time. Then fill your buckets (as above) and wash your car as normal, using the 2BM and the cleaning mitt. Pressure wash your car again to remove access soap and suds, take note of any areas with stubborn marks. I would then drive the car around the block a couple of times to remove excess water. Next stage is your alloys.

 

N.B. Make sure that the pressure washer head is kept as far as possible from the car (painted areas) and always sprayed at an angle, NEVER straight on as you'll damage the paintwork.

 

 

Bilberry Wheel Cleaner - http://goo.gl/3yIITD

 

 

Apply this with a soft brush into all the nooks of your alloy, rinse out your brush between each alloy. By the time you've done the 4th wheel, the 1st wheel will be ready to be pressure/hand washed. If you still have stubborn dirt then try a more abrasive brush and leave some neat cleaner on for longer.

 

 

Now you need to dry the car completely. I'd always recommend using microfibre cloths instead of standard towers, this one is good for drying, but you might need a couple - Dodo Plush Drying Towel - http://goo.gl/nOEssU

 

 

Meguiars - Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe - http://goo.gl/yEv52t

 

 

The next stage depends on the condition of the car after this initial clean.

1) If the car looks good, without any ingrained dirt stains then you all you need to do it spray the detailer lightly, all over the car then buff it off with:

 

 

Ultimate Ultra-Plush Buffing Cloth Pkg/3 - http://goo.gl/dRNXW8

 

 

You don't need to leave the detailer on for very long, by the time you've sprayed the whole car, you can start taking it off from the place you started.

 

 

2) If the car still has ingrained dirt on it or you want to do a complete clean then you can use a clay bar. There are instructions with it, but basically you mould the clay into the palm of your hand, spray detailer onto an area and work the bar until you feel an ever-so-slight resistance. You'll be surprised how much dirt it picks up. This does take a while to do! You don't have to do the whole car; you could just focus on particularly dirty sections.

 

 

Bilt Hamber - Auto Clay Regular - http://goo.gl/GAkr6e

 

 

Once all the detailer is off, the next stage is a wax. I've used various "quick" or "aqua" waxes but they tend to take almost as long as a "proper" wax does and don't give as good a finish. The wax I'd recommend is this:

 

 

Autoglym - High Definition wax - http://goo.gl/6LELg6

 

 

While it is expensive, it lasts a long time as you hardly need to use any to get a great finish. Again there are instructions (and applicator pads) included, but you basically cover the car in a thin layer of wax, leave it for 10 minutes, then buff it off.

 

 

I really don't think you'll need to polish your car, the finish the wax gives is very good. If you get into this then I can recommend polishes and "finishing products", but 90% of the time I use the method above (finishing with the HD wax). You can never have enough microfibre & buffing cloths so you should buy a pack of smaller ones. I think I got a pack of cheaper ones from ebay as there's not much difference between them. Once you've done a "full" clean, then you can quickly clean the car by using a rinse, snow foam and hand wash once a week. You probably only need to do the entire process every 5-6 weeks in the summer, and every 3-4 in the winter

Edited July 26, 2013 by Ewan27

[Dave-350]

Not bad, but some of products I would definitively change. But its all personal preference.

 

I would definitely change the HyperWash for Valet Pro and I would definitely change the Clay Bar for a Bilt Hamber bar. These products just give mind boggling results!

 

I used these before a paint correction here:

 

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/71964-report-scholl-s17-paint-correction/

Edited July 25, 2013 by Dave-350

[Ewan27]

Not bad, but some of products I would definitively change. But its all personal preference.

 

I would definitely change the HyperWash for Valet Pro and I would definitely change the Clay Bar for a Bilt Hamber bar. These products just give mind boggling results!

 

I used these before a paint correction here:

 

http://www.350z-uk.c...int-correction/

 

I've just got placed a large order, but once my supplies have run out I'll definitely try the products you recommended, thanks a lot! Interesting thread, I've never had the cojones to use a machine polisher, but it might very well be my next investment! I think I just need to watch someone use one, or be shown how to and then I'd be ok! Anyway, thanks for your recommendations

[Ekona]

Good start, well written

 

 

No need for snow foaming at all though, 2BM is more than enough. Also you need to mention that when using a jetter, you must make sure that the head is kept as far as possible from the car and always sprayed at an angle, NEVER straight on as you'll damage the paintwork. Personally I don't use a jetter at all, again a quick once over with a hose and gun attachment will get rid of the initial layer of dirt/dust.

 

Also, with regards to claying I'd mention that you need LOTS of quick detailer. Most people don't use enough (I certainly didn't before I was shown how), and that can marr the paint if you're not careful.

 

I too would change the products, but to be honest that's opinion and budget and certainly what you've selected is great for a beginner which is exactly who the article is aimed at.

 

 

For a beginner, that's a great start. Good work sir, and just wait until a couple of years down the line when it becomes an addiction!

[Dave-350]

Good start, well written

 

 

No need for snow foaming at all though, 2BM is more than enough. Also you need to mention that when using a jetter, you must make sure that the head is kept as far as possible from the car and always sprayed at an angle, NEVER straight on as you'll damage the paintwork. Personally I don't use a jetter at all, again a quick once over with a hose and gun attachment will get rid of the initial layer of dirt/dust.

 

Also, with regards to claying I'd mention that you need LOTS of quick detailer. Most people don't use enough (I certainly didn't before I was shown how), and that can marr the paint if you're not careful.

 

I too would change the products, but to be honest that's opinion and budget and certainly what you've selected is great for a beginner which is exactly who the article is aimed at.

 

 

For a beginner, that's a great start. Good work sir, and just wait until a couple of years down the line when it becomes an addiction!

 

Now without acting like a know-it-all (I'm not btw) it would be very hard for you to get marring with most soft clay bars unless you used no lube at all, the Bilt Hamber bar is virtually noob safe and you wont get marring with that. And also, I find that there is a point when using too much lube doesn't give the bar enough contact to do its job, I tend to spray the area and work the bar until you feel an ever-so-slight resistance, then I know I am good.

 

I also don't use 2 buckets, or any buckets at all but again that is personal preference. I tend to spray the car down, apply cleaning agents with the Karcher lance then use the Mitt to wash it, I then use the Pro Valet with foam lance and leave it for 5 minutes - The results are fantastic.

 

I then either dry it with a extra large drying towel, or if I am being anal use a blow dryer. (No, not a hair dryer)

 

as long as its clean though who cares right?

 

And also to the OP, get a rotary rather than a DA. Don't let anyone tell you a DA is a safe option because they can do just us much damage as a Rotary. And if you did damage your paint using a rotary then you really really are doing it wrong because even if you tried to burn your paint using a Rotary, it would take a good minute of constant pressure on the paint at full speed.

 

Unless you had it at an extreme angle on full speed.

Edited July 25, 2013 by Dave-350

[Stutopia]

Good place to start this, good effort as loads of people ask (myself included).

 

I know products are very personal, but in terms of pure drying power I found the Megs drying MF ok, but I've fallen head over heals for this Dodo take on it.

 

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/dodo-juice/orange-plush-microfibre-drying-towel.aspx

[Dave-350]

Good place to start this, good effort as loads of people ask (myself included).

 

I know products are very personal, but in terms of pure drying power I found the Megs drying MF ok, but I've fallen head over heals for this Dodo take on it.

 

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/dodo-juice/orange-plush-microfibre-drying-towel.aspx

 

CleanYourCar do a HUGE towel that is great as well!

 

Also, I found that if you get your towels Dry Cleaned after use they absorb more when Drying Now that is Anal!

[Stutopia]

It's is what happens if you don't use two bucket method.

 

http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/businesswomans-80k-bentley-wrecked-cheetham-5289436

[Dave-350]

Haha - Or using a Rotary!

[Ewan27]

No need for snow foaming at all though, 2BM is more than enough. Also you need to mention that when using a jetter, you must make sure that the head is kept as far as possible from the car and always sprayed at an angle, NEVER straight on as you'll damage the paintwork. Personally I don't use a jetter at all, again a quick once over with a hose and gun attachment will get rid of the initial layer of dirt/dust.

 

For a beginner, that's a great start. Good work sir, and just wait until a couple of years down the line when it becomes an addiction!

 

Thanks!

 

It's quite daunting when you first start, like moving from your mums mop bucket and sponge from under the sink to a shelf full of products! Snow foaming is the fun part though Will take note of your warnings re paint damage.

 

I also don't use 2 buckets, or any buckets at all but again that is personal preference. I tend to spray the car down, apply cleaning agents with the Karcher lance then use the Mitt to wash it, I then use the Pro Valet with foam lance and leave it for 5 minutes - The results are fantastic.

 

 

How do you rinse your mitt between sections/panels without a bucket?

 

Good place to start this, good effort as loads of people ask (myself included).

 

I know products are very personal, but in terms of pure drying power I found the Megs drying MF ok, but I've fallen head over heals for this Dodo take on it.

 

http://www.theultima...ying-towel.aspx

 

Cheers for the heads up!

Edited July 25, 2013 by Ewan27

[Dave-350]

No need for snow foaming at all though, 2BM is more than enough. Also you need to mention that when using a jetter, you must make sure that the head is kept as far as possible from the car and always sprayed at an angle, NEVER straight on as you'll damage the paintwork. Personally I don't use a jetter at all, again a quick once over with a hose and gun attachment will get rid of the initial layer of dirt/dust.

 

For a beginner, that's a great start. Good work sir, and just wait until a couple of years down the line when it becomes an addiction!

 

Thanks!

 

It's quite daunting when you first start, like moving from your mums mop bucket and sponge from under the sink to a shelf full of products! Snow foaming is the fun part though Will take note of your warnings re paint damage.

 

I also don't use 2 buckets, or any buckets at all but again that is personal preference. I tend to spray the car down, apply cleaning agents with the Karcher lance then use the Mitt to wash it, I then use the Pro Valet with foam lance and leave it for 5 minutes - The results are fantastic.

 

 

How do you rinse your mitt between sections/panels without a bucket?

 

Good place to start this, good effort as loads of people ask (myself included).

 

I know products are very personal, but in terms of pure drying power I found the Megs drying MF ok, but I've fallen head over heals for this Dodo take on it.

 

http://www.theultima...ying-towel.aspx

 

Cheers for the heads up!

 

To be fair, unless my car is terribly covered in @*!# I don't need to rinse the Mitt. My paint is pretty much contaminate free and it rarely gets much dirt on it!

 

If it was very dirty though I would then use a bucket to rinse the Mitt with.

[coldel]

Good write up. I spend A LOT of time looking after my car and I think anyone buying a nice car for the first time would do well to read through this. Too many would grab that old sponge under the sink with some washing up liquid and go to town.

 

I think a polish can be a good idea if you want to bring up the colour a bit (whether it does or if its a placebo effect I'm not sure but I do it anyway) but also the polish is a good thing if you have a DA as it will get rid of those spider web scratches you see when you look at the suns reflection on the paintwork. Obviously dont just grab a DA and have a go, make sure you know what you are doing!

 

I'm with Dan on this issue of the jet washer, I don't use a jet washer at all. I would only use it to generate the snow foam but would not use it on the bodywork as it would as far as I can see strip any wax you have applied. And I would certainly not recommend using it on alloy wheels in any shape or form, maybe I am a bit nervy of that as the wheels I had on my Zed were pretty darn expensive.

 

But yeah, I go through the wash/clay/polish/wax routine every 3 months, between that its just a case of giving it a good wash (depending on usage and weather conditions etc) once a week and allowing the wax to do its stuff.

[coldel]

Oh and if anyone is ordering off Ultimate Finish use 'HEAT75' as a discount code and you get 7.5% off and if you spend £50 or more I think you get a free pot of Dodo Juice Hybrid Wax

[Ewan27]

Thanks for all your replies. I've re-written the post to reflect the advise on here and replaced some of the products. I'll wait to see if anyone else has any insights, then I'll edit the original post. That way it'll be easier to read for anyone who is linked to it.

[coldel]

Always good to generate a debate though Ewan, fair play to you for putting up a really good detailed 'beginners guide' post. New products come out all the time and new techniques arrive with them, no harm in refreshing everyone

 

I wonder how many people spend as much time on the interior as they do on the outside...

[Ewan27]

Always good to generate a debate though Ewan, fair play to you for putting up a really good detailed 'beginners guide' post. New products come out all the time and new techniques arrive with them, no harm in refreshing everyone

 

I wonder how many people spend as much time on the interior as they do on the outside...

 

Well I was worried I was going to get abused for not doing things correctly, but the feedback has all been constructive. When I first started looking into it, all the information and advise was overwhelming to be honest. I think something similar to my original (after edits) is a decent place to grasp the basics, then you can build from there. The initial move from a sponge and fairy liquid to a microfibre and car shampoo is hardest step, after that it's an expensive, slippery slope to obsession! Here is my rather tame shelf

 

[coldel]

Like it. In our previous house I filled the entire under-stairs cupboard space with cleaning stuff. From leather restorer through to piles of microfibres! I recently bought a stack of these, amazing at buffing off the wax http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/dodo-juice/fantastic-fur-microfibre-buffing-cloth.aspx

[Ekona]

Now without acting like a know-it-all (I'm not btw) it would be very hard for you to get marring with most soft clay bars unless you used no lube at all, the Bilt Hamber bar is virtually noob safe and you wont get marring with that. And also, I find that there is a point when using too much lube doesn't give the bar enough contact to do its job, I tend to spray the area and work the bar until you feel an ever-so-slight resistance, then I know I am good.

 

I also don't use 2 buckets, or any buckets at all but again that is personal preference. I tend to spray the car down, apply cleaning agents with the Karcher lance then use the Mitt to wash it, I then use the Pro Valet with foam lance and leave it for 5 minutes - The results are fantastic.

I tend to agree with the clay and lube thing, but when the professionals tell you to use about 10x more than you were using it's hard to argue the case! That was the guys at Megs, and now using their method I can see why they were right. It's all subjective, if you're already using 10+ squirts of the QD on a section then you're doing it right. I only ever used to use a couple of squirts, which wasn't enough.

 

With regards to not using the 2BM, by doing it your way you're creating swirls in your paint, I can promise that. If you don't rinse the cleaning mitt, then where does the dirt go you're wiping off? It will stay on the mitt, and the further you go round the vehicle the more damage you'll cause.

 

Unless of course you're washing the car daily and it never sees the outside, then your paint will be contaminate free Even after one drive to and from work (so 30 mile-ish) I wouldn't use QD to wash the car with, which is a good guide as to whether it needs a proper wash or not. If you can wipe your finger over the car and leave a dust mark, then you can easily scratch it.

 

 

Not teaching you to suck eggs or anything matey, you know your paint better than me, but the theory holds true regardless.

[Dave-350]

Now without acting like a know-it-all (I'm not btw) it would be very hard for you to get marring with most soft clay bars unless you used no lube at all, the Bilt Hamber bar is virtually noob safe and you wont get marring with that. And also, I find that there is a point when using too much lube doesn't give the bar enough contact to do its job, I tend to spray the area and work the bar until you feel an ever-so-slight resistance, then I know I am good.

 

I also don't use 2 buckets, or any buckets at all but again that is personal preference. I tend to spray the car down, apply cleaning agents with the Karcher lance then use the Mitt to wash it, I then use the Pro Valet with foam lance and leave it for 5 minutes - The results are fantastic.

I tend to agree with the clay and lube thing, but when the professionals tell you to use about 10x more than you were using it's hard to argue the case! That was the guys at Megs, and now using their method I can see why they were right. It's all subjective, if you're already using 10+ squirts of the QD on a section then you're doing it right. I only ever used to use a couple of squirts, which wasn't enough.

 

With regards to not using the 2BM, by doing it your way you're creating swirls in your paint, I can promise that. If you don't rinse the cleaning mitt, then where does the dirt go you're wiping off? It will stay on the mitt, and the further you go round the vehicle the more damage you'll cause.

 

Unless of course you're washing the car daily and it never sees the outside, then your paint will be contaminate free Even after one drive to and from work (so 30 mile-ish) I wouldn't use QD to wash the car with, which is a good guide as to whether it needs a proper wash or not. If you can wipe your finger over the car and leave a dust mark, then you can easily scratch it.

 

 

Not teaching you to suck eggs or anything matey, you know your paint better than me, but the theory holds true regardless.

 

Yea I agree with everything, I think its because I work from home and my car rarely see's dirt lol! After my paint correction its still swirl free, apart from the car park accident i had a few weeks ago

[Stutopia]

Always good to generate a debate though Ewan, fair play to you for putting up a really good detailed 'beginners guide' post. New products come out all the time and new techniques arrive with them, no harm in refreshing everyone

 

I wonder how many people spend as much time on the interior as they do on the outside...

 

Well I was worried I was going to get abused for not doing things correctly, but the feedback has all been constructive. When I first started looking into it, all the information and advise was overwhelming to be honest. I think something similar to my original (after edits) is a decent place to grasp the basics, then you can build from there. The initial move from a sponge and fairy liquid to a microfibre and car shampoo is hardest step, after that it's an expensive, slippery slope to obsession! Here is my rather tame shelf

 

 

How do you rate the Megs Gold Class shampoo? I started with that but have tried a few others since as it didn't get me all into a lather.

[Dave-350]

Always good to generate a debate though Ewan, fair play to you for putting up a really good detailed 'beginners guide' post. New products come out all the time and new techniques arrive with them, no harm in refreshing everyone

 

I wonder how many people spend as much time on the interior as they do on the outside...

 

Well I was worried I was going to get abused for not doing things correctly, but the feedback has all been constructive. When I first started looking into it, all the information and advise was overwhelming to be honest. I think something similar to my original (after edits) is a decent place to grasp the basics, then you can build from there. The initial move from a sponge and fairy liquid to a microfibre and car shampoo is hardest step, after that it's an expensive, slippery slope to obsession! Here is my rather tame shelf

 

 

How do you rate the Megs Gold Class shampoo? I started with that but have tried a few others since as it didn't get me all into a lather.

 

I dont rate it at all, compared to the NXT or newer lime one they do! That's what I'm using ATM.

[coldel]

Bubbles and lather are not a sign of a good car shampoo

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[Ewan27]

 

How do you rate the Megs Gold Class shampoo? I started with that but have tried a few others since as it didn't get me all into a lather.

 

I tried a sample and it seemed OK, only just bought that big bottle. To be honest, as I clean weekly and use the snow foam, it's never usually all that dirty when I get to the hand wash. Not sure I'd really noticed the difference.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

[Ekona]

I used to use Gold Class, and would do so again if I'd run out and needed something from Halfrauds to wash with. There's other stuff I prefer (DJ BTM, for example, or CG MaxiSudsII), but GC is better than some.

Edited July 25, 2013 by Ekona

[Stutopia]

Bubbles and lather are not a sign of a good car shampoo

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

'twas only a pun