Flex Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Guys, this is miffing me right off now, does anyone know exactly which connection is the culprit and is there a more sturdy connector that could be used? Had the seat out, pushed all connectors together and bound them up then reset light but back on after a week. Is this an Alex call or is there a solution without bothering him with such, what should be in my eyes a simple fix? BW, Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 maybe try an ecu reset? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Thanks but it's almost certainly a connector issue. Unless an ECU reset has worked for others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 ECU reset will only work if the fault is past and not current. It is cause by a design fault (the terminals inside are not tight enough so the resistance goes up and ECU register an open circuit). The cheapest (and the bullet-proof) solution is to cut the connectors out of the circuit and just soldering the wires together (make sure wires are not swapped), but you will need to cut/re-solder them if you need to remove the seats for any reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) ECU reset will only work if the fault is past and not current. It is cause by a design fault (the terminals inside are not tight enough so the resistance goes up and ECU register an open circuit). The cheapest (and the bullet-proof) solution is to cut the connectors out of the circuit and just soldering the wires together (make sure wires are not swapped), but you will need to cut/re-solder them if you need to remove the seats for any reason. +1 Just did that to my mates Rover MG. His failed the MOT as its now a requirement and his missus works the seat back and forth all the time. Soldering was the only think that kept the light off for more than a week. Edited June 18, 2013 by flyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Has anyone tried bullet connectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 nope and ive got a shed full Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Oh mate, sorry Can't imagine resistance would be an issue, that was the only reason i asked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Yup only set fire to the carpet twice though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 pmsl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) So does anyone know which connector it is if I gets me solder iron out? Edited June 19, 2013 by flexib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 The yellow plugs under the seat - only yellow one there big yellow one in the middle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 I owe you one, again As ever, you are a true hero, just like shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 With hindsight I would seriously try bullet connectors first before soldering, much less risk of setting the car on fire, and must be easier than soldering whilst lying on your back upside down hanging out a passenger door 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Might try them bullets as I'd probably drip solder everywhere but I don't think it'll be too bad as seats are a piece of p1ss to take out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 So I have some bullet connectors going to try and solve this this weekend. They're 15amp, anyone think that'll be an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timb2010 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) Have you done this yet? If not maybe hold fire mate ive bought a z with the drivers seat airbag deployed and the plugs have been cut out and wires soldered direct. Ive got some new seats to go in and also some replacement yellow plugs/sockets to add back in. If you look into the end of the yellow plug there looks to be something possibly a resistor between the two sides/wires. Ive measured between the two terminals with a continuity tester/meter and there is DEFINETLY something joining them up. (See photo) as the meter bleeps to show they are joined. Good luck Edited August 10, 2013 by timb2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Not done it yet does this mean I should proceed with caution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timb2010 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) I wouldn't do it mate. Ive just spent the weekend refitting the yellow plugs. The garage I bought it from tried to resolve the SRS lights by cutting out the plugs. He had cut out both the yellow plugs off and had soldered wire to wire on just the drivers side. The passenger side was just left with cut wires. The drivers airbag deployed on him for whatever reason. whether this was caused as he removed the built in resistor in the seat end of the connector plug (as above) or whether he was testing his work scoping it with a multi-meter or even the heat of him soldering that ignited the fuse! I would suggest unplugging the airbag connector on the car/loom end, then using a very small precision screwdriver pull up the little white tab on the side of the plug. It clicks out about 3mm. Then the wires and end connectors can be pulled from the plug. The connectors on the seat side of the plug have a pin that pushes into the middle of these connectors. If you then look at the connectors on the end of the wire and push/bend the middle section down a little bit so that the pins on the seat connector have to push slightly harder to get in and are now a tighter fit. I only know this as I had to pull out and rewire/solder every single pin on both seat and car connectors and looked how they pushed together to make contact. See attached Good luck!! Edited August 12, 2013 by timb2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Wow, thank you, that could have been an expensive job for me! Great reply, thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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