Arran Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Evening all Got my HSD DT on today with Eibach spacers,, however I need to re adjust them again to make the front about 10mm lower, just want to find out how you boys have adjusted them. The adjustment is nothing like I've seen on others so just want to check I've done it correct. We twisted the shock body to do tha height but couldn't quite work out how and where the spring preload adjustment should be sitting in relation to the length of the shock, same with the rear as they are inboard rear springs which the height is adjusted by the spring collar that's fine and where I want it but can't work out why there's adjustment in the shock to go up and down when the height is done by the spring. Going to adjust the damping aswell two clicks softer front and rear just a little to bouncy on rippled roads but so far with these on so good, the ride and handling is much better than standard So how have you guys done yours? Cheers Arran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Did you not buy funny rears Arran? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteman35 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Think I misread your post, if you have a separate shock and spring on the rear, when you lower the spring using the collar, lower the shock the same amount to keep the same amount of travel Edited May 12, 2013 by peteman35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 You are ment to do 100 miles before stiffening them up to run them in but as you said it is very bouncy to start with so drive carefull. With the rear as has been said when you lower the spring ten mm lower the shock the same, and the spring preload the locking collars should just hold the spring so it doesn't move but you can lower the spring if you don't like how bouncy it is, however I would leave it for now and after 100 miles start playing with the stiffness as this will make a huge difference. On mine I have done as above and I am on click 9 out of 16 and I am very happy with the set up I was going up 3 clicks at a time until I was happy hope this has helped and enjoy the best mod you can do to the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 I'm going to be re doing it in a week or so, I'm not using the car this week so will let it sit. The springs on the rear are only lowered 7 threads down which is perfect for me but I think the shock may be out of sync, what I plan to do is take it all off, take the cups out of the bottom of the shocks, measure 25mm then screw the cup up to that then adjust from there, so I'm assuming once its at that 25mm length the shock will be at its lowest point? I'm pretty sure we moved the front spring preload a tad aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 No if you screw the bottom cup up 25mm the sock is safe as its screwed in enough but the shock is really at its longest/ heighest if you screwed the cup on as much as it would go then the shock would be the lowest it could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 I must need to screw the front shocks down another 10mm then and leave the preload for the spring alone, that's easy enough. Going to set the front to softest today aswell but the rear will be a pain as there's no hole big enough to get the Allen key down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeh the rears are a pain in the arse I left the rear strut covers off for a few months whilst I was setting the stiffness up actualy they were off for over a year lol, anyway the best thing to use are Allen keys with the kind of ball ends on them that's how I did mine I got a set in halfords for around £10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Right managed to adjust all the damping to softest, found a long Allen key for the rear. Went for a drive round the block, suprised how much the damping changes! It rides so lovely on full soft! Still think the top of the nsr shock is slightly loose as there's a knocking noise I believe, will check it all next time it's on ramp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Good in my instruction for my hsd's they recommend 100 miles on the softest setting after that I turned mine up three settings at a time untill I got to setting nine and that's hard enough for me. Please just take it easy tho as on the softest setting they are actually quite dangerous, I fitted some hsd's for a mate and he didn't listen to me and he had a crash the next day. If you need any more info on them give us a shout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 I'm not driving it this week as I'm away but as soon as I'm back I plan to get it on the ramp, take it all off, reset the shock heights and find out the stock settings for the front spring preload and put them back to standard (unless you know the measurements on stock Pete?) then get it all back fitted and leave it 100 miles then get an allignment done. You reckon on soft the handlings no good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 To set up the front spring its simple mate the top locking collor just make sure it is holding the spring in place but don't tighten it up a lot or you will compress the spring you just want it to stop the spring slapping about. And handling on the softest setting is very bouncy I found the car just did not feel very steady however its only for the first 100 miles then when you stiffen it up you will notice it feeling much better still by far the best mod I have done to any of my cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Oh also forgot to say the second locking collor should be used under the first one and locked together to stop the spring being able to move. sorry if this sounds stupid or you already know this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeah the spring locking is easy to do bit wondered what length the spring should be at as the instructions say don't touch the preload but we already have just want to know what the stock setting for the preload is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Just release the two locking collars for the spring so it can slap up and down and measure it that will give you your standard spring height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I must need to screw the front shocks down another 10mm then and leave the preload for the spring alone, that's easy enough. Going to set the front to softest today aswell but the rear will be a pain as there's no hole big enough to get the Allen key down Guys you can get extensions like Jordan and Octet have got. Its a 3mm Hex and they are £25. They are the meister ones but they will fit. Aparantly the guy is on this forum. I am waiting for Octet to resend the website address to me. In the mean time I used a keyhole saw to make a 1.5 inch hole ready to take them. Then a small hole in the trim and put it all back together again. Because they are springy you dont have to worry about them hitting the tailgate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I must need to screw the front shocks down another 10mm then and leave the preload for the spring alone, that's easy enough. Going to set the front to softest today aswell but the rear will be a pain as there's no hole big enough to get the Allen key down Guys you can get extensions like Jordan and Octet have got. Its a 3mm Hex and they are £25. They are the meister ones but they will fit. Aparantly the guy is on this forum. I am waiting for Octet to resend the website address to me. In the mean time I used a keyhole saw to make a 1.5 inch hole ready to take them. Then a small hole in the trim and put it all back together again. Because they are springy you dont have to worry about them hitting the tailgate. I can assist with fitting but dont have the hole saw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 I plan on cutting a larger hole on the rear yeah but won't need extended adjusters as a long Allen key easily fits down there, so the front spring il loosen until it slack then just tighten up and lock in, sounds good! Hopefully can get it sorted quickly and easily the second time round, strange way of adjusting though I must say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Right doing it tomorrow, found out we didn't touch the front spring preload after all so that's one less thing to worry about Think I've got it correct in method now, the front I'm going to measure what the thread is now as I need to make it ten mm lower, take out the cups at the bottom measure 25mm plus whatever the shock is wound in to get the height it is now, for now let's say another 25mm down so that's 50mm down the shock, basically il measure 60mm and lock it on that and that should be the front done and dusted? For the rear, leave the springs as they are, which is 7 threads down (say 7mm for now) then take shock off and measure 25mm from bottom then basically screw another 7mm down so 32mm down the shocks and I should be level spring and shock right? Hope that's correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 I have a different set up at the back as I have true coil overs so can't really comment on the rears, however the fronts you can measure from the bottom locking collar to the next one for example say its 40mm you can then release the bottom locking collar and twist the top of the shock clockwise this will then shorten the shock keep measuring until the distance is then 30mm in between locking collars then you will have lowered the front by 10mm. If this is hard to understand pm me and il give you my phone number to talk you through it. Buy doing it this way it saves a lot of time by not removing the shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Just for off the phone from driftworks, just aswell as the rear would be set up wrong. I need to raise the spring seat back to maximum height and lower the shock enough so that the rear spring is captive and not able to move, once done lower the spring to my height in my case 7 threads and lower the shock again so that the spring is captive. Sounds easy enough to me. The front is as I thought, as I need to take the fronts off anyway just to triple check the spring preloads weren't touched, measure the bottom spring collar and bottom shock collars as they are now then lower them another 10mm, check they are at the height I want, lock it all up and voila done. I always other think things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj1 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Hi, recently got a 350z HR with dual tech on her. It’s been slammed with no camber arms. I got some c spanner but they seem to be for BC coilovers and don’t catch the rings properly. I got 3 questions: are the Cspanners from hsd the same size to adjust front and rear? As the ring under the rear coils seems way bigger. Also, what’s the max lowering in these without needing camber adjustment? Is there a way to adjust camber in stock arms on 350z without having to buy new arms? I’ll get some eventually but got the car a few weeks back and got to prioritise... (rear tyres, clutch and smf, brake pads, braided brake and clutch lines) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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