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Dirty stinking bass, Under Strut Box Complete


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Lol, nearly done!!

 

Got the templating done, and the box sized up and built. Just need to unscrew it all, add glue, then screw back and completely seal up. The box at the moment is held on with minimal screws so I could keep test fitting to the car. Fits very snugly!

 

I don't plan on carpeting it, gonna try matte black spraypaint first, and if it really looks crap then I'll carpet it.

 

 

Templating:

 

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Template done.

 

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Bought a coupla workbenches from Maplin for £10 each! Definitely needed these!

 

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Most parts for the box fit on one 18 x 606 x 1220mm MDF board (Wickes). Two of these boards or equivalent will be needed for a full box. I bought 4 because I overestimated the amount I'd need, but also because I wanted to make a new MDF floor for the boot. I trashed my existing boot floor when installing the amps.

 

 

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So tomorrow I'll test fit this again to the car, just to see if I need to shave any edges off. Then I'll cut the hole for the sub, and finalise the entire box!

 

Didn't use the glue gun idea as I couldn't find my heatgun, and it would have gotten very messy! Screws without glue did the job well for now. But chamfering the edges was ridiculously difficult with a jigsaw. Was too lazy to dig the table saw out from under a pile of toolboxes!

 

Quite pleased with the nearly finished result though..

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^^ Getting there zubairhussain123. ;)

 

Have you thought about where the wires are going to go in?

 

Would be a good idea to have some sort of cable dis-connector plug imo so if you want to take the box/sub out for more space it will be easy to do. Can't remember what there called but basically it's a plug that all your wires for the Sub go into and it just pulls apart for when you need to dis-connect the wires quickly. Hope that makes sense to you. :thumbs:

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Yeah best entry for wires is through the right hand side (when ur looking at the strut from the boot hatch), as I've got a fair bit of space there. Will probably use a binding post or a distributor block.

 

If I'm lazy I may just thread the wires through a hole and glue it back up.

 

 

binding post: would be nice to use one of these. will probably thread the wires through a hole for now, and order one of these from ebay.

RGT-4000.jpg

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Once i've glued and screwed the box, I know I'm going to have a few tiny air gaps where the panels just aren't sitting flat against each other (blame the jigsaw!). I plan to sweep up all the sawdust I've left in the shed, and mix into paste with PVA (without watering down much) and use this to fill and smooth all gaps.

 

I know this to be quite decent when woodworking, but never tried with an audio install...any thoughts as to whether this should suffice, or whether there'd be anything better to use?

 

I was put off using silicone sealer again, as the last install i did using silicone stank the car out for days

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I had two 15s in my old car and love the sound of 15s I'm currently trying to find a way of squeezing one or even two into the boot without loosing all the usable room in there lol

 

You could fit a 15, but you'd have to lose the spare tyre, boot floor, and get a custom box built. Either for the floorpan, or under the strut bar. Will be very difficult without losing some space. Under strut is best, or build a false floor with the sub underneath

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