jell36 Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hoping someone can help. If I take my Z out for a drive, once the engine gets hot and I have been running at medium or above rpms, I can hear what sounds like water boiling when I come to a stop, I will keep hearing the noise for a minute or so and then it will stop until I rev the enigne again. Is this normal? Anyone got any ideas as to what it could be? I have tried bleeding the cooling system a few times, thinking it might have been air in the system, but it doesn't seem to imporve. Also coolant colour and oil colour look fine, no bubbles in the coolant overflow tank and so no thinking head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 How did you try to bleed the system? Did you used a vacuum bleeder? Sometimes the air can be trapped in the heater matrix causing that type of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 The coolant has been in for around a year (genuine nissan coolant from alex). 3 times I have put a funnel in the radiator neck and top off the fluid, and then ran the engine several times to clear any air, running like this for about an hour. It looks like there is no air in the coolant. Under the bleed screw is just coolant, no air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 (edited) You still got a chance to be some air trapped in. It happened to me before the only way to get the air out was using the vacuum bleeder, if you are close to my garage I can do it for you. If not try to find a decent garage locally have this equipment. (Of course it's can be something else, but really sounds like air in the heater matrix.) Also have you got this noise every time ? Did you run the A/C when it's do the noise ? Edited March 30, 2013 by KaizerMotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Kaizer, yeah I can hear the noise everytime and it is when the air con is turned off (I've not tried to listen for the noise when the air con is turned on). You're a little far from me as I'm in Nottingham. So do I just need to ask a gargae to vacuum bleed my cooling system? How long of a job do you think it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 With a good bleeder (and a technician who can use it ) it would only take 20 min. Let us know if this doesn't sort your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 This might also help: Fill & Bleed as follows- Fill radiator & Reservoir 1. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator cap installed. 2 . Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed. Repeat two or three times. 3 .Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50C (122F). Cool down using a fan to reduce the time. 4. If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with coolant. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with coolant. Repeat 1 to 4 two or more times with radiator cap installed until coolant level no longer drops. 5. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running. Warm up engine, and check for sound of coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM. Sound may be noticeable at heater unit. Repeat step 5 three times. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 1 through 4 until coolant level no longer drops. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Thanks Kaizer, I'll ring round and try to find a garage that can do it. Alex, I've tried that several times, I've been driving it for a year and the coolant level is always full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 This might also help: Fill & Bleed as follows- Fill radiator & Reservoir 1. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator cap installed. 2 . Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed. Repeat two or three times. 3 .Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50C (122F). Cool down using a fan to reduce the time. 4. If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with coolant. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with coolant. Repeat 1 to 4 two or more times with radiator cap installed until coolant level no longer drops. 5. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running. Warm up engine, and check for sound of coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM. Sound may be noticeable at heater unit. Repeat step 5 three times. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 1 through 4 until coolant level no longer drops. Alex. Aha I found what i was looking for thanks Zmanalex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok i got some new symtoms its still overheating but after a good while.. when im on idle and reving to 3000rpm ther is no water sloshing/bubbling but when i rev to 4500rpm i can hear it again.. what does this mean? My heaters appear to be fine im getting heat in the cabin now. Does this mean the radiator weld stuff maybe blocking my heater matrix or blocking somewhere? Should I just do a fool flush and start again? Thanks Saskhi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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