CavemaN1010 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Hi i have a 2005 jap import with brembo (gold if that makes a diff) callipers and i want to know how hard it is to change the lot fronts and back, just wondering if its a simple enough job to do thanks Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 easy mate, where you based? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I managed to do mine myself, relatively straight forward. I remember the caliper bolts being quite tight though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothers2901 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/32134-changing-front-brake-pads-on-brembo/page__hl__%2Bbrake+%2Bpads Here you go. There is always something in the guides 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 ah, just re read the title, the pads are easy, havent done the discs as yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CavemaN1010 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 im in christchurch at the mo moving to hastings in the next week mine have worn low and tcs lights keep coming on, how did you get the callipers back i used to use a g clamp to squeeze them out but admittedly that was on old cars years ago (getting pi**ed off with paying thru the nose for jobs i could do just cos im too lazy to try) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CavemaN1010 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 http://www.350z-uk.c...l__+brake +pads Here you go. There is always something in the guides thank you just what i needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 http://www.350z-uk.c...l__+brake +pads Here you go. There is always something in the guides As above, That's the very guide I followed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 yes an idiot can do it. I did mine:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveM Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Got mine to do this year...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Caliper bolts can be an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhackyWill Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 An Idiot and brakes dont mix.... :scare: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 An Idiot and brakes dont mix.... :scare: What you trying to say Whacko? I bet you that if you stood in front of me I could stop in time b4 making you all squishy! Could I said ha ha ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 pretty straight forward try and torque things up properly or you may sheer the pin bolt like i did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgedon Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Rough step by step: Jack car up Wheel off Caliper bolts removed Curse, swear and have a strop about how difficult they are to get off Eventually get the bolts off Caliper to one side with brake line still attached (might want something to prop this up on) Remove bolt that holds brake disc onto hub Change disc Remove pads from caliper Replace pads in caliper Some form of clamp or caliper retractor tool (can be got from Halfords or car parts shop) Caliper back over disc Replace bolts Make sure everything's secure and done up tight Wheel back on Car down Bed the new pads and discs in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bounty Bar Kid Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Some form of clamp or caliper retractor tool (can be got from Halfords or car parts shop) Just use your fingers. I did. Easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supratad Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 (edited) I've just finished this job over the weekend, but I forgot the rear caliper bolts have a lower torque setting than the fronts, so I tried to get 152Nm on all 4 rear bolts. I couldn't pull hard enough to get the torque wrench to click at 152, so I reckon I've put about 120Nm onto them, which is way too much. Does anyone sell the bolts, as I feel I should replace them for new, Edited April 6, 2013 by Supratad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir655 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Sorry to jack the thread, but i replaced my pads only on mine (non-brembo) with EBC pads. They came with some sort of 3M sticker rubber thingy that you're supposed to stick to the pads. I skipped the rubber stickers and used the stock shims that were on the old pads and now I have squeaky brakes :/ What did i do wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I've just finished this job over the weekend, but I forgot the rear caliper bolts have a lower torque setting than the fronts, so I tried to get 152Nm on all 4 rear bolts. I couldn't pull hard enough to get the torque wrench to click at 152, so I reckon I've put about 120Nm onto them, which is way too much. Does anyone sell the bolts, as I feel I should replace them for new, What torque were they supposed to be? In any event, it's unlikely that you've stretched them. Loosen them off and start again. Otherwise Zmanalex will be able to supply new bolts. Sorry to jack the thread, but i replaced my pads only on mine (non-brembo) with EBC pads. They came with some sort of 3M sticker rubber thingy that you're supposed to stick to the pads. I skipped the rubber stickers and used the stock shims that were on the old pads and now I have squeaky brakes :/ What did i do wrong? Some makes/compounds will squeal more than others. Otherwise you can try smearing some Coppaslip on the rear of the pads/shims. This interferes with the harmonic frequency created between the piston and the pad. Although you shouldn't use as much as shown in the guide above or you risk blobs flinging off and possibly contaminating the discs/pads. A smear where the piston contacts the pad is usually sufficient. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supratad Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Its difficult to find rear spec, but I think it was about 84 Nm, or 62 ft lbs. I've got a nagging concern now, so as you say, Zmanalex will soothe me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Rough step by step: Jack car up Wheel off Caliper bolts removed Curse, swear and have a strop about how difficult they are to get off Eventually get the bolts off Caliper to one side with brake line still attached (might want something to prop this up on) Remove bolt that holds brake disc onto hub Change disc Remove pads from caliper Replace pads in caliper Some form of clamp or caliper retractor tool (can be got from Halfords or car parts shop) Caliper back over disc Replace bolts Make sure everything's secure and done up tight Wheel back on Car down Bed the new pads and discs in You forgot the bit about checking runout with a DTI and making sure mating surfaces are clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Rough step by step: Jack car up Wheel off Caliper bolts removed Curse, swear and have a strop about how difficult they are to get off Eventually get the bolts off Caliper to one side with brake line still attached (might want something to prop this up on) Remove bolt that holds brake disc onto hub Change disc Remove pads from caliper Replace pads in caliper Some form of clamp or caliper retractor tool (can be got from Halfords or car parts shop) Caliper back over disc Replace bolts Make sure everything's secure and done up tight Wheel back on Car down Bed the new pads and discs in You forgot the bit about checking runout with a DTI and making sure mating surfaces are clean I've got a runout gauge now but dot 2 years I did without. Never had a problem. Some copper grease or better plus other grease is handy. Ceratech for the brake pads the other grease I forgot which one is handy for the pins so they come out easy next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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