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WOW!- Upgraded the Ground- What a difference!


live2themaxuk

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I guess there is no way to tell if you have bad ground without upgrading to see?

 

Might just have to get a kit when I get paid.

 

Its worth doing if for only peace of mind, the main ground cable from the battery to chassis is very poor especially when you consider that then it travels through the steel chassis to other points that want grounding ..ie engine. And steel is not the best conductor so fitting a bunch of copper cables as to be an improvement but like i said you may not notice a difference. I made my cables as stated earlier but i did not notice any difference, but i know that key points around the under bonnet area are better connected than when it left the factory :thumbs:

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Hmm interesting. Especially as I am going to add a CarPC which is powered direct from the battery (using its own power cable), but will obviously be earthed to the chasis. Should I be thinking of running a ground direct back to the battery for the CarPC as well? :headhurt:

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Hmm interesting. Especially as I am going to add a CarPC which is powered direct from the battery (using its own power cable), but will obviously be earthed to the chasis. Should I be thinking of running a ground direct back to the battery for the CarPC as well? :headhurt:

 

If not to the battery but certainly back to one of the key grounding points after the kit as been fitted. :thumbs:

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Ummm forgive the fng question boys but wtf does a ground kit actually consist of (roughly) and why would it have the effects mentioned by Jamie?:blush:

 

Basically its a bunch of very low resistance cable connected to key points of your engine and chassis to improve your electrical grounding, to basically improve electrical performance in key areas like your throttle body and ecu as the standard earthing connection leaves very little to be desired. :thumbs:

 

http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... highlight= :thumbs:

 

Ta Beavis :thumbs:

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With any 'audio ' related equipment, i have found it very important to keep grounds to the chassis and most importantly AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE, grouploops are a bitch and running grounds back to the battery DO NOT fix them, in alot of cases it just makes them worse. The cause is the way it which electricity likes to work, and the difference in ground resistance the audio equipment 'sees', when its connected to other grounded connected (via RCAs) sources. This takes into account cable length, internal circuitty and place where its grounded. It will then try and equalise the ground down what ever wire is connecting the two pieces of eqipment, usually Phono leads, this isnt usually a problem, but the problem is it passes 'A/C down it' from the alternator, and its this noise you hear as 'whine'.

 

 

Jamie

 

 

 

Hmm interesting. Especially as I am going to add a CarPC which is powered direct from the battery (using its own power cable), but will obviously be earthed to the chasis. Should I be thinking of running a ground direct back to the battery for the CarPC as well? :headhurt:

 

If not to the battery but certainly back to one of the key grounding points after the kit as been fitted. :thumbs:

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