Louisa911 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks I shall have a look into that now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yeah I reckon grey will come up nicely with a sealant - silver and white do too. Why not go for something 'nano' to add a layer of glossiness - maybe Wolf's hardbody or Ultima? Cheers Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=293341&highlight=grey&page=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I was just about to suggest Hard Body and Auto Finesse Tough Coat as alternatives to Werkstat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louisa911 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Interesting.... would Hardbody just replace wax in the usual routine, after wash, claybar and polish? Or would I need to change the type of prep work and polishing product used too? Thanks, you guys certainly know your stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I would only polish when necessary, so for example on my own car once I'd done the correction as best possible with the DAS6 I then put the coat of wax on. From then on all I've needed to do is to wash and reapply the wax if it needed a top up. In a more straightforward answer to your question though, yes you'd prep the same and just substitute sealant for wax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 just spent 2 days on our shed, a silver Volvo, using virtually the same stuff you got there, came up a blinding treat, you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) I would only polish when necessary, so for example on my own car once I'd done the correction as best possible with the DAS6 I then put the coat of wax on. From then on all I've needed to do is to wash and reapply the wax if it needed a top up. In a more straightforward answer to your question though, yes you'd prep the same and just substitute sealant for wax. What he said Louise...Key to detailing is the prep.... Do it once, do it well, and then use a careful wash routine which doesn't damage paint. Clay bar should only be used maybe twice a year, and will remove all protection and will also potentially marr the paint as it is very soft. Once LSP applied unlikely to need to clay often tbh. Finally, a fallout remover like iron x as part of that prep would be good. Amazing stuff and you'd be surprised how much crud it will get rid of, even after claying. Applying a final stage protection step should be as regular as you need it. So, some waxes could be every other wash. Some will last longer. Top up protection with a quick detailer if not going the whole hog. But my suggestion would be, once well polished - preferably by machine - do an ipa wipedown and apply a decent sealant like wolfs hardbody. This will last about 6 months.... Obv. This is just my preference, some people like the look for certain products. Sealants tend to do ultra glossy reflection whereas wax can look 'warmer' and more liquid... Edited March 7, 2013 by downhuman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I was just about to suggest Hard Body and Auto Finesse Tough Coat as alternatives to Werkstat. Good choices. I have had some of the best results ever from ultimata paintwork protector .... Rarely used here due to cost and availability . But if you can get hold of some do it. Looks and smells like ipa.... Apply with an applicator thinly, let dry for 30 mins and if done correctly ... No buffing needed. Apply another layer if you wish. Looks like zaino but bonus of no buffing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louisa911 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Definitely bookmarking this page for next time. Need to get the other half's machine polisher out and give it one proper "do" in a month or so. Great advice everybody, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yeah I'm going to do a two dayer on mine once the weather improves, will do a write up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Interesting.... would Hardbody just replace wax in the usual routine, after wash, claybar and polish? Or would I need to change the type of prep work and polishing product used too? As Ekona and Downhuman have said, I can't add much more to that. Thanks, you guys certainly know your stuff! Trial and error on what works best for you really, I don't even dare think about how much I've spent on detailing products though. Good choices. I have had some of the best results ever from ultimata paintwork protector .... Rarely used here due to cost and availability . But if you can get hold of some do it. Looks and smells like ipa.... Apply with an applicator thinly, let dry for 30 mins and if done correctly ... No buffing needed. Apply another layer if you wish. Looks like zaino but bonus of no buffing I've not tried Ultima but I've found Tough Coat and Werkstat Acrylic to be very similar. I was using EX-P on my Azure this winter but that was replaced with the Werkstat at the weekend as I had some left over from when I had my silver Impreza. I tend to favour a wax over the summer months on the Zed though so may look into Ultima for next winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 If you're nice I can give you a small amount.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 You, sir, are a true gent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gringo Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 LOL.........I'm bamboozled now!!! I'll start with what I've got and move on from there!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 You, sir, are a true gent. PM me your address and I will hook you up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I was thinking, what with all this Waxybox action (and clearly some passionate owners / detailers) we should look at our own swap shop. I have tonnes of products, some of which I don't get on with but someone else might Maybe we need a section to do swaps etc but for detailing stuff (not just parts?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Ola gringo. I bought (what now appears to be the Megs Noob kit!) almost identical to yours as my first ever selection of "proper" cleaning products, just last month. I had a brief crack a couple of weeks ago for my first wash up and got a fine result. I'm doing my first clay this weekend hopefully, as I have had some panels resprayed and she's now ready for a proper go. I'm in no position to give advice, very much a learner, but for what it's worth I wouldn't panic over what you've got, it was all easy to use and I didn't have any problems and it looked good. If these guys are saying have a bash, when it runs out, try a new one, repeat as needed - I'd run with it. Everyone likes something different, and I imagine its a little subjective (within limits). Not sure if there is any Waxybox action left (try searching it) but I'm hoping it will introduce me to a load of new and weird products I never would have considered, all at a bargain price! Whatever we use at first, we must surely be WAY ahead of going down the disused petrol station and getting the £5 hand job special from a surly chap with a limp and double denim! Anyone dis-agree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Ola gringo. I bought (what now appears to be the Megs Noob kit!) almost identical to yours as my first ever selection of "proper" cleaning products, just last month. I had a brief crack a couple of weeks ago for my first wash up and got a fine result. I'm doing my first clay this weekend hopefully, as I have had some panels resprayed and she's now ready for a proper go. I'm in no position to give advice, very much a learner, but for what it's worth I wouldn't panic over what you've got, it was all easy to use and I didn't have any problems and it looked good. If these guys are saying have a bash, when it runs out, try a new one, repeat as needed - I'd run with it. Everyone likes something different, and I imagine its a little subjective (within limits). Not sure if there is any Waxybox action left (try searching it) but I'm hoping it will introduce me to a load of new and weird products I never would have considered, all at a bargain price! Whatever we use at first, we must surely be WAY ahead of going down the disused petrol station and getting the £5 hand job special from a surly chap with a limp and double denim! Anyone dis-agree? Agree. But the most important thing is technique. As with so many things. Can have whatever whizzy products you like but poor technique is the killer. Basics like two bucket wash method... Straight line drying with towels or a blower ... If you drop something on the floor, especially clay, don't use it .... Follow chemical instructions .... Don't apply too much product .... Etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Straight line drying? Please tell me more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Straight line drying? Please tell me more. AFAIK use the drying towel in straight lines, as the air would flow over the body. No Mr Miyagi circular motions (to prevent swirls) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhuman Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Straight line drying? Please tell me more. AFAIK use the drying towel in straight lines, as the air would flow over the body. No Mr Miyagi circular motions (to prevent swirls) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I love learning new stuff. Ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gringo Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Thanks for all the input.......I shall take the tips on board and have a good go at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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