shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 All, front windscreen washers have stopped working. I have had the Y section off the tubing and its not blocked. The return valve is not blocked as I can blow air through it. The wiper jets are not blocked? The headlight washers and rear washer is working fine. Does the headlight washer and windscreen wiper use the same motor? Any suggestions, please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick43 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Usually the one way valve in my experience....(near the Y-connector) get a new one from Halfords... 2 minute fix.. Local dealer wanted me to book car in for this to be investigated... a quick search on here and I found the <£1 problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Another member has had the same problem recently - see here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/67684-windscreen-washer-issue/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 I removed the non return valve and it seems clear, as can blow air through it. When the non return valve is removed, the pump should still push water through shouldnt it? Think I will be contacting zmanalex for his services once again for a new pump!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 For the sake of 1 or 2 pounds, try another valve that does seem to have sorted others with a similar issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Cheers Ebized. Ill try that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 There are two pumps on the washer reservoir bottle and I think one does the rear and one does the front, can't remember if they are separately fused though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Ive had the Zed from new (2004) and dont know where the fuse box is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Are the 2 pimps inter changeable? I dont really use the rear wash as its rubbish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Are the 2 pimps inter changeable? I dont really use the rear wash as its rubbish I do belive they are Dose it make a noise when you turn the washer on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 No mate, cant hear noise, thats why I think the pump is not working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 No mate, cant hear noise, thats why I think the pump is not working Me to As you have checked all the pipe work - I'd be onto fuses next but I doubt it has it's own anything else not working? 2 fuse boxes to look at 1 is on the right side of the drivers footwell the other is in the battery compartment - good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Everything else is fine. Will check the fuses later. Looks like a new pump though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Unfortunately the pumps are different and not interchangable. Try without the non return valve and see if water gushes out the pipe. Pumps in stock if required. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Zmanalex, Ive tried this already and nothing!! Its either the fuse or the pump. Going by most stories, its most probably the pump. Anyone know which fuse I should be checking, and where it can be found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinmwatters Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 shieldsie - did you have any joy with this. I am experiencing the exact same issue, havent checked the fuses though. From the labelling on the outside of the fuse box in the battery compartment, it seems there is only 1 fuse for the washers? Or am I missing something? If not, how easy is the motor swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Are the 2 pimps inter changeable? I dont really use the rear wash as its rubbish The pumps are but as for your "Pimps" you will have to ask them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay M1988 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Can i query guys ive swapped the pumps over and ive now a trickle coming from the front washers. Im changing the return valve this weekend but wanted to clarify some say they aren't interchangeable and ive literally swapped em last weekend. Are they different power or just the same? Just checking whether thats caused the trickle as the rear isnt as strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Can i query guys ive swapped the pumps over and ive now a trickle coming from the front washers. Im changing the return valve this weekend but wanted to clarify some say they aren't interchangeable and ive literally swapped em last weekend. Are they different power or just the same? Just checking whether thats caused the trickle as the rear isnt as strong The front & rear washer motor pumps have different connections on them AFAIK. If you've just swapped the pumps positions over then you've actually changed nothing or do you mean you've actually swapped the pumps power connectors over? if so then someones maybe put a different pump in there before as front & rear should be different connectors. Have a read of this thread posted the other day for the answer on how to fix your weak washer jet spray: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/100604-front-washers-very-weak/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay M1988 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Much appreciated gm might just get a new one anyway. As say the non return valve will be gone this weekend. I did it a while ago but im sure i swapped the motors over as the rear one just reached and connected to the front washer bottle. No connectors changed so effectively im pressing the rear washer jet in the car from ot to come out of the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Much appreciated gm might just get a new one anyway. As say the non return valve will be gone this weekend. I did it a while ago but im sure i swapped the motors over as the rear one just reached and connected to the front washer bottle. No connectors changed so effectively im pressing the rear washer jet in the car from ot to come out of the front. No probs and I get what you did now. FYI The front washer motor pump is the cheaper of the two. You can get a new aftermarket front washer motor pump for around £10 odd from Clark Motorsport but the rear washer motor pump is a little more. Just recently though "Blue Print" have started making an aftermarket rear washer pump for the 350Z which is thankfully cheaper than the OEM ones (the OEM Nissan one is around £40-£50 odd for the rear!). Both pumps here (although rear is the more expensive OEM): http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/website/webshop/productsSearch.asp Cheaper "Blue print" rear washer motor here (BluePrint part number ADN10316): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Print-ADN10316-Washer-Pump/dp/B00B90LE00 Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay M1988 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Thanks mate your help is much appreciated. Get this non return valve swapped over and see if I finally have pressure. If I do then ill order a new front motor problemo solved... he says before working on the car haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Good luck Jay and hope you get it all sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominicc Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 thanks for your tips. Mine stopped working recently, symptoms were: * no pump noise * activating switch on steering column activated wipers ok. but no spray, so 'combination switch' is OK. Fault finding process: * removed driver side washer pipe connection to wiper, activated switch, no pump noise, no screen cleaning fluid pressure. * fuse 84 in IPDM (near battery) was OK. (4th one down, right hand side) * with fuse 84 removed orange wire on pin 44 of E8 on IPDM had no voltage, with fuse present 12v. * removed fender protected - was a PITA as two bolts securing it to the bumper were rusted solid. * removed connector from spray pump, connected 12v LIPO battery to it, Orange wire positive. * pump motor did not spin. Cause: * faulty pump. Removal and inspection of pump: * removed pump, after placing 5L tray under pump to catch full tank of liquid. * quickly noted 5L wasn't enough to catch and scooped some out into a container! haha. * noted that the pump was visibily rusty inside the sealed plastic unit. Inspected inside the opening and blew it through with air compressor, nothing came out, no noise from whizzing pump impeller. motor likely seized. Since the fault was definitely the pump I removed the bottom of it, to access the internals, the two halves are glued together in the factory, not designed to be serviced. removed plastic impeller and noted motor shaft sounded crunchy. gave it a few turns and re-applied power to it and sure-enough it spins up, however I don't fancy the chances of me gluing the two halves back together or it lasting for very long and ordered a new part. I found useful information in the 350z service manual (Revision 2006 November). In the WW.pdf file: WW-10 has schematic. WW-12/WW-13 has system connection diagram with cable colors, connector diagrams/pinouts. WW-35 has section "Removal and Installation of Washer Pump" / NKS0052W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazemaguire Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 If you've replaced all pumps etc, try an airline through the hoses combined with a sewing needle in the jet nozzles, as even if it's pumping it can be clogged to the point where it don't function. Mine has pulled a load of crap through the lines {tbf it was probably me not rinsing out the old water can I used to fill it last time!) Just fair warning, if you do airline it.. Take the little 3 way rubber connector off the passenger side wiper (you'll see what I mean when you disassemble)... I didn't and the air line blew it across the drive. Took forever to find the bastard on a tarmaced drive lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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