evilscorp Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) DIY guide of what not to do.... probably. . Bought the car summer 2010 stayed standard 2 weeks then zeditus struck. I dont eat or buy new clothes, my shoes have holes in them my girlfriend moved to Singapore for a year as my other "woman" has taken over. Life sucks :-D JDM 2003 track spec or whatever crazy option list they ticked. brembos and lsd all I cared about. BODYWORK ing+1 full bodykit with poo paint job(one of two things I did not fit myself) Now with oem bumper GT lip and carbon canards seibon VS carbon bonnet with fiberglass reinforcement removed in areas to allow raisd strut bar to fit. zspeed undertray Stubby arial Drift crash bar Carbon ebay eyelids,. WHEELS rota 19"grids in black 245/275 falken 452 tyres SUSPENSION BC br series new bushes and bolts for some of the hubs. Eibach roll bars Whiteline drop links whiteline diff and subframe bushes whiteline rear axle bushes eibach camber arms SPL traction arms BRAKES DBA disc's all round ebc yellows or ferrodo's trying them both out. Hel gold lines to match the brembo calipers and BC's (hopefully you have scrolled down to miss all the boring stuff) ENGINE DC Sports true dual AMS lightweight pulleys motordyne plenum spacer platinum one step colder plugs Uprev AEM wideband air/fuel gauge AEM boost gauge AAM basic fuel return system Deatchwerks 600cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump Uprev GT MAF Rutland motors catch tanks Vortech V3 supercharger 3.12 vortech pulley Timrod radius rod 3" Maf intake pipe Treadstone 1245 intercooler K&N big boy filter with Ash hoses for custom intake. Kaaz 1.5 LSD ICE some head unit that adds weight, probably with one or two speakers in the rear. INTERIOR fire extinguisher boot plastics removed me COMING SOON Competition Clutch Stage 4, 6 puck sprung Lightweight flywheel BGW Stardast + AMS front frenders and side skirts + JP vizage bumper and JDM rear with diffuser and smoked LED indicators Ditch finders tyre lettering. Red wheel nuts. Alcantara and diamond padded leather doors. SFL oil gauge in tarmac sports twin a pillar pod. New wheels! Built Motor; Eagle rods ACL bearings ARP main studs ARP L19 head bolts Rev-up oil pump Wisco custom Pistons 9.5;1 with coatings Head gasket Cometic Fluidampr crank pulley Mishimoto hoses Mishimoto radiator Mishimoto fans Mishimoto 1.3 bar carbon rad cap Mishimoto oil sandwich plate DC sports headers Nismo thermostat HKS twin spark RC 1000cc injectors Areomotive 340lph fuel pump GReedy magnetic sump plug Nismo balanced crankshaft. Haltech platinum pro plugin ECU. Jim Wolf Tech valve springs. Kinetics Plenum (Modified by zmanalex) Valve stem seals and new valve guides Ferrea Water pump oem Timing chain and guides oem CJM fuel pump -6an adapter Brian Crower intake/exhaust valves JWT C2 camshafts Probably other stuff I have forgotten about that has been thrown in the attic with the rest. Here is my car parked in glasgow Edited March 2, 2017 by evilscorp 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Nice build spec And my I be the first to say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) might have guessed you would be up at this time :-p yeah yeah when I surface in the morning/afternoon I will start uploading photos. Edited October 18, 2012 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 might have guessed you would be up at this time :-p yeah yeah when I surface in the morning/afternoon I will start uploading photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) humm.... not quite what I was after, need to go back to school on how to post photos me thinks. Edited October 18, 2012 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Started to install my AEM air/fuel gauge but ran out of time, will finish at the weekend. Surprising how long it takes to poke a hole through a rubber gromet using long nose pliers! Also kept changing my mind where I wanted to route the cable, and since the seibon bonnet lets in water at the back I desided not to ruin the main gromet that is used for the engine wires and use the one at the front of the battery bay, just need to cable tie it round to the back then drop it down to the tranny (hehe) bracket that the original O2 sensors are hung off. Its just hanging at the passenger footwell at the moment until I remove the centre console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Best route to run them Are you planning on running 2 or just the 1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) Best route to run them Are you planning on running 2 or just the 1? At the moment just 1, the hdev decats only came with one spare bung for some reason, also not sure how gd condition the thread is in. I have two spare but dont want the hassle of removing the decats when i dont have access to a ramp. Also going to try and mount the gauges where the jdm satnav/rear camera screen is,but not sure if i will have space for three in there(boost and the A/F gauges). Edited October 25, 2012 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 Had to make space for the gauges, so removed the reverse camera and screen + all the miles of random cable. Going to cut a sheet of Aluminium to hold the gauges and fill the hole where the screen was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Installed the O2 sensor and routed the wires up the original wiring loom and along the brake line and into the battery compartment. It was all going smoothly and was happy with the placement of everything, went to wire up the power to the gauge and ....... nothing nowt zip! Reconnected the tv screen that used the power wires and it worked fine, so ruled them out, then Keyser recommended I try the gauge directly against the battery and nowt! So it is either a poor join in the supplied cables or the gauge is jiggered! waiting to test the cables on monday at work with a multimeter. Then had a go at cutting out a alu plate to fill the hole and mount the gauges in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 So after Keyser spotted I had been sent the wrong instructions, I wired up those spare 2 wires to a power source and my world lit up (well the gauge did) I could have wired it up like the manual suggests but wasn't bothered with the needle re-zeroing after turning the ignition off so saved a bit of hassle by joining them all to an single ignition power source. Bit gutted that the orange back light didn't match the oem gauges in the Z so just keeping it red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 why did you not go for the led digital gauges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEM-Wideband-AFR-Lambda-UEGO-Gauge-Complete-kit-/120997257546?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c2bffa14a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Cheaper also didn't want to get confused with my digital boost gauge that looks very similar to your ones. If sh'@ hits the fan I know which gauge to look at lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Measure once,twice,three times.... ohh sod it, that will do As the picture shows I made the bracket a bit small but have always had the intention of using some 3M carbon wrap to cover it so not too bothered as eventually it will hide the gaps at the sides. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Good progress mate Glad the gauges are all working again What you going to do with the lower panel and all the buttons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Good progress mate Glad the gauges are all working again What you going to do with the lower panel and all the buttons? I kinda like it reminds me its my jap import muscle car! May hook up some missiles and machine guns to them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 ......................... May hook up some missiles and machine guns to them! You have been watching far to much James Bond mate But you would have the joystick for targeting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Started to strip the car in prep. Then unfortunately I check my inbox to which I have a worried Chris saying the parcel tracking doesn't look good as there has been no movement since wed night. Hopefully I will eventually receive my supercharger, just having problems with plonkers the other side of the pond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Walbro 255 fuel pump install pump carrier out Uncliped all the electrical connectors so two halfs can come apart Filter was a little dirty, uncliped the plastic bracket that secures the old pump in place pushed down on the electrical connector on top of the old pump to slide it out,took a bit of force. swap over the rubber seal at the top Remove the locking spring washer that keeps the filter on the pump sawed off the 3 tabs at the bottom of the pump Then you can fit the cap back on (see picture to see which 3 tabs to saw off, you will maybe want to test fit before you attach the filter to the new pump) Then swapped over the plastic and rubber o-rings from the old pressure regulator Drilled a hole using a 10mm drill(had to also file it larger as I didnt have any larger drill bits not much filing tho) so I could fit the 90* AAM fuel return pipe that will eventually connect to the return line. (instructions were not great to find which way the plastic washer and rubber o-ring went, may have got this wrong but it seems a tight enough seal.) Connected the top 90* pipe down to the replaced pressure reg which has a fitting on it This was a nightmare to get off used a 1.8mm drill bit to increase the swirl jet size All back together, but had to problem solve, the two units would not compress. Noticed that one of the tabs on the pressure regulator cap was fouling against the swirl jet housing, just needed to pull the housing to the side to allow the units to compress properly. Back in the tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrumbMC Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Awesome mate. Can't beat a good pic heavy diy thread. Best of luck with the rest of the install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Cheers, I will wait till next Saturday to tackle the next part of the fuel return system and maybe the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) So it begins Keep the pics coming. Edited January 21, 2013 by GT4 Zed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironhide Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Great progress and looking good, i remember faffing about with my old Altezza stick a Walbro fuel pump in, not the most fun jobs to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Before I start, wanted to say thanks to Keyser for the heads up on how much of a pain in the butt this job was. Had a go at feeding the new fuel return line up from under the car beside the old fuel lines and to the new fitting on the walbro (fuel pump housing) Spent 30mins looking at a 90* plastic cover that protects the fuel lines and carriers before it goes up past the fuel tank. Couldnt find any pictures or info on the lines/clips etc in the manual and the cover had some rusted plates with square plastic blocks poking through. Finally realised that under all the rust were some tabs to push in to remove the cover however one was so far up and out of reach it caused some frustration Used a cable tie to feed some string down the uber tight path beside the other fuel lines then attached this to the end of the new hose fitting and with my dad in the car pulling the string and me pushing the hose we managed to get the hose up and over the tank, not a fun job when you barely have enough room to turn your head under the car(own fault should have used taller axle stands). Managed to do all the hard work but have been stumped by the fuel line carrier/clamps, the three at the fuel tank were slightly loose and easily managed to pop off one of the oem lines so I could fit the new line in the carrier but the rest of the clamps are solid against the car and not quite sure the correct technique to get them off without breaking them???? Here's a pic of the hard bit I managed to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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