10" sub replacement for the BOSE sub?

[4RE Leather]

Pete I have an aftermarket HU and have full control still of the phone and sound on the steering wheel controls.

 

All you need is an adapter.

 

I am OEM all round and as i said to a few others, I really would like to get this bluetooth issue sorted to how it should be.

To recap, Phone and module talk to each other and both been tested in others cars as working A1

In my car module not communicating with steering wheel controls or head unit.

If someone calls me the phone shows they are connected but thats it.

Sparky or Smurf will hopefully be able to have a look for me:)

[notfub]

Pics of my sub install here....

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 557&type=3

 

The sub is bolted down using existing holes in the chassis so no extra drilling needed. Lee at Sonic Frontiers build the box and created my setup. He used a rainbow vanadium 10" sub in the end and it's as clean and low as any sub I've ever used before, very impressed. There's morel mids in the doors and morel tweeters in the a-pillars, using DLS crossovers for a more aggressive cut off slope. The rear speakers have been removed and not replaced as the staging would be all over the place if there was any rear fill pulling the sound back towards the boot. A Genesis 4 channel amp powers it all with an Alpine head unit.

[spursmaddave]

Nice.... I have thought about mounting the amp under the boot carpet, wouldn't take much maybe a bit of cutting the polystyrene block things....

 

I would personally sort the other speakers and amp first, if you get decent ones you might not even want/need more bass....

 

I made do with the bose sub for quite a while....

 

 

That would be a good idea to maybe sink it in your boot, maybe with a overlay so that you could cover it for when transporting bondage gear and the like.

 

Bondage gear is not too heavy all latex and rubber, the chains are not too think as i'm pretty sub (pun intended) although a couple of the dildo's are quite weighty

[Dblock]

Personally I'd ditch the rear speakers they are bad for sound stage and unless they are as good quality as your comps they will reduce the quality.

 

Also I do understand Iso boxes need half the space but I find they aren't as smooth as sealed or good ported boxes. Low end is usually heavy and would you have it sealed or ported?

[Wasso]

Personally I'd ditch the rear speakers they are bad for sound stage and unless they are as good quality as your comps they will reduce the quality.

 

Also I do understand Iso boxes need half the space but I find they aren't as smooth as sealed or good ported boxes. Low end is usually heavy and would you have it sealed or ported?

 

Well being the rears and fronts are of the same brand range I'd hope they are of the same quality. I actually like rear definition to give a fuller flavour, but staged correctly.

 

The design of the sub box will be negotiable, but firstly need to work out if 2 10's are achievable. I'm personally thinking 2 8's. Then there's a potential single 10?

 

Not sure if 8's would suffice though.

[MattyV6]

If you want to utilize the standard Bose sub location then the only way you will get decent results is to do what notfub has done and build a box within the space.

 

Because the standard Bose sub is an Infinate Baffle variant, you will get little to no output by mounting a normal sub in its place - trust me I've tried lol! And that was with a 275w RMS JBL GT5 run off a 550w RMS Genesis Profile Sub amp.

 

As for the Isobaric stuff, tbh I wouldnt bother with new subwoofers. Its just going to be more hassle than its worth. New subs are designed to be run in smaller enclosures and off more power to get loud. I remember reading specs for an old Phoenix Gold 12" sub from the 90s that required 3.5cuft for its "optimal" ported enclosure. A modern 12" sub would require 2cuft max for a ported enclosure.

 

There is plenty of room available in behind the place the Bose sub mounts, I would say easily 1cuft probably near 2. A single 10" sub sealed will need around 0.8cuft of enclosure space. Ported around 1.2cuft. An 8" is obviously less.

 

Let me know if you need any help with wiring etc. I've torn the Bose amp(s) out of my Zed and replaced them. But for the minute I'm still using the standard Bose front & rear speakers and using the Bose speaker loom connected to my own amp.

[4RE Leather]

Pics of my sub install here....

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 557&type=3

 

The sub is bolted down using existing holes in the chassis so no extra drilling needed. Lee at Sonic Frontiers build the box and created my setup. He used a rainbow vanadium 10" sub in the end and it's as clean and low as any sub I've ever used before, very impressed. There's morel mids in the doors and morel tweeters in the a-pillars, using DLS crossovers for a more aggressive cut off slope. The rear speakers have been removed and not replaced as the staging would be all over the place if there was any rear fill pulling the sound back towards the boot. A Genesis 4 channel amp powers it all with an Alpine head unit.

 

OMG I am like a kid in a sweetie shop with that lot.

I would not dare leave it when out and needs to be in a locked garage.

Do you get any grief from Insurance companies?

[Wasso]

Don't worry what ever happens it'll be boxed. Free air is naff!

 

I remember the real deep smooth clear crisp deep tones of my old 8's isobaric. I don't really want a great big uncontrolled thud.

 

Lets look at it this way.

 

2 10's isobaric might not be achievable with space, 2 8's might not be enough. But a single 10 may be the last resort, ported and tuned correctly.

 

I'd prefer 2 10's but feel I maybe compromised by the shape issues behind the sub. I've totally stripped my passenger cubby out, so I'm guessing the same shape resides behind the drivers seat. I may have to resort to a single 10?

[MattyV6]

Yeah both sides are the same

[Dblock]

Don't worry what ever happens it'll be boxed. Free air is naff!

 

I remember the real deep smooth clear crisp deep tones of my old 8's isobaric. I don't really want a great big uncontrolled thud.

 

Lets look at it this way.

 

2 10's isobaric might not be achievable with space, 2 8's might not be enough. But a single 10 may be the last resort, ported and tuned correctly.

 

I'd prefer 2 10's but feel I maybe compromised by the shape issues behind the sub. I've totally stripped my passenger cubby out, so I'm guessing the same shape resides behind the drivers seat. I may have to resort to a single 10?

 

Are you sure it was? Usually a nice sealed box with the right amount of cuft will give you a nice clear crisp sound. Was your old box ported?

 

I agree with Mayyv6 though. I run a 10" with 0.6cuft sealed with 1200wrms and it sounds ok.

[Wasso]

Don't worry what ever happens it'll be boxed. Free air is naff!

 

I remember the real deep smooth clear crisp deep tones of my old 8's isobaric. I don't really want a great big uncontrolled thud.

 

Lets look at it this way.

 

2 10's isobaric might not be achievable with space, 2 8's might not be enough. But a single 10 may be the last resort, ported and tuned correctly.

 

I'd prefer 2 10's but feel I maybe compromised by the shape issues behind the sub. I've totally stripped my passenger cubby out, so I'm guessing the same shape resides behind the drivers seat. I may have to resort to a single 10?

 

Are you sure it was? Usually a nice sealed box with the right amount of cuft will give you a nice clear crisp sound. Was your old box ported?

 

I agree with Mayyv6 though. I run a 10" with 0.6cuft sealed with 1200wrms and it sounds ok.

 

For the isobaric installation sounded really rich in bass, very controlled. It was ported but just on the one side. I think we copied a design back in the day.

 

I may just resort to the single. I guess it'll be a more simple box design.

 

 

Are you seriously running 1200 rms through a single sub?

[Dblock]

Yes, FI Q.

 

This is the new ones that take 1500wrms.

 

http://store.ficaraudio.com/q10/

 

I used to have a RE XXX v3 15" in a 4cuft box port tuned to 33hz running 1600wrms.

[Wasso]

Yes, FI Q.

 

This is the new ones that take 1500wrms.

 

http://store.ficaraudio.com/q10/

 

I used to have a RE XXX v3 15" in a 4cuft box port tuned to 33hz running 1600wrms.

 

Wicked

 

You may relate to this, as they look the same.

 

 

*Edit*

 

In fact have you ever heard of a chap called Ian "Ice" Pinder? A chap I used to know from back in the day. He was the SPL king of the earth.

[Dblock]

Steve Meade is a ledge.

 

 

Did he have the astra van? The "Ice man"?

 

Box design can have a massive impact on how the sub sounds e.g. good sub bad box = disappointment and bad sub + good box design = decent sound. Good sub + good box = wicked sound.

 

Porting an isobaric box can be hard and make it big, same with bandpass. If you really know what you want just get it or maybe try sealed see how it is and then maybe make the box bigger ( you could use wadding which would slow down the air and make the sub think the box is bigger but would knock off maybe 3db of) then you could port it or see what other people in their cars run?

 

Problem with the Z is a funny shaped space.

[4RE Leather]

I say guys.

I lost the plot with Wasso's icobars!

Thought he was reading the weather:)

[Wasso]

That's him

 

When I was a weeee snapper, I met him at the Chelsea Cruise, a cruise that's been going on for decades. He used to have a lot of work done at In Car Audio in Acton west London. He joined forces with the Earthquake team to build an American Van that won MANY SPL competitions.

 

Ian first started with this:

 

 

He's a really nice bloke but just a tad crazy.

 

 

The chap you see with a safari hat is a chap called Adam Rayner, who IS actually Claire Rayners son. He used to help run huge SPL at In Car in Acton.

[Dblock]

Adam Rayner he is a reviewer and writer on talk audio. you should join there as you know the important people

[Wasso]

Adam Rayner he is a reviewer and writer on talk audio. you should join there as you know the important people

 

Ha ha, I knew a few people in the scene many years ago.

 

I had 2 Opel Manta GTE's one exclusive and one normal. The exclusive I was running 4 x 12" subs in the boot. The entire system was ran with Earthquake amps. Their amps were always underrated, for instance you think you were purchasing say a 1k amp, but when running you could achieve roughly a 20% increase from manufactures quote. They weren't the best quality for audio phonics but hell they packed a punch. I was running 2.5k back then, and then when the car was stolen I never went back to car audio. It was too painful knowing the insurance company doesn't cover that sort of equipment

[slimjim]

ooohhhh.... slippery slope Ian!

 

Let me know if you need any help with anything

[MattyV6]

I used to have a RE XXX v3 15" in a 4cuft box port tuned to 33hz running 1600wrms.

 

I had two of those in my old car 3000w RMS amp (currently in the Zed), and a 6th order box doing 146-148dB from 20-40hz Loved it!

 

Still have one left for sale too ;)

 

You may relate to this, as they look the same.

 

 

*Edit*

 

In fact have you ever heard of a chap called Ian "Ice" Pinder? A chap I used to know from back in the day. He was the SPL king of the earth.

 

I was gonna say, what you described sounds more like a 6th order enclosure! No wonder it was so controlled and clean/crisp for a pair of 8"s! 6th orders are great for output but complicated to design and take up lots of space. Im going to be doing a sort of 6th order in the Zed with a pair of 10"s, all to come

 

Steve Meade is a ledge.

 

Did he have the astra van? The "Ice man"?

 

Box design can have a massive impact on how the sub sounds e.g. good sub bad box = disappointment and bad sub + good box design = decent sound. Good sub + good box = wicked sound.

 

Porting an isobaric box can be hard and make it big, same with bandpass. If you really know what you want just get it or maybe try sealed see how it is and then maybe make the box bigger ( you could use wadding which would slow down the air and make the sub think the box is bigger but would knock off maybe 3db of) then you could port it or see what other people in their cars run?

 

Problem with the Z is a funny shaped space.

 

I know Ian from his Astra van days That thing is (still is? think hes rebuilding it tho) a BEAST! Soooo much air movement, love it! Ian is a top chap too, always up for a chat and very friendly

 

The Zed is my biggest audio install challenge yet as it is an awkward shape to install into! Would be so much easier without that bloody strut brace lol! I'll see if I can put up a progress thread on my install soon for you all to have a gander at

[Dblock]

Yes please. I like audio stuff but its too expensive and the urge to upgrade is strong so I keep away from it until I NEED something

 

I loved my old RE but 2 most have been MAD!

 

I cant really remember what the pros and cons of each boxes are but as you said because the z is a funny shape it limits your options, but saying that might be good for your creativity.

[MattyV6]

Yeah it was awesome, really miss it But one of them has gone to a good home with my friend and I still get to listen to it frequently which is cool lol

 

I'll sort out a thread later - I havent done loads yet though. Got all the equipment just not installed all of it haha